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Author Topic: Replacing ignition switch  (Read 1840 times)
dreamchaser
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Posts: 273

Portland, Oregon


« on: August 31, 2012, 10:13:22 PM »

About a week ago someone tried to steal my bike.  The first thing they did was punch out the ignition lock.  They didn't see the Zena disk lock or the fork being locked, just left it there with the lights on..........idiots.  What are they going to do with a bike that heavy that is parked way back in a narrow spot against a curb? 

Anyway, I got a new lock.  Do I need to remove the gas tank to unplug old and plug in new?  I don't have a factory shop manual or a Clymers.  I can't see where it goes after it passes through the hanger that it is bolted to. (help)  I would just as soon not disassemble the whole Scoot just out of curiosity.  Man do I feel humble!
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JaysGone
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Posts: 467


Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2012, 04:51:19 AM »

Its been a while for me but.
I believe you take out 1 screw  and the chrome cover comes off.
Then there are 2 bolts or nuts holding on the ignition cyclinder to the frame.

There really are no diagrams in the OEM or Clymers books.
So it cant be that involved.
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2012, 05:11:20 AM »

page 1-24 (bottom illustration) in the Honda Service manual shows the ingition wiring location and routing.  Might be easier to access without the tank in the way.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2012, 05:18:24 AM »


The thing I remember (other than it is easy) is that you'll come to a point
(after the chrome cover is off?) where to need a giant torx-style driver
to continue...

I replaced my whole lockset so the keys would be the same... ((*&!! center cover... (*&(*&##
saddlebag locks  Smiley ...

-Mike
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2012, 08:41:09 AM »

You need to pull the tank.  The switch has a short pigtail with a connector that is retained by a clip on a cross member under the tank.  Its possible you could contort your hand enough to to go in from the left side near the petcock, but pulling the tank would be easier IMHO.  You can down load a manual on Dag's site.
-RP
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dreamchaser
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Posts: 273

Portland, Oregon


« Reply #5 on: September 01, 2012, 01:01:37 PM »

Thanks guys.  I feel much better now that I have a clue.

A special thanks to RP for the info on where to download the manual from, on line.  You have put my mind at ease on so-o-o-o-o many things.
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valky1500
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Posts: 206


MI


« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2012, 01:22:49 PM »

RP has obviously been married a long time
as any woman would know that stuff and if not
she would teach ya real fast.  Cheesy
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RP#62
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Gilbert, AZ


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« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2012, 06:37:54 PM »

RP has obviously been married a long time
as any woman would know that stuff and if not
she would teach ya real fast.  Cheesy

It will be 40 years next January.

-RP
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dreamchaser
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Posts: 273

Portland, Oregon


« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2012, 10:03:32 AM »

Rp, if it weren't for the tiny hands of my bride, I would still be trying to get the 3 hoses reconnected to the tank, and the spring clips back in place!  My meat hooks just don't fit in tight places.  I wanted to go back to the parts counter where I got the switch and slap him...."5 minute job.  Just take out 2 screws, unplug one switch and plug in the other & put the 2 screws back in & go for a ride."  He had to be kidding.  Anyway, Its back to using a key instead of a screwdriver, I have new and broader respect for my wifes abilities, and I have survived another learning experience on my bike, with the help of the guys here at VRCC.  Thank you all, Gary

Ps:  If anyone ever needs to ask for a blow by blow rundown on changing the ignition switch, just to save some guesswork, I'm here   uglystupid2 tickedoff Grin
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Madmike
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Posts: 837


Campbell River BC, Canada


« Reply #9 on: September 08, 2012, 05:02:07 PM »

I like those extra long 90° needle nose pliers for getting into tight areas. for small hoses and cannon plugs, starting nuts etc.
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2278

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2012, 06:28:41 AM »

I like those extra long 90° needle nose pliers for getting into tight areas. for small hoses and cannon plugs, starting nuts etc.

Also I found the "surgical clamp" things I got at Harbor Frieght works really well for tight spots.
They look like a scissor/plier combo, about 10" long, real thin and have a locking feature in the handle which once engaged you don't have to grip so tight. (this works good for clamping a coolant lines to prevent antifreeze loss when the water bottle is removed)
I have a straight pair and one that has a slight curve probably about 30 deg and they've both came in handy a few times, especially when removing/installing fuel/vacuum lines.
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
dreamchaser
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Posts: 273

Portland, Oregon


« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2012, 10:40:10 AM »

Thx. to Texas Bohemiam and Mad Mike for excellent Tool suggestions....I get hemostats today!
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2278

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2012, 01:30:59 PM »

....I get hemostats today!

That's exactly what their called, I looked it up after you posted.

Not sure if what I bought from HF is what the medical field uses because mine have grips/ridges on the jaw end, but it looks like what I remember from episodes of MASH. (for all you young whipper snappers that's a show about a hospital unit during the Korean conflict)
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
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