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Author Topic: teflon tape on brake lines?  (Read 1968 times)
hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« on: August 16, 2012, 05:13:27 PM »


The manual doesn't mention anything (that I found) about the threaded connection
that hooks #4 to #2 and #3... just screw them together? Use teflon tape? Something else?



-Mike
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Joe Hummer
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VRCC #25677 VRCC Missouri State Representative

Arnold, MO


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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2012, 05:20:17 PM »

I believe those are flanged fittings on that cross pipe.  No need for anything on the threads. 

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2012, 05:24:40 PM »

Those are flared brake fittings: No tape needed.
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2012, 05:38:41 PM »


Thanks  cooldude
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2012, 08:26:58 PM »

A misconception is that Teflon tape is used for sealing. It might seal, better than bear threads, but it is used for what Teflon is best for, slipping.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

valky1500
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Posts: 206


MI


« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2012, 08:54:54 PM »

and the slipping of course relates more to the proper tightening of and without the over torqueing as in stripped threads...

moreso than the loosening or untightening of at a later date...

and is primarily used and required for the joining of water and gas piping for obvious reasons. Wink
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Tropic traveler
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Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.

Silver Springs, Florida


« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2012, 06:40:26 PM »

Teflon tape is used for pipe threads which are devoid of an actual seat. Pipe threads seal by interference fit with no seat. I've never seen pipe threads used in a hydralic braking application.
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jimmytee
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Elizabethtown,KY


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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2012, 07:49:39 PM »

Not seen on brake applications, but pipe threads in other hyraulic applications. Actual pipe threads are tapered cut and the idea that teflon allows for proper tightening by its " slippery" characteristics is true as pipe dope has the same functions and usually contains teflon. There is a sealing action though with teflon and pipe dope or sealants as can be verified by the fact that there are different types of teflon tapes and pipe dopes dependant on what the joint is sealing against. If the mechanics of the threads were enough on their own ,then a can of WD40 and a pipe wrench would be all that is needed to put together pipe threads. Smiley
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"Go sell crazy somewhere else,we're all stocked up"
hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2012, 03:43:39 PM »

They're flared alright, but HOLY COW, was it hard to get the left one in the picture (right
side of motorcycle) to seal... I hope it is sealed now... I cranked down on it, still leaked, cranked
down on it, still leaked... finally thought it was good last night, and it was wet with brake
fluid again this morning - so I cranked down on it again, I don't see how I could get it any tighter...
I just checked, it is still dry... if you ever replace or loosen this part, protect your front fender - I used a
towel backed up by a trash bag... I didn't have the protector on the fender last night because I
thought I was done, apparently there wasn't enough fluid leakage to form drips, just to make
the joint wet, hallelujah...



While I was bleeding, I noticed the little bootie that protects the guts of the master cylinder
was no good... I could have ordered just the bootie, but I ordered a master cylinder rebuild
kit, so I guess I'll be bleeding again when it comes... it doesn't look hard (in the manual)
to rebuild the front brake master cylinder, I hope not  coolsmiley



My front brakes have always seemed pretty good, but I don't have anything to compare
them to... the couple of times I've had to emergency stop, they made me feel
confident. But I've (always? lately?) wished they engaged sooner... I'll have to
see what some other Valkyries front brakes feel like at the Meet In The Middle Ride...



-Mike
« Last Edit: August 19, 2012, 07:42:28 PM by hubcapsc » Logged

hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2012, 06:19:02 PM »


The front brake master cylinder rebuild kit came today, so I installed it. I think the brakes
feel pretty good now, I plan to ride over to Stanley Steamer's house tomorrow, I'll
know for sure then.

The seal in the rebuild kit seemed like it was going to be impossible to put on the piston,
so I just man-handled it on there... seems good...



I have the tools specified in the manual for removal and installation of front wheel bearings...

We're going to learn how to use them on Stanley's bike  cooldude

-Mike
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donaldcc
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Posts: 2956


Palm Desert, CA


« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2012, 09:27:04 PM »


  I replaced my brake and clutch lines with Galfers about 4-5 months ago with most of work by BigMac and me assisting. had same problem with left fitting.  tightened, loosened, tightened.  still very small leak.  on close inspection, the female receptacle was slightly scored.  teflon tape solved it, with a little smoothing with Dave's dremel, but seemed like a temporary solution.  Galfer replaced the part (great customer service) and solved the problem.  teflon is a "temporary" fix.

  on a side note, the Galfers made a huge difference.  clutch and brakes engage immediately with pressure and hard braking seems great.  a great mod for me.
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Don
Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2012, 08:04:55 AM »

The problem using teflon tape on hydraulic brake systems if the possibility of pieces of the tape becoming lodged in the tiny orifices resulting in brake failure.

I have never seen a recommendation to use teflon tape in a hydraulic brake system. The recommendation has always been specifically to not use the tape.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #12 on: August 26, 2012, 06:35:43 PM »


Back from Steamer's house... brakes work GREAT.

Bearing tools worked great too. The removal tool has a part that expands
inside the bearing where the axle would be and a part that wedges the
expanding part.

The expanding part goes in the bearing on one side of the wheel, and
the wedging part goes in from the other side of the wheel. A couple
of good whacks to get the expanding part seated good, and a couple more
to make the the bearing pop out...





-Mike


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