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Danny
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« on: September 14, 2012, 08:19:12 PM » |
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My wife suprised me with a new set of Avons for our anniversary, never changed a bike tire before. I have a 2001 Std. with stock exhaust. I ordered the three orings awhile ago in prep for this day. Along with some moly paste . I am looking for some removal help. I have been looking for the actual procedure in shop talk without much luck I know there are some tricks to removal without dropping the exhaust or fender looking for some insight. Also the procedure for the spline/final drive alignment. What or where should I be looking.
Thx
Danny
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2012, 08:29:10 PM » |
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Its in shop talk....tech tips.......chrisj rear end svc.......good luck
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Danny
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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2012, 09:21:28 PM » |
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Aha! I'm a idiot didn't even think about rear end service title I just went straight to T for tires. Downloaded and thanks
Danny
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sandy
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2012, 12:24:00 AM » |
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Now return the paste and use Bel Ray waterproof grease. The paste doesn't last and won't protect the splines through the life of an Avon rear tire.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2012, 05:57:14 AM » |
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More tips here: http://valkyrienorway.com/Also... valkyrienorway has the shop manual... even if you don't remove your pipes (I never remove mine anymore) the shop manual is still a great guide... -Mike |
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2012, 07:39:38 AM » |
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More tips here: http://valkyrienorway.com/Also... valkyrienorway has the shop manual... even if you don't remove your pipes (I never remove mine anymore) the shop manual is still a great guide... -Mike +1, have never removed the pipes, just remove the lower shock bolts and lower the final drive enough to pull the rear axle. |
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2012, 02:14:32 PM » |
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More tips here: http://valkyrienorway.com/Also... valkyrienorway has the shop manual... even if you don't remove your pipes (I never remove mine anymore) the shop manual is still a great guide... -Mike +1, have never removed the pipes, just remove the lower shock bolts and lower the final drive enough to pull the rear axle. Yes but if you dont unbolt and block or move the rear of the exhaust outward the swing arm (left side) will get chewed up by the rear exhaust mounting bolts and the final drive will contact the right side exhaust |
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2012, 04:20:35 PM » |
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Yes but if you dont unbolt and block or move the rear of the exhaust outward the swing arm (left side) will get chewed up by the rear exhaust mounting bolts and the final drive will contact the right side exhaust
Very true! Marty |
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2012, 05:04:18 PM » |
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Yes but if you dont unbolt and block or move the rear of the exhaust outward the swing arm (left side) will get chewed up by the rear exhaust mounting bolts and the final drive will contact the right side exhaust
Very true! Marty That's not an issue for me, I guess because I take the axle out over the exhaust... ? -Mike |
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« Last Edit: September 16, 2012, 02:36:34 AM by hubcapsc »
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2012, 07:19:55 PM » |
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Yes but if you dont unbolt and block or move the rear of the exhaust outward the swing arm (left side) will get chewed up by the rear exhaust mounting bolts and the final drive will contact the right side exhaust
+1 Been there done that! I put a sticker there to cover the scratch. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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jer0177
Member
Posts: 556
VRCC 32975
Pittsburgh, PA
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2012, 10:01:23 PM » |
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That's why I pull the shocks and go over the exhaust with the axle. Just did it today when swapping out my worn Metzler for a new Avon.
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Danny
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« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2012, 01:25:58 PM » |
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Bike on the lift, tires in the sun and tools in hand...beer in the fridge, here we go.  |
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N0tac0p
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« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2012, 06:09:00 AM » |
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so which model avon. also i have the metz 200r16 on back, is the avon the same and can i mix and match tires (ie new metz on front)
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Danny
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« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2012, 01:01:59 PM » |
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Avon Cobra Av71 and Av72 I believe, for the front and rear tire in stock size. I don't know if there are any Cons to mix and match front to rear tire brands other than having two different names. I mean people run darkside with mc fronts all the time. Possibly two different wear rates, although there is already the inherent front to rear wear ratio but with two different tires this could become more or less drastic. Although I do have another question for the board....how stripped do the wheels need to be for balancing, do they balance with the rotors and such on the rims? My gut tells me no but I have been wrong before.
Danny
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« Last Edit: September 17, 2012, 01:04:52 PM by Danny »
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olddog1946
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« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2012, 01:09:06 PM » |
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Avon Cobra Av71 and Av72 I believe, for the front and rear tire in stock size. I don't know if there are any Cons to mix and match front to rear tire brands other than having two different names. I mean people run darkside with mc fronts all the time. Possibly two different wear rates, although there is already the inherent front to rear wear ratio but with two different tires this could become more or less drastic. Although I do have another question for the board....how stripped do the wheels need to be for balancing, do they balance with the rotors and such on the rims? My gut tells me no but I have been wrong before.
Danny
Everything on the wheel that moves with the wheel, except old weights. |
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VRCC # 32473
US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988
01 Valk Std.
02 BMW k1200LTE
65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd
Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
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Danny
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« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2012, 02:05:31 PM » |
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Got a little movement on the final drive flange this is connected to the dampners correct? Is a smidge of play acceptable or are these supposed to be no movement type things?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #16 on: September 17, 2012, 02:17:54 PM » |
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Got a little movement on the final drive flange this is connected to the dampners correct? Is a smidge of play acceptable or are these supposed to be no movement type things?
With new dampeners there is no movement. Ive seen many Valkyrie wheels with miles on them, and there is usually a little movement. I have a feeling this little movement is what leads to more movement and eventually worn dampeners. So, keep an eye on it....you might want to order a set of dampeners to have standing by. Next tire change may be the time, or if the play hasnt changed....next one after that and so on. BTW order the dempeners for the IS not the Std |
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Danny
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« Reply #17 on: September 17, 2012, 02:33:27 PM » |
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Okay going to pull the final drive flange take a real good look at them and the thrust washer and if the smidge of play is all I have to show for it I will reassy and order a few more parts for my personal parts shelf! Btw 78k second owner of my 01 std and the splines look great!
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Danny
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« Reply #18 on: September 17, 2012, 08:06:45 PM » |
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Okay that's not good. Came out to the bike after dealing with my kids to remover the final drive flange. Without removing the five nuts from the flange i can slip out the posts that go into the dampers and remove the flange without turning the nuts off...is this right?
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jer0177
Member
Posts: 556
VRCC 32975
Pittsburgh, PA
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« Reply #19 on: September 17, 2012, 09:20:47 PM » |
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Yeah - that's the way it works. The flange comes off the wheel with no tools. Then you need to remove the 5 retaining screws to rotate the plate that holds the dampers in place, making sure to take note of or mark where it's aligned, and which side is "out" (that part is marked).
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Danny
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« Reply #20 on: September 17, 2012, 09:50:23 PM » |
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Crap, after cleaning my marks came off I knew I should have scored the parts not write on them...newb mistake again. I know I have the dampners in their oroginal spots in relation to the wheel, however at this point the flange is best guess...do I need to align or reset the flange to the rest of the wheel prior to reassy?  |
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16666
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #21 on: September 18, 2012, 08:31:31 AM » |
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...do I need to align or reset the flange to the rest of the wheel prior to reassy? No. |
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jer0177
Member
Posts: 556
VRCC 32975
Pittsburgh, PA
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« Reply #22 on: September 18, 2012, 10:31:22 AM » |
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...do I need to align or reset the flange to the rest of the wheel prior to reassy? No. As long as the side marked "OUT" is out, you're good. I'm anal about putting things back together exactly how I took them apart. |
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Danny
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« Reply #23 on: September 18, 2012, 02:01:43 PM » |
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Okay sorry for so many questions but here is yet another one....Has anyone used different hex bolts to hold the damper plate on ones that don't need to be replaced every time you remove them? Did not even figure these were one time use untill I tried to retorque them.
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