Feedback Needed

[ValkFlyer]

I’m approaching 110,000 miles on my Valk and thinking that I’m going to have to service/replace my clutch sometime soon.  I’d like to begin prepping for the components that I'll need to buy and would like to know what I should be looking for.  Sure would appreciate some feedback from those of you who are well experienced in addressing this work.

[Hoser]

Are you having problems with it?  A clutch should not be a mileage sensitive periodic service.  No reason it won't last as long as the rest of the bike.  Hoser   ???

[Rio Wil]

Try this little clutch health check.  Run up to 4000 rpm in fourth gear. Hit the throttle hard and then very quickly pull in the clutch(just a quick blip) and release the lever with the throttle still pinned (rpm with jump to 6000+).  If the rpm is quickly pulled back down towards the 4000 level, the clutch is fine.  If the rpm stays elevated or increases, then there is a clutch issue.  Could be worn clutch plates or it could be too heavy weight oil used in the engine.  I had to drop from 20-50 M1 down to 15-40 Rotella to keep my clutch from slipping. That was at about 130K miles and it now has 179K with no hint of slippage.

This might seem a bit brutal on the clutch/engine, but is really not much different than speed shifting through the gears.

[ValkFlyer]

Are you having problems with it?  A clutch should not be a mileage sensitive periodic service.  No reason it won't last as long as the rest of the bike.  Hoser   ???

No issues, although I'll give Wil's test a try tomorrow, just like to be prepared.

[Ricky-D]

Are you having problems with it?  A clutch should not be a mileage sensitive periodic service.  No reason it won't last as long as the rest of the bike.  Hoser   ???

No issues, although I'll give Wil's test a try tomorrow, just like to be prepared.

This could be destructive testing so beware!

Pay attention to Hoser's comment. He's "right on".

***

[Disco]

No reason it won't last as long as the rest of the bike.

Unless you have a '98 with its original damper plate that is, like many have been, prone to rivet failure.  

[valky1500]

Nothing kills a clutch faster than using the wrong oil. 

[saddlesore]

I have 102,000 on mine but 99% of that is highway riding. I would think stop and go riding would be harder on a clutch.

[ValkFlyer]

While I appreciate the thoughts I'll I was looking for was some feedback on key components that might eventually fail.  If there's someone out there that would care to share that would be great.

[RP#62]

The folks that have done clutch work have done so because the rivets failed, or they're beefing it up to handle additional torque (commensurate with supercharger).  I could be wrong, but I don't think I've seen any posts regarding clutch work needed because it wore out.

-RP

[valky1500]

The fact of the matter is for obvious reasons...

that wet clutch plates don't burn out...

but the the dry ones do.   

Dry clutches will wear faster than a wet clutch (in general).

The wet clutch plates that do wear out...

come from using the wrong oils.     

[chrise2469]

While I appreciate the thoughts I'll I was looking for was some feedback on key components that might eventually fail.  If there's someone out there that would care to share that would be great.

The folks that have done clutch work have done so because the rivets failed, or they're beefing it up to handle additional torque (commensurate with supercharger).  I could be wrong, but I don't think I've seen any posts regarding clutch work needed because it wore out.

-RP

As Rp mentioned the most common failure of clutch component failure is the rivets coming out of the pressure plate(plate b, clutch on parts fiche) on 97/98 year bikes.  The most common symptom's are clutch handle only goes halfway, and slipping under hard acceleration.   If you do a search for clutch rivet in the old shop talk, you'll find some very good write ups and photos.  I'm not sure if there is a way to tell if you have a bad one or not until it starts to fail.

Any early clutch failure can usually be attributed to some other failure: blocked orifice in the master cylinder, sticking slave cylinder (usually squeaks first) or just plain old abuse-.

The clutch is pretty solid, if you want to to have all the parts waiting you can order it up but that's 3-400 bucks I could spend somewhere else.  Even in the wilds of Canada, it takes less than a week to get all the parts, although at twice the price .

Hope this helps you.

[ValkFlyer]

While I appreciate the thoughts I'll I was looking for was some feedback on key components that might eventually fail.  If there's someone out there that would care to share that would be great.

The folks that have done clutch work have done so because the rivets failed, or they're beefing it up to handle additional torque (commensurate with supercharger).  I could be wrong, but I don't think I've seen any posts regarding clutch work needed because it wore out.

-RP

As Rp mentioned the most common failure of clutch component failure is the rivets coming out of the pressure plate(plate b, clutch on parts fiche) on 97/98 year bikes.  The most common symptom's are clutch handle only goes halfway, and slipping under hard acceleration.   If you do a search for clutch rivet in the old shop talk, you'll find some very good write ups and photos.  I'm not sure if there is a way to tell if you have a bad one or not until it starts to fail.

Any early clutch failure can usually be attributed to some other failure: blocked orifice in the master cylinder, sticking slave cylinder (usually squeaks first) or just plain old abuse-.

The clutch is pretty solid, if you want to to have all the parts waiting you can order it up but that's 3-400 bucks I could spend somewhere else.  Even in the wilds of Canada, it takes less than a week to get all the parts, although at twice the price .

Hope this helps you.

Thank you RP and Chrise.

[PSUbag]

The damper plate (the one with the rivets) and the clutch spring were the only parts I needed when my clutch took a poop. Definitely get a new clutch spring, even if they tell you "it looks within specs." Trust me....

[MP]

The folks that have done clutch work have done so because the rivets failed, or they're beefing it up to handle additional torque (commensurate with supercharger).  I could be wrong, but I don't think I've seen any posts regarding clutch work needed because it wore out.

-RP

Added spring plates to mine with the supercharger.  You can tell the clutch lever pulls harder!  LOL

MP

[tank_post142]

i replaced the damper and spring only when mine failed around 335,000 or so. has over 100,000 more on the clutch now and no problems.