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Dr Bobs Patient
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« on: September 21, 2012, 11:31:23 AM » |
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I posted an intro in the general and have done some searching with alot of reads but really no answers.
I just purchased a 99 I/S that needs fork seals replaced, along with the brake pads because they are saturated with fork oil. Is there any reason to replace the springs or anything else while I have the forks apart?
DBP
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
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Grumpy
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« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2012, 01:28:19 PM » |
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To do it right, replace the seals and the slider bushings. Worn bushings will cause an early failure of the seals. Not necessary to change the springs.
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 Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get. |
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2012, 01:33:26 PM » |
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I posted an intro in the general and have done some searching with alot of reads but really no answers.
I just purchased a 99 I/S that needs fork seals replaced, along with the brake pads because they are saturated with fork oil. Is there any reason to replace the springs or anything else while I have the forks apart?
DBP
Progressive (brand) springs are a giant improvement in most people's opinions... If you notice that the forks "dive" when you brake and "top out" when you accelerate, you probably don't have progressives... There's wear parts inside the forks, they're labeled in the factory shop manual, there's a copy of it at valkyrienorway.com if you don't already have one... There's a special tool needed for the left fork if you replace the springs. The new seals need to be driven in properly, either with a seal driver or some reasonable facsimile - not the blade of a screwdriver (ask Grumpy  )... there's a size of schedule 40 pvc coupling that is just the right size to make a workable seal driver for our bikes...  In fact, there's lots of PVC stuff that makes working on forks easier   I don't know how many miles are on your bike, but here's a front caliper anecdote: I recently changed out my brake lines, rebuilt my front calipers and rebuilt my front brake master cylinder and MY BRAKES ARE AWESOME... -Mike |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2012, 06:41:02 AM » |
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That's nice!
My brakes are awesome too.
All original, 116 thousand miles, no modifications, still original brake fluid.
I guess you'd have to see it to believe it!
Been through plenty of organic brake pads though.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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sandy
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« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2012, 07:48:01 AM » |
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After rebuilding about ten fork sets, I'd recommend slider bushings, guide bushings, seals and replace the springs too. If you can wait for shipment, get Hyper Pro springs. I put them in my Wing and don't regret it. I use 15 wt fork oil, but 10 wt is stock. Also, use OEM brake pads on OEM rotors.
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2012, 08:26:10 AM » |
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That's nice!
My brakes are awesome too.
All original, 116 thousand miles, no modifications, still original brake fluid.
I guess you'd have to see it to believe it!
Been through plenty of organic brake pads though.
***
Ricky.....we must be the only ones that got the "good brakes" from Honda and haven't had to improve them. 168 K on original fluid and lines, replaced my heavily worn front rotors a couple of weeks ago (for the first time) and put in new pads, didn't change a thing.....was still my "good brakes" ... |
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valky1500
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« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2012, 08:43:12 AM » |
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question:
How would anyone know what condition the brake lines are in without ever changing the fluid, let alone the brakes?
ans:
They wouldn't.
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'98 Standard '01 IS Yes I pull a trailer I have taken notice to those who use that word (Precautionary) and abide by it are not only very happy in life... but they also live long and prosper.  |
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X Ring
Member
Posts: 3626
VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204
The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans
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« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2012, 09:57:56 AM » |
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Additionally brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water and degrades over time. This could lead to it boiling during a hard stop and losing your brakes. Brakes are a safety item and ignoring them is stupid!.
Marty
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People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.  |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2012, 01:04:37 PM » |
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Additionally brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water and degrades over time. This could lead to it boiling during a hard stop and losing your brakes. Brakes are a safety item and ignoring them is stupid!.
Marty
Lets see....been 11 years now.....when do ya think its going to happen? "This could lead to it boiling during a hard stop"...this is such a laughable comment its borders on hysteria. "and ignoring them is stupid!"....hmmmmm, using them every day is ignoring them, must be a new definition of the word..what is stupid is using a fluid that will absorb moisture in the first place! |
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Dr Bobs Patient
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« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2012, 06:39:43 PM » |
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OK it was time to make a desicion. After some searches and reading on this forum and on the GL1800 forum, I decided to use the Progressive fork spring kit, bought the special tool and will use 10wt oil. Also ordered the Honda OEM brake pads. The bike has 55,000+ miles on it and I have to assume that the springs and such are original. As it rides right now the brakes are real sluggish from being oil saturated and the forks are spongy....might be from low oil level. A friend on a GL1800 replaced seals and put 15wt oil and said it made a great improvement, but didn't replace the springs.
The forks definitely have to have some work done to them and I believe no evil can come from this plan. Thank you all for your imput. It will take me several weeks to get into this little project and I'll let you know how it comes out.
DBP
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
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Dr Bobs Patient
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« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2012, 06:41:26 PM » |
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Additionally brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water and degrades over time. This could lead to it boiling during a hard stop and losing your brakes. Brakes are a safety item and ignoring them is stupid!.
Marty :
Lets see....been 11 years now.....when do ya think its going to happen? "This could lead to it boiling during a hard stop"...this is such a laughable comment its borders on hysteria. "and ignoring them is stupid!"....hmmmmm, using them every day is ignoring them, must be a new definition of the word..what is stupid is using a fluid that will absorb moisture in the first place! Now now boys, don't go and hijack my thread!  |
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
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Oklahoma_Valk
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« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2012, 09:05:28 PM » |
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I am about to embark on a fork rebuilding myself. Would love for you to post pics/progress.
-OKV
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Let those who ride decide.  |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2012, 09:11:50 PM » |
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Chuckle......my apologies.....it looks like you have a decent plan defined, if you run into trouble, this is a great board and your help is just a post away.
Enjoy your ride!!!
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kermit
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« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2012, 03:00:47 PM » |
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Bone
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« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2012, 05:38:41 PM » |
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You Tube has some good "How-to" videos on Fork seals installation on a VTX. I will look and see if I saved the links and post them below if I find them. Watch this video and many of your questions will be answered. More videos on the right side of the page.
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« Last Edit: September 23, 2012, 05:59:39 PM by Bone »
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kermit
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« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2012, 06:42:16 PM » |
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K thanks for the video will pass this one on to my brother in law the one that is mechanically incline and going to help me out on this project will look for more video....
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TJ
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« Reply #16 on: September 25, 2012, 07:41:44 PM » |
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If you're going to do the job right....
HDL
51412-k23-003 - 2
51414-mt7-003 -2
51415-mch-003 --- 2
51490-mwo-003 --- 2
91356-kz3-003 --- 2
honda fork oil --- 4
and a set of front springs
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Dr Bobs Patient
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« Reply #17 on: September 26, 2012, 04:57:46 AM » |
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If you're going to do the job right....
HDL
51412-k23-003 - 2
51414-mt7-003 -2
51415-mch-003 --- 2
51490-mwo-003 --- 2
91356-kz3-003 --- 2
honda fork oil --- 4
and a set of front springs
Thanks for the part numbers. I've used HDL before. DBP |
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
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Dr Bobs Patient
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« Reply #18 on: October 21, 2012, 06:54:45 PM » |
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Did the fork rebuild today. Used both the Clymer and the Honda manuals and cross referenced each. The old forks had an ring in them between the oil seal and the stopper ring that wasn't shown in either manuals. So I didn't put it in, followed the manuals.
The oil in the right side (leak side) was very dark brown while the oil in the left was greenish clear. I have no clue what that meant. The only tool I didn't have was a vise and it would have made things a lot easier. I couldn't finish the brakes as I had problems with the left pad pin - started another thread for that. Thanks to all for your help. I did take TJ's advise and replaced bushings, backup ring, along with the seal and dust cover.
DBP
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
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