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Author Topic: Motorcycle jack...  (Read 7658 times)
cashman
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Posts: 206


Goshen Indiana


« on: August 31, 2012, 11:16:20 AM »

I have never had a motorcycle jack before, but I think with the valkyries size and weight, I should get one. 

Any tips or recommendations?
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F7daved
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Detroit


« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2012, 12:10:39 PM »

PIT BULL  THE BEST
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2012, 01:12:58 PM »

Depends on how deep yer wallet is. I've got the yellow one from Harbor Freight. With their coupon it can be had in the $70-$80.00 range. Lots of choices out there. This was mine. RIDE SAFE.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2012, 01:42:57 PM »

1.  Buy whichever motorcycle lift you feel best suits your budget and requirements for quality.  Excepting #2 below, the Valkyrie doesn't have any specific requirements of the lift that wouldn't generally apply to any other heavy cruiser/touring bike.
2. Buy or build a Valkyrie specific lift adapter.  Search "lift adapter" on this board and you'll find many options.

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cashman
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Posts: 206


Goshen Indiana


« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2012, 02:22:56 PM »

Ok, I just ordered the adapter, now to look into the jack!  I have a habit of going overboard, so I really appreciate all of your feedback!
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dreamaker
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Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2012, 02:42:19 PM »

I went this route for my bike, I use to use the center lift with an adapter and after buying the Kendon I never use the center any more.  I love this lift, makes my life simpler.


Kendon Cruiser Lift TR part # 77-5482powered by Aeva
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97BLKVALK
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VRCC#26021

Detroit Lakes, MN


« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2012, 03:06:40 PM »

I bought the lift adapter too, started with a low profile lift, I'm keeping an eye if I can find this lift on sale or ebay.  Have see it used and man can it get the bike up in the air and still incredibly stable.

http://www.norcoind.com/norco/products/model/00777D.html

I also tend to go overboard too   cooldude uglystupid2

Ride Safe

Michael
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14802


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2012, 03:54:39 PM »

I went this route for my bike, I use to use the center lift with an adapter and after buying the Kendon I never use the center any more.  I love this lift, makes my life simpler.


Kendon Cruiser Lift TR part # 77-5482


Ok, But, what holds the bike up when you need to remove the rear wheel?
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dreamaker
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Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2012, 04:54:10 PM »

I went this route for my bike, I use to use the center lift with an adapter and after buying the Kendon I never use the center any more.  I love this lift, makes my life simpler.


Kendon Cruiser Lift TR part # 77-5482


Ok, But, what holds the bike up when you need to remove the rear wheel?


If you watch the video you will see a little jack under the frame.  I like it because I can get under the bike, and it goes up about 34" so I don't have to kneel. It looks narrow but is the same with and length as HF lift table but you are not lifting an extra 200lbs in the air. And it stores nicely in the corner.

« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 04:59:20 PM by dreamaker » Logged
sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2012, 05:17:42 PM »

I have a Dunwell which is no longer made but is similar in quality to a Pitt Bull. I've used several lifts and the best low cost jack is Craftsman's $200 aluminum lift. It's very stable and can be had for a better price when Sears has tool sales.
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Earl in Pensacola
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Posts: 556


« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2012, 05:34:11 PM »

Chris--Can you just see me using the ENGINE to run that 750 lb. phatlady onto the Kendon lift ramp?  Can you say, drop it off the other side? I have the yellow freight harbor one and it works for me.   Truth be told, if I could have afforded the one I would like, it would have been one of those WIDE types.  You can ride the bike onto it. 
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cashman
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Posts: 206


Goshen Indiana


« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2012, 07:01:24 PM »

Man, alot of good ideas.  My main objective is to be able to get the rear wheel off to preform maintainance and cleaning.  I would really love to get a drive on platform that has detachable front and rear panels.  But i need to take one step at a time!
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R J MILES
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Posts: 37


« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2012, 07:09:21 PM »

Don't ride any bike onto a lift table!! To be halfway safe , the table better be at least 5ft. wide.  Tables can be 4-6 in. above the floor. If ya don't get frt. tire locked in place, over ya go if there is not enought table to put your foot onto to keep it upright. Your leg will 4-6in. too short to touch the floor!! Try to have a buddy handy even when pushing a bike onto a table. Also have table solid to floor so it will not move when loading or unloading. Better safe than sorry!     Ride on!     Fuzzy
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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2012, 11:00:20 PM »

I have the Craftsman lift.  The red one.  You can usually find it on sale at Sears for 89 bucks if you wait for the sale.  This one....

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950190000P?&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=L2

It's been a great jack/lift.  The bottle has started to bleed down real slow, but if you use the stop/lock on it, it's not a problem keeping the bike up in the air.  

It's also a good idea to buy yourself one or two automotive type jack stands.  There'll be times when you'll want to place one or two under the engine's crash bar.....they'll make the bike rock solid that way.

My Valk on my Craftsman..... 



« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 11:12:23 PM by BF » Logged

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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2012, 11:06:14 PM »

I went this route for my bike, I use to use the center lift with an adapter and after buying the Kendon I never use the center any more.  I love this lift, makes my life simpler.


Kendon Cruiser Lift TR part # 77-5482


Ok, But, what holds the bike up when you need to remove the rear wheel?


If you watch the video you will see a little jack under the frame.  I like it because I can get under the bike, and it goes up about 34" so I don't have to kneel. It looks narrow but is the same with and length as HF lift table but you are not lifting an extra 200lbs in the air. And it stores nicely in the corner.




The space saving aspect of the Kendon is appealing....especially for folks like me with a small one car garage......but gee willikers Bat Man.....that thing is freakishly narrow and would scare the crap out of me with a Valk on it.  It might be great for you, but personally, I'd want more table on my table lift.  If for no other reason than to have a place to lay my tools and stuff while working on the bike.  More like these Harbor Freight tables......





« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 11:16:26 PM by BF » Logged

I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

Bone
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Posts: 1596


« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2012, 03:48:51 AM »

BF I have the Craftsman Jack and mine started to bleed down the 2nd or 3rd year. The owners handbook says to change the hydraulic oil every year. I have never done that in any bottle jacks I own but bought some oil. The oil change stopped the bleed-down. Bought the oil at Sears but saw some at Advanced Auto later.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2012, 05:05:44 AM »

BF I have the Craftsman Jack and mine started to bleed down the 2nd or 3rd year. The owners handbook says to change the hydraulic oil every year. I have never done that in any bottle jacks I own but bought some oil. The oil change stopped the bleed-down. Bought the oil at Sears but saw some at Advanced Auto later.

WOW.....I bought my sears Jack from my neighbor (no owners manual) I have had it for 7 years now, never knew to change the oil......has no problems bleeding down........maybe I should change it though..........

What weight...Regular or synthetic?  lol
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jabster
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Posts: 87


« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2012, 07:03:21 AM »

I just got the craftsman lift. It's not bad. It does tend to bleed a bit. Other problem I've had is that the right lock bar gets jammed. I need to lift the bike high up and pull the lick bar out to get it loose. May have to make a spacer for it.

John
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Bone
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« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2012, 07:57:03 AM »



See the price tag ?

This is Sears top of the line they don't specify weight
or grade for security reasons  Smiley
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dreamaker
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Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2012, 08:31:20 AM »

Hey BF !!     Well I thought for a while before I bought the Kendon, but  far as narrow it is an illusion. What is important is the base size of the lift that is  contacting the floor, it may be wider then most platform type lifts. To me with those platform type lifts I am just lifting the flood higher, and still can't get under the bike. Most lifts push forward to lift and the Kendon is like a scissor action which we know that triangles are the strongest structures. Far as riding the bike on the lift, I made a wooden side platforms which I slide out after riding on and off the lift. Kendon has accessories like a tool tray that clips in to the lift for tools. I tie down the bike and shake it and it is stable.
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Fritz The Cat
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"The mountains are calling and I must go."


« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2012, 09:34:34 AM »

I've got the yellow lift from Harbor Freight. I've had it for years and never had a problem with it. If I remember correctly, it was on sale for 50 bucks. Don't really use one enough to justify spending big bucks on one.
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Brian
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Monroe, NC


« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2012, 05:57:02 PM »

I have had no problems with the red steel lift from Sears. I always use the lift locks and jack stands under the engine guard so I have no idea if it bleeds down. Done too much work laying on the floor working on cars to ever trust a hydraulic jack to stay up. IMHO. Safety First.

FYI. Sears supports our troops.
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dreamaker
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Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2012, 06:46:55 AM »

I think that we can all agree on is our needs and environment are all different.  I bought the yellow HF lift and made the steel lift adapter, which I hated doing the balancing act on my back to attach it to the frame.  One event I was focused on taking off the rear wheel and didn’t pay attention and the bike almost went over. I then bought a lift similar to the Norco that HF sold and added a detachable base extension, but I still had to use the lift adaptor.  Had issues because I could mainly use one side and had to take my floorboard off on the lift side, could get under but not convent for me and had storage issues.  So I decided to go for a drive on lift.  What I looked for was maximum accessibility, space saving, structure and simplicity.  Now getting older it is harder to lay on the ground, so I started looking at platform lifts.  Most of them to me was like lifting up the floor and still had an issue getting under the bike.  Also the way it lifts.  I was at a mechanics place and he had a push forward style platform lift and as he was lifting he blew a seal in the cylinder and it came down like a 747 luckily the bike was strapped down.  So I thought that the lift method was over working the cylinder, so I figured that the scissor lift method would be better.  That is when I found the Kendon and it gave me everything I wanted.  Now people mention price of a lift but then they will spend $200 on some fake velocity stacks and go cheap on a lift that supports their baby in the air. I can’t figure!!   But that is me!! I look at it this way, it is cheaper to pay a few buck up front otherwise it my cost you allot more in the future, it’s worth it to me. Each to their own!!


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dr.danh
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Posts: 139


« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2012, 07:24:23 AM »

i use this setup with the Larian jack from Sams. Had both wheels of same time. Very stable and safe. Heres the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOOK-VALKYRIE-HONDA-ORIG-RIVCO-JACK-ADAPTER-Save-Money-with-ea-use-/170796732135?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c4474ee7&vxp=mtr
« Last Edit: September 02, 2012, 07:33:45 AM by dr.danh » Logged
Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #24 on: September 02, 2012, 09:27:51 AM »

I think that we can all agree on is our needs and environment are all different.  I bought the yellow HF lift and made the steel lift adapter, which I hated doing the balancing act on my back to attach it to the frame.  One event I was focused on taking off the rear wheel and didn’t pay attention and the bike almost went over. I then bought a lift similar to the Norco that HF sold and added a detachable base extension, but I still had to use the lift adaptor.  Had issues because I could mainly use one side and had to take my floorboard off on the lift side, could get under but not convent for me and had storage issues.  So I decided to go for a drive on lift.  What I looked for was maximum accessibility, space saving, structure and simplicity.  Now getting older it is harder to lay on the ground, so I started looking at platform lifts.  Most of them to me was like lifting up the floor and still had an issue getting under the bike.  Also the way it lifts.  I was at a mechanics place and he had a push forward style platform lift and as he was lifting he blew a seal in the cylinder and it came down like a 747 luckily the bike was strapped down.  So I thought that the lift method was over working the cylinder, so I figured that the scissor lift method would be better.  That is when I found the Kendon and it gave me everything I wanted.  Now people mention price of a lift but then they will spend $200 on some fake velocity stacks and go cheap on a lift that supports their baby in the air. I can’t figure!!   But that is me!! I look at it this way, it is cheaper to pay a few buck up front otherwise it my cost you allot more in the future, it’s worth it to me. Each to their own!!





I have to agree with you dreamaker. This bike is too expensive to repair if it falls over if improperly lifting not too mention if it falls over on the owner. I have sinced picked up a used HF table lift and installed their wheel chock on it, I know the previous owner. I strap the bike in place even using the jack stands under the engine guards before raising the table just in case the cylinder seal goes out. Even this table uses a long solid steel rod to hold it up instead of the hydraulics. Working safely should always come first.
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Former BMW Guy
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Aut viam inveniam aut faciam.

Apple Valley, MN


« Reply #25 on: September 03, 2012, 06:48:52 AM »

I have this one from Northern Tool for $79. Watch for coupons.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326249_200326249?isSearch=148721

I also ordered this adapter:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170854771001?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And just to be on the safe side I got a 4 pack of tie-down straps from Walmart for $9

Have fun!!

JP
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Motorcycling is not, of itself, inherently dangerous.
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BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #26 on: September 16, 2012, 01:21:14 PM »



See the price tag ?

This is Sears top of the line they don't specify weight
or grade for security reasons  Smiley



Update:  Thanks Bone!   cooldude

Finally got around to changing out my bottle jack oil yesterday on my Craftsman lift.  The lift works like new again.  Used the oil from Sears like Bone said to do. 

Removed the bottle jack from the lift to drain and refill.  Kind of a pain in the rear, but it's worth the effort. 

Again, thanks Bone for the tip.   cooldude
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I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

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