Okay,, She was running last week!!!!! Not now!

[rmrc51]

She won't start!! Sounds like she wants to kick over, but doesn't. Had her running two weeks ago and yes there's fresh gas in the tank. I'm no mechanic like most of you are. I have the battery of a trickle charge now to make up for the drain I must have done when trying to start her. If it doesn't start later,,, I guess she'll just sit until I can get it picked up and brought to a dealer.

[Bagger John - #3785]

First step - got gas in bowls?

Second step - pull any two plugs, re-connect to plug boots...lay threaded ends on a conducting metal surface then crank engine with starter. Got spark?

[rmrc51]

First step - got gas in bowls?

Second step - pull any two plugs, re-connect to plug boots...lay threaded ends on a conducting metal surface then crank engine with starter. Got spark?

I have no idea how to check for gas in the bowls. That's why she'll probably have to wait for the dealer. I don't mind doing some basic checks, but I'm not going to start dismantling her. Just recently put an IS tank on her with a no vacuum Pingel petcock. Yes, the petcock was closed. I didn't leave it in the on position. And as I mentioned, she ran fine after the tank was put on two weeks ago.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I have no idea how to check for gas in the bowls.

Look at the carbs - at the bottom of each float bowl is a drain screw. Pick one from each side of the bike...take a screwdriver and open the drain screws 3/4 turn or so. Does gas run out of the carb drain tube? That tube is located at the rear of the engine and will discharge to the right side of the bike...

[rmrc51]

I have no idea how to check for gas in the bowls.

Look at the carbs - at the bottom of each float bowl is a drain screw. Pick one from each side of the bike...take a screwdriver and open the drain screws 3/4 turn or so. Does gas run out of the carb drain tube? That tube is located at the rear of the engine and will discharge to the right side of the bike...

I'll check that later and report back here. Thanks and please excuse my frustration. Seems the older I get, the less patience I have! Probably wind up as some crotchety old PIA! If I'm not there already! lol

[Chrisj CMA]

back to the original problem...........engine turning over but not firing is a classic sign of a weak battery. 

Try jumpstarting to your car (CAR MOTOR OFF!) if it starts it probably just a dying battery.

[rmrc51]

back to the original problem...........engine turning over but not firing is a classic sign of a weak battery. 

Try jumpstarting to your car (CAR MOTOR OFF!) if it starts it probably just a dying battery.

If it is a weak battery, what is the best replacement to get?

[Bagger John - #3785]

If it is a weak battery, what is the best replacement to get?

OEM Yuasa.

[MP]

+1 on Yousa.
MP

[rmrc51]

I had the Battery tender on her until the light was green. Tried starting again and this time she almost caught on the first try. After that it was the same scenario. A slight effort and then just the starter turning the engine.

Here's a question. If a battery can take a full charge, can it still not have enough power or be too weak to ignite the fuel?

I have no idea how old this battery is so I'm going to pick up a new one tomorrow and keep my finders crossed. If that doesn't work I'll have to wait to get her to Honda. Only problem there is how to get the trike up on the trailer with no power! 

[Chrisj CMA]

the answer is yes it can appear to take  a full charge and have 12-13Volts and still lack the amps (cranking power) to power the ignition.  Sounds to me like its just a bad battery.  Make sure the new one gets a full charge as well before putting into service

[R J]

I had the Battery tender on her until the light was green. Tried starting again and this time she almost caught on the first try. After that it was the same scenario. A slight effort and then just the starter turning the engine.

Here's a question. If a battery can take a full charge, can it still not have enough power or be too weak to ignite the fuel?

I have no idea how old this battery is so I'm going to pick up a new one tomorrow and keep my finders crossed. If that doesn't work I'll have to wait to get her to Honda. Only problem there is how to get the trike up on the trailer with no power! 

Before you go any further, do as suggested up above.   JUMP START it from your car or truck, make sure the jumping from vehicle is not running.   Sounds like you got enough ump to spin it but not enough for that last little tug to send her on her way running....

Nuff said......    Report back.......

[Thunderbolt]

Oem Yuasa.

[BonS]

If I remember right, you added a Pingle, quick disconnect and fuel loop to your bike? Did you also add a fuel filter or 12 volt valve? Is your fuel tank full or near empty at this time? I suffered from too little fuel flow because of too much flow resistance and low fuel in my tank so my bike was fuel starved and wouldn't start or barely started. Sound familiar? Maybe it's not your battery. The Pingle flows great but the addition of too much stuff along with a low fuel level can be a problem.

[rmrc51]

If I remember right, you added a Pingle, quick disconnect and fuel loop to your bike? Did you also add a fuel filter or 12 volt valve? Is your fuel tank full or near empty at this time? I suffered from too little fuel flow because of too much flow resistance and low fuel in my tank so my bike was fuel starved and wouldn't start or barely started. Sound familiar? Maybe it's not your battery. The Pingle flows great but the addition of too much stuff along with a low fuel level can be a problem.

I did add the Pingle (non vacuum) and the quick disconnect with the Fuel loop. But haven't added anything else. Right now my fuel gauge is showing a half tank. Just having a half of a tank of gas really shouldn't cause a fuel starving situation, should it?

[BonS]

If I remember right, you added a Pingle, quick disconnect and fuel loop to your bike? Did you also add a fuel filter or 12 volt valve? Is your fuel tank full or near empty at this time? I suffered from too little fuel flow because of too much flow resistance and low fuel in my tank so my bike was fuel starved and wouldn't start or barely started. Sound familiar? Maybe it's not your battery. The Pingle flows great but the addition of too much stuff along with a low fuel level can be a problem.

I did add the Pingle (non vacuum) and the quick disconnect with the Fuel loop. But haven't added anything else. Right now my fuel gauge is showing a half tank. Just having a half of a tank of gas really shouldn't cause a fuel starving situation, should it?

No.

[BonS]

Any chance your fuel loop is kinked or the quick disconnect is not fully inserted? (Sorry, it still sounds like it could be a fuel flow problem.)

I would do as others have suggested and locate the drain screw (bottom of the carb bowl) of one of the front most carbs and open it a turn or two. Catch any fuel that runs out of the drain tube on the bottom of your bike. I'd let it run for a bit to verify that you have fuel flow from your fuel tank/petcock/loop/disconnect lines. Close the drain screw and try starting again if you were getting good fuel flow. If you don't get good flow then suspect something in your fuel setup.

[rmrc51]

Any chance your fuel loop is kinked or the quick disconnect is not fully inserted? (Sorry, it still sounds like it could be a fuel flow problem.)

I would do as others have suggested and locate the drain screw (bottom of the carb bowl) of one of the front most carbs and open it a turn or two. Catch any fuel that runs out of the drain tube on the bottom of your bike. I'd let it run for a bit to verify that you have fuel flow from your fuel tank/petcock/loop/disconnect lines. Close the drain screw and try starting again if you were getting good fuel flow. If you don't get good flow then suspect something in your fuel setup.

I'll have to try that. I'll look at the manual to make sure I know where the drain screw is. I tried following the fuel like to see if there was any kinks but I don't believe so. And I can see how it seems like a fuel starving situation. If you leave the bike alone for awhile, the very first time you try and start her, she almost catches. After that, barely.

[BonS]

I think that this is probably the easiest thing you can do on a Valkyrie: When you look at any of the carbs you'll see the brass (slot head) screw at the bottom-most point of each of the carbs. The screws are designed to be easily accessed without removing any other parts. All six carbs connect together via rubber tubing and drain out of one tube at the bottom-rear of the engine. If it were me, I'd drain at least a cup or two of fuel and then retighten (not too hard) the drain screw and try starting the engine again.

[rmrc51]

I think that this is probably the easiest thing you can do on a Valkyrie: When you look at any of the carbs you'll see the brass (slot head) screw at the bottom-most point of each of the carbs. The screws are designed to be easily accessed without removing any other parts. All six carbs connect together via rubber tubing and drain out of one tube at the bottom-rear of the engine. If it were me, I'd drain at least a cup or two of fuel and then retighten (not too hard) the drain screw and try starting the engine again.

Should I drain all six carbs?

[BonS]

Draining just one will prove that you have fuel flow. I like to drain the right front because it shows you have fuel flow at the farthest point from the tank. If one carb or another isn't getting fuel the engine will still start but run flat (the exhaust pipe of the dead cylinders will be cold). I've seen four of six cylinders get fuel with bad fuel flow but the engine still started. I've also had all six starved and of course the engine just dies. Good luck!

[rmrc51]

Draining just one will prove that you have fuel flow. I like to drain the right front because it shows you have fuel flow at the farthest point from the tank. If one carb or another isn't getting fuel the engine will still start but run flat (the exhaust pipe of the dead cylinders will be cold). I've seen four of six cylinders get fuel with bad fuel flow but the engine still started. I've also had all six starved and of course the engine just dies. Good luck!

Gotcha. Will do tomorrow. I'll report back. Thanks.

[rmrc51]

Okay, I opened at least two of the carbs and they both allow gas to flow out through the drain tube. Now the rate at which the fuel flows is a slow small steady stream. I'm assuming that's ok and it's not supposed to be any heavier. Am I correct?

[MP]

One should do.  Let it run for a bit, to check flow from the tank.
You can have a bad battery, even if batt tender turns green and says OK.  The battery is full, but it has no capacity.
1.  Check fuel flow.
2. Put a new Yousa on it.
MP

[rmrc51]

One should do.  Let it run for a bit, to check flow from the tank.
You can have a bad battery, even if batt tender turns green and says OK.  The battery is full, but it has no capacity.
1.  Check fuel flow.
2. Put a new Yousa on it.
MP

On my way to pick up a new Yuasa battery now.

[BonS]

One should do.  Let it run for a bit, to check flow from the tank.
You can have a bad battery, even if batt tender turns green and says OK.  The battery is full, but it has no capacity.
1.  Check fuel flow.
2. Put a new Yousa on it.
MP

I agree.

A small stream from the carbs is fine but let it accumulate by a cup or two before shutting off. This drains the bowl and proves that it will refill from the tank. If you have gas then it's back to the electrical (battery). Consider your battery to be an ever-shrinking electrical gas tank. The battery tender may say it's full but the capacity may have shrunk  so much that it can no longer hold enough charge to keep the voltage up high enough to make the ignition work properly.

[rmrc51]

Just brought the new Yuasa battery home. (Gezz they're a bit expensive!) They filled it and told me to leave it on a 2 AMP charge for 10 hours. So,, I'll guess I'll have it installed tomorrow.

[MP]

Let us know!  Inquiring minds want to know.
Did you drain a carb bowl?
MP

[R J]

Just brought the new Yuasa battery home. (Gezz they're a bit expensive!) They filled it and told me to leave it on a 2 AMP charge for 10 hours. So,, I'll guess I'll have it installed tomorrow.

One question.

Did you ever try to jump the bike from another vehicle before you went out and plopped down a pile of money?

If it would of started on a jump you wouldn't of had to fart around with the carb bowls.

Do the obvious things 1st, then get into more detail.....
1.  Try jumping it.  Starts, go get a battery.
2.  NO start, then see if you have fuel, if yes
3.  Do you have spark,
4.  Keep performing a different suggestion till you find the problem......

[rmrc51]

Okay.

I drained at least two cups of gas from the bowls, put the new battery in and this time she,,, "AMOST" started on the first try. She actually did start but it lasted only 3 seconds. After that it was back to the same scenario. Cranking with hardly any indication of it trying to start again.

I'm just about ready to throw in the towel and let it sit until someone can figure out how to get it up on a trailer to bring it to the dealer, or just sell it as is!!!!! I have no patience for this crap! 

[PharmBoy]

After reading all this I am surprised that no one has asked about what position the choke handle is in and does the bike normally require choking to start.  I personally feel that the new battery will solve the problem, but some bikes require choking to start and some do not.  My bike required choking to start till I installed #38 slow jets, but the choke hasn't been touched since then...JTL

[R J]

After reading all this I am surprised that no one has asked about what position the choke handle is in and does the bike normally require choking to start.  I personally feel that the new battery will solve the problem, but some bikes require choking to start and some do not.  My bike required choking to start till I installed #38 slow jets, but the choke hasn't been touched since then...JTL

I almost asked that same question back at the start, but I gave him more credit and didn't.

[rmrc51]

I've tried setting the choke at full, half way and no choke at all. It makes no difference. When the choke is not set at all there is absolutely no indication that she wants to start. In the past, I've always set the choke when she's cold.

Is there a priest in the house for an exsorsisim??? 

[rmrc51]

Latest Update on the possessed Valk.

She STARTED!!!!!! The only difference I did this time was to give her gas on the initial first start. I kept the RPM's a bit high so as not to let her stall. I have no idea if she would've stalled or not. After a minute or so I let off on the throttle and let her sit at idle. She stalled a few minutes later and started right up again.

In a effort NOT to let this happen again I simply won't turn her off!! yeah right!

Now I'm wondering what the hell caused this in the first place? I'll try starting again tonight and tomorrow.

[R J]

It sounds like you are not getting full choke.....

Pull the lever down and then give it some more push, it should lay at a 45* from off to be fully on.........  Don't worry, you aren't the 1st one to do this.  I did it when I 1st got my bike, lucky for me one of the Honda shop Tech's lived next door then.   He came over, pushed the choke full open and she fired the 1st time over.....  Yeah, I was embarrassed.   

If you let it set for long spells put some Seafoam in it before ya let it set.....

[rmrc51]

It sounds like you are not getting full choke.....

Pull the lever down and then give it some more push, it should lay at a 45* from off to be fully on.........  Don't worry, you aren't the 1st one to do this.  I did it when I 1st got my bike, lucky for me one of the Honda shop Tech's lived next door then.   He came over, pushed the choke full open and she fired the 1st time over.....  Yeah, I was embarrassed.   

If you let it set for long spells put some Seafoam in it before ya let it set.....

R J. I see what you mean! I was just pushing the choke to the point of resistance. It does go a bit beyond that if forced and does look like it makes the 45* angle you mentioned from the off position. When forced to the maximum, I can hear a sound from the attached linkage. As if it's closing fully. I could be wrong in that assumption.

I'll fool with starting her again after she's cold and set the choke to the (new) maximum as you suggested. I'll report back.

And to everyone who has contributed to this post, my sincere thanks for all of your suggestions and my apologies for my lack of patience!! Ever hear that saying "I'm getting too old for this crap"?  Seems like it's applying to me more and more lately!

[BonS]

I could just CHOKE you!   

[rmrc51]

I could just CHOKE you!   

  I bet you could!!!!!!! 

[Grandpot]

I made the same mistake with my choke when I first got my I/S.  After the good folks on this board straightened me out, the bike started right away.

I am curious about your situation.  I only need to use the choke if the temperature is below 40 degrees F.  This time of year in South Carolina I don't have that problem.  Do you live in the mountains?

At what temperature to the others in this thread require using the choke?

[BonS]

I will say that with my original #35 slow jets I needed the choke at all temperatures and had to drive several miles to get off of it and then a bit at a time. Recently, I went to #38 slow jets and haven't yet dialed in my idle mixture screws. Because of the fuel-rich condition with the idle mixture screws I don't use choke at all. She starts right up hot or cold. I mention this because the cleanliness and adjustments of the slow speed circuits of the carburetors are the big variable when it comes to needing enriching while starting and running cold.

I'm glad, rmrc51, you got your bike running without going to the time and expense of trailering and paying the dealer to help you out. (I remember, many years ago, that I went through the same discovery process and spinning the engine round n' round when she was cold!)