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Author Topic: Alternator advice  (Read 1226 times)
Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« on: August 31, 2012, 01:35:01 PM »

Having read the posts about replacing this, is it really that bad?  I've done most all my own maintenance on my fatlady, and I have the manual with pics and procedures
and am a little apprehensive about tackling it by  myself.  Any of you other Kansas board folks done it?  My original has 106000 miles on it, but lately have noticed a voltage drop while running my 70 watts of driving lights.  Turning them off makes it go away, but I didn't have to do that before.  Usually 30 minutes of highway riding I have to turn them off for awhile.  battery test at Idle is 12.4 volts, 13.9 at 2500 rpm.  I have a rebuilt spare in the box that I carry on trips,  I think I should change it and rebuild the original for a spare.  Input?  Hoser
 
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2012, 01:50:28 PM »


Having read the posts about replacing this, is it really that bad?

No. Just remember that if it seems like it won't come out, or go back in, that it really will.
Don't get frustrated.

Pay a whole bunch of attention to how you get it out, and try to twist it back in the same way.

The little dampers might keep trying to fall out while you're putting it back in. I used a tiny
dab of oil on each damper to "glue" the dampers in place while I was struggling with the
alternator the one time me and Stanley Steamer replaced his, it sort of worked. I think
I'd use a tiny bit of RTV silicone gasket goo on each one if I do it again, I bet that would
stick those things up in there, and they'd come back out too if needed...

We took Stanley's out and back in twice, I think we decided after we got it in there that we
should have hooked the wires back to it first... its been a while...

But you can do it  cooldude

We taped up the center cover to keep from scratching it...

-Mike
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14802


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2012, 01:58:14 PM »

Valkyrie alternators need new brushes every once in a while....I would say 106K is right near the limit of brush life.  I change mine every 50K miles because its so easy to change them.  I remove the thing and open the casing, blow out the dust and check the bearings every 50K so why not put $5 worth of new brushes in there while Im at it.  My 130K Alternator is still running perfectly, however, it is now my spare.  I put new brushes in it a couple days ago and it took like 15 minutes after getting it opened up

Check this out:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,43997.0.html
« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 02:07:32 PM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005
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Posts: 13834


American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.

Beautiful east Tennessee ( GOD'S Country )


« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2012, 02:12:58 PM »

My ridin' bud Gordon ( Lucky 13 ) and I did some tradin' . I detailed his truck and he installed a brand new Goldwing alternator in my Interstate. Was'nt nothing wrong with mine however I was on two large group rides ( Britman's Memorial Ride and The Hillbilly Ride ) that had two alternators go out and I just wanted a new one for that reason.I helped Gordon ( somewhat  Roll Eyes ) and it was a bitch ( somewhat  Roll Eyes  )





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I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.
Hoser
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Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2012, 02:58:29 PM »

I think I'll give it a shot, I'll take off the center cover, I've done that before, it's not bad,  If the Kansas board calls a wrench party, I'll be there.  Usually am anyway.  Thanks for the tip on the silicone, Hubscaps.  Hoser   cooldude
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
raja
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Posts: 75


Snohomish WA


« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2012, 03:19:26 PM »

Hoser: I just took mine out of my IS. It's not too bad. Tip the rear up and inboard so the paddle end comes out first. Leave the wire harness on but remove the power cable. Install in reverse. Put the bike in 5th and bump the rear wheel so that the slots are vertical , like a plus sign. Make sure the dampers don't move, use a little oil or grease to to hold them in place. The stock alternator on the IS is only 40amps, I'm replacing it with a 65amp. I use heated riding gear. Sounds like you need a little extra juice also. Good luck and fear not Smiley
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CASABROKER
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Posts: 274



« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2012, 03:40:39 PM »

It's a pain in the ass,  It will either go in easy or there will be many expletives..  Let know how you vocabulary come out when finished..
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Russell Rice
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Posts: 253


I think I can, I think I can, I think I can!

Owasso, Oklahoma


« Reply #7 on: August 31, 2012, 03:56:41 PM »

Make sure you put about 3 to 5 layers of duck tape on the frame and the frame rails. That way you will not scratch it up. I would also advise to take the left side cover off and remove the screw holding the center cover on. cooldude
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3W-lonerider
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Posts: 1014

Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2012, 04:54:13 PM »

I think I'll give it a shot, I'll take off the center cover, I've done that before, it's not bad,  If the Kansas board calls a wrench party, I'll be there.  Usually am anyway.  Thanks for the tip on the silicone, Hubscaps.  Hoser   cooldude

i would not use RTV silicone..those dampners run in oil. that silicone comes off those dampners and gets into your oil pump..you'll know it. a film of grease would be a better option to hold those dampners in.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2012, 05:05:50 PM »


i would not use RTV silicone..those dampners run in oil. that silicone comes off those dampners and gets into your oil pump..you'll know it. a film of grease would be a better option to hold those dampners in.


Something to stick them in there that won't have any bad side effects... thanks for the correction cooldude

-Mike
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