Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 13, 2025, 08:55:58 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Weak Firing on #6 Cylinder  (Read 1602 times)
Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« on: September 11, 2012, 04:32:43 PM »

Pulled the #6 plug wire and made no difference in the engine rotation at all. Pulled the plug and attached the plug wire, started it up and it's firing alright, but very weak. When the #2 is pulled the idle drops off considerably. I can pat touch all the other header tubes, but the #6 I can hold my hand on it a little longer. Also the #5 wire removed doesn't seem to affect the idle very much either.
Anyone experience this, any help would be appreciated.

'99 Interstate, 32K miles.
Logged


If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
Michvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2012, 05:08:07 PM »

Sure it's fire? More likely a partially plugged slow jet. Pull the plug, and check color. Should be a light tan or light brown. If it is real dark or sooty, fire problem. At least that is where I would start. Might put a part can of seafoam or some such cleaner in and run that through. cooldude
Logged
Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2012, 05:34:41 PM »

Sure it's fire? More likely a partially plugged slow jet. Pull the plug, and check color. Should be a light tan or light brown. If it is real dark or sooty, fire problem. At least that is where I would start. Might put a part can of seafoam or some such cleaner in and run that through. cooldude
Mich, that plug was dark and sooty. I pulled a plug from my Tourer and installed in place of the other plug. The exhaust manifold was super hot as it should be. I also adjusted the pilot screw a little, it is not running like I think it should, so I will install a new set of plugs. Thanks for the reply.
Logged


If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
Disco
Member
*****
Posts: 4901


Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2012, 06:37:23 PM »

Hi Eli!

If plugs don't make things better and if 5 & 6 are still acting the same, despite the low miles, I might include coil check in your troubleshooting. 

DFG
Logged

2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K
71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                   IBA 44,783
ryord
Member
*****
Posts: 117



« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2012, 07:28:57 PM »

I would also check the wires, I had a heat related problem with 3 and 4 wires one was bad both sides did not fire.
Logged
Mo Lee
Member
*****
Posts: 298


Waynesville, Mo


« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2012, 02:25:23 AM »

Sounds like time to rebuild petcock! About a year ago mine started misfiring on #6 plug was fouled I changed plugs and it did the same in a couple of days. Turns out #6 is where the vacumn line runs to the petcock and the diaphrams were allowing fuel to be pulled into the intake thru the line and fouling the plug. As for #5, I don't remember how the cylinders is layed out but if it is the right rear cyl directly across from #6 it can seem weak due the fact when you pull that wire it actually balances the engine out a little because of #6 not firing.
Logged

Michvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2012, 02:42:19 AM »

Sounds like time to rebuild petcock! About a year ago mine started misfiring on #6 plug was fouled I changed plugs and it did the same in a couple of days. Turns out #6 is where the vacumn line runs to the petcock and the diaphrams were allowing fuel to be pulled into the intake thru the line and fouling the plug. As for #5, I don't remember how the cylinders is layed out but if it is the right rear cyl directly across from #6 it can seem weak due the fact when you pull that wire it actually balances the engine out a little because of #6 not firing.

Good Catch!! cooldude
Logged
Valk55
Member
*****
Posts: 6

Illinois


« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2012, 08:08:56 AM »

Sounds like time to rebuild petcock! About a year ago mine started misfiring on #6 plug was fouled I changed plugs and it did the same in a couple of days. Turns out #6 is where the vacumn line runs to the petcock and the diaphrams were allowing fuel to be pulled into the intake thru the line and fouling the plug. As for #5, I don't remember how the cylinders is layed out but if it is the right rear cyl directly across from #6 it can seem weak due the fact when you pull that wire it actually balances the engine out a little because of #6 not firing.

+1 to that. I just experienced the same problem. Re-built the petcock and problem solved.  cooldude
Logged
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2012, 08:54:07 AM »

How well the carburetors are synchronized can be a large contributor to what you experience.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Red Diamond
Member
*****
Posts: 2245


Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2012, 10:04:53 AM »

Thanks for all the responses, I'll be getting on all the mentioned issues later today.

Dave, the #5 & 6 coil was certainly one of the things I thought might be a problem because the spark was very weak. When the plug wire is removed from the #5 plug, you can actually hear the spark jump, no such thing on the #6 plug. When any other wire is removed, there is a marked affect on the idle.
Logged


If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
R J
Member
*****
Posts: 13380


DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2012, 01:10:30 PM »

Run a new wire temporarily to #6 and see if it fires better.  If it does, you have a break in the current wire somewhere.

Usually happens when ya grab the wire and jerk on it,  It will break the carbon inside the wire.

My grandson did that on MGM.
Logged

44 Harley ServiCar
 



 

BonS
Member
*****
Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


WWW
« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2012, 02:24:10 PM »

The spark plug wires are copper not carbon. Yes, copper can break but it's relatively rare. There is a carbon resistor in the spark plug boot on the plug and these do go bad, on occasion, and can cause a weak or no-fire situation.
Logged

Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2012, 08:56:25 AM »

The spark plug wires are copper not carbon. Yes, copper can break but it's relatively rare. There is a carbon resistor in the spark plug boot on the plug and these do go bad, on occasion, and can cause a weak or no-fire situation.

You should be cautious when changing out the different components of the ignition system without doing due diligence regarding the compliance of components in a cd ignition system.

There are many more considerations besides just the ability to make a "spark".

That all aside, I would suggest to perform a compression test to insure the motor is in proper condition.

***
Logged

2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
sugerbear
Member
*****
Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2012, 11:43:05 PM »

The spark plug wires are copper not carbon. Yes, copper can break but it's relatively rare. There is a carbon resistor in the spark plug boot on the plug and these do go bad, on occasion, and can cause a weak or no-fire situation.

and can be broken by yanking on them.
Logged



Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: