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Author Topic: carb drain screw  (Read 2369 times)
ironman
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Posts: 8


« on: June 14, 2009, 06:20:19 PM »

 problem with #5 drain screw not stopping gas flow. can screw be overtightened and cause this?
or is it possible to have vaccuum leak causing gas to flow thru drain tube?
« Last Edit: June 14, 2009, 06:43:55 PM by ironman » Logged
Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2009, 07:32:25 PM »

Vacuum has nothing to do with the leaking drain screw.  You may have stripped the screw. Only way to tell is remove the screw and look at the thread on the screw and also the threads in the carburetor.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
ironman
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Posts: 8


« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2009, 07:39:35 PM »

screw threads are ok,   bowl threads appear to be ok.  
the rubber o ring maybe flattened.  anyone thing o ring problem?
« Last Edit: June 14, 2009, 07:41:49 PM by ironman » Logged
Madmike
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Campbell River BC, Canada


« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2009, 01:38:49 PM »

is the o-ring brittle??  Here's a link to the fiche - may be wrong year and teh carbs may be different but you can sort that out on teh site easy enough.  Some of the o-ring sizes are on the fiche.

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
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Redeye
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Overland Park, Kansas


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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2009, 01:56:46 PM »

The o-ring there doesn't do much except help route the draining fuel to a common output hose.  It does not seal the fuel into the bowl.  The steel drain screw has a cone on the end that fits inside a conical hole (seat) in the aluminum bowl, and it is interference fit (it jams in there).  If you're lucky, you can find a tiny piece of rock embedded in the aluminum float bowl's cone seat.  You can insert a q-tip where the drain screw goes and spin it to snag embedded grit.  If the seat is trashed beyond hope, or the threads are stripped, the only "nice" fix is to buy a brand new bowl with its drain screw (they come matched).  Under the classification "not nice", there is use of epoxy to glue the drain screw in place.  I'm not sure I would want that to let go on me in Death Valley in the middle of August. Smiley
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Cheers,
Rich

1999 Valkyrie Interstate
Mods: ECT timing mod with clutch switch mod, drilled baffles, gel pads in the seats, taller windscreen, longer kickstand, Metzler ME880 front, Dunlop OEM back.
Redeye
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Overland Park, Kansas


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« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2009, 02:11:56 PM »

You can test your drain screw's sealing capability with a Harbor Freight vacuum sucker.  Just hook the sucker up to the drain nipple and squeeze once to get some vacuum.  If the o-ring leaks, you can temporarily stop that by putting some grease on one of your thumbs and covering the drain screw end so your thumb contacts the aluminum all the way around the screw.  Or you can push a bit of modeling clay onto the screw to plug up the leak thru the o-ring.  Modeling clay is an oily putty that doesn't dry, and it is sold where kids toys are sold. Anyhow, the o-ring should be able to hold 10 inches of mercury if it is in good shape.  It should hold 18 inches with the help of the clay squashed over it.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2009, 02:14:14 PM by little.fox » Logged

Cheers,
Rich

1999 Valkyrie Interstate
Mods: ECT timing mod with clutch switch mod, drilled baffles, gel pads in the seats, taller windscreen, longer kickstand, Metzler ME880 front, Dunlop OEM back.
ironman
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Posts: 8


« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2009, 08:25:30 PM »

will get vacuum sucker and try. i am opting temporarily to put short rubber vaccuum stop and cable ty to stop leak on carb drain and sealed #5 drain tube with plastic plug and ty. seems to be working for now. talked to local honda dealer thought i just causing more grief...sd if i have a stuck float could fill cylinder.  my response was float wasnt stuck before i loosened drain screw. put 70 miles on bike today no problem.
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