Pad Pin Cap Rear Caliper

[Scoop171]

Please help...
The pad pin cap for the rear caliper is on so tight that as I try to remove it, it is breaking and now the screwdriver is just slipping off.  I did use WD-40 on it and let it sit over night. Did not help. I've changed brake pads a few times on this bike and never had this problem. Last time I had her in the shop was to bleed the brake lines and replace with new fluid. I don't think the shop would remove the rear caliper to do this? But.... seeing I have not run into this problem before maybe they did? I'm not sure what to try next?
Scoop171   

[Ricky-D]

You're correct that the cap need not be removed to bleed the brakes.

First and foremost is the importance to use a correct fitting screwdriver.

Second is to use anti-seize on the cap when installing back, use anti-seize all the time.

Third is that WD-40 is not a very good use for seized threads. There are specific release agents such as PB-Blaster and Liquid Wrench which work very well.

You maybe should take it to the shop again to get the situation straightened out.

***

[biguglyman]

I've used an impact screwdriver with mixed results in similar situations.  The kind you set in the slot then tap with a hammer.  Might need to replace that screw once you get it out.

[hubcapsc]

I couldn't get the pin cap off on the first caliper I (was going to) rebuild.

A competent improviser could drill out the cap, but I just goobered up the caliper.

Calipers can be had from pinwall for about $30... black rear calipers are for Interstates,
Interstates have different rear calipers than STD/Tourer. Some people try to sell
calipers for lots more than $30 on ebay, don't be discouraged if the 1st one you
find is priced crazy...

I always use anti-seize on the caps, never had a problem since.

A well-fitting screwdriver and a strategy for putting some non-yielding force
on the whole thing while you're removing the cap is good... this picture shows
me getting the pin out, but the idea transfers to the cap...



-Mike

[Ricky-D]

Good picture!  There's the cap laying on the floor.

I always like to leave the caliper on the bike to remove the cap but have to be sure to brace the bike so I don't shove it over.  This way I can see better to keep the screwdriver in proper alignment.

I use a square shank screwdriver and a small open end wrench to do the turning force. It allows me to concentrate totally on keeping the blade of the screwdriver firmly in the slot. I mean to push as hard as I can on the screwdriver.

It cannot be emphasized enough that a properly fitting screwdriver is a must need item for this operation.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

+1 on the properly fitting driver.  I made one custom fit square ground....works great.  Also +2 on removing the cap and loosening the pin while the caliper is on the bike.  Also use anti-sieze on the cap when putting it back on

One last thing...(for this cap)  always give a couple taps with a small hammer on the handle of the screwdiver if it feels real tight.  This will give you a better chance at breaking it free without breaking it

[Scoop171]

Thanks everyone,

    Reading the replies I see my problem started by not using anti-sieze the last time I changed out the pads, and to add to my learning curve here I started out not using the properly fitted driver. I did go out and buy one but the damage was already done. Learning the hard way I guess. Good news is "it won't happen again" 

[Curley Wolf]

Currently in process.  Got rears done last night.  Used impact screwdriver on caps.  Real problem on front with pad PIN---could not get it out and rounded inside hex on bolt. Tried screw extractor and broke it off.  Had pre-drilled for extractor through threaded part of pin head past depth of threaded portion of caliper.Screw extractor broke but wider portion of extractor broke out and extracted drilled-out threaded part of pin    Ended up hacksawing pin in two next to brake pad metal and pushing unthreaded end out to inside.  Then used punch to knock out remaining portion of threaded part. Thank God that the hollowed-out, threaded part of pin came out leaving caliper threads useable.  I, too, will use anti-seize putting them back.

[John Schmidt]

For some good penetrating fluid instead of WD40, mix some acetone and ATF....50/50, in a small squeeze bottle. Works better than many commercial penetrants.

[Ricky-D]

WD40 is probably the least effective as a penetrating fluid.

That's because it isn't a penetrating fluid. And it isn't a lubricant either.

Try PB Blaster or one of the popular penetrating fluids.

They work!

***

[GOOSE]

TRY USING CRC BRAND .... "FREEZE OFF".  YOU SPRAY IT ON BOLT .... IT FREEZES IT CAUSING IT TO SHRINK DOWN, AND THE PENETRATING LUBRICANT CAN NOW GET IN AND DO IT'S WORK.  WORKS REALLY GOOD.

[da prez]

  Wether a phillips , standard or an allen head. A little valve grinding compound
(or a drop of oil with grinding dust) will increase the bite or grab of a worn out fastner. The other (one of many) trick is to tap (hit) on it several times to shock it. This will most times loosen it up.

                                         da prez