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rayvin57
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« on: December 07, 2012, 04:52:21 PM » |
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Sometime on my trip to swap seats with Chiefy in Saratsota my fat girl turned bitchy and started running rough at the lower rpms (under 3k or so). It was fine at higher revs and perfect on the highway. I put a quarter can of seafoam in her when we got back and took a 10 mile run at lower rpms to get the seafoam in the slow jets. Hasn't seemed to make a difference, so I pulled the tank and airbox this morning and looked for cracked or leaking hoses, but they all looked good. (BTW, the 2 air vent hoses coming off that swiveling piece on each carb bank were just hanging there, with no 3 way connector like I saw in the manual. Not sure what to do with them.)
Put it back together and decided to install the exhaust gaskets that came on Monday. While taking the left exhaust off, I noticed the header from cylinder 4 was cool but the rest were hot. Hmmm, now I'm getting somewhere. Finished the new gasket installation, but still running rough at low rpms. If I let the engine really warm up then all the headers get hot. It was only when I ran it for a minute or two to check whether my airbox reinstallation did the trick did number 4 header stay cool.
Should I pull the carbs and clean the slow jet in carb 4? Any advice would be appreciated.
Hey Chiefy--how you liking the Mustang?
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rayvin57
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2012, 06:31:01 PM » |
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After reading the thread by F6power about his #3/#4 not firing, I'm starting to lean the way of a bad plug wire. After all, it did run great before my trip, I had it sync'd and it was purring like a kitten. A bad plug wire or resistor would explain the roughness at low revs, but why would it seem to run fine at 3k rpm plus? I'll pull the wire and check the resistance tomorrow. I hope it's not the ICM.
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2012, 06:35:02 PM by rayvin57 »
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valky1500
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2012, 07:09:31 PM » |
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It could very well be the secondary wire (to the plug) as you state here... and it could also very well be nothing more than a lose power wire (primary side) to the coil as was stated at the end of that post. Just to make sure, checking both sides of the coil is the best approach.  |
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'98 Standard '01 IS Yes I pull a trailer I have taken notice to those who use that word (Precautionary) and abide by it are not only very happy in life... but they also live long and prosper.  |
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whitestroke
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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2012, 07:34:12 PM » |
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I think the #4 slow jet is clogged. Just that most of the other stuff is easier to fix, so might as well eliminate it. If you got spark at #4, clean #4 slow jet. Only a Nubies opinion  |
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2012, 07:39:06 PM by whitestroke »
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Minibike
Honda S90
Yamaha YL100
Bultaco 250 Matador
Bultaco 250 Pursang
Yamaha 250 YZ
Triumph 650 Bonni
Honda ATC 200
2 Kids 25 year break.
Suzuki GS 500
2003 VTX 1300S,
1998 Valk standard
2008 Goldwing
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Momz
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2012, 07:50:46 PM » |
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And it might be as simple as a bad plug.
When did you last change the plugs? Most of us get lazy because the plugs seem to last longer than previous machines.
Seafoam works, but it will not perform miracles. Berryman B12 Chemtool does a better job cleaning the carbs and is cheaper to boot!
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 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2012, 10:12:03 AM » |
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Knock on the carburetor a few times with a wood handle and then drain the carburetor float bowl. Do it a couple of times if needed.
You probably got some crap in that carburetor and a good draining may just be what is needed.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2012, 01:13:40 PM » |
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And it might be as simple as a bad plug.
When did you last change the plugs? Most of us get lazy because the plugs seem to last longer than previous machines.
Seafoam works, but it will not perform miracles. Berryman B12 Chemtool does a better job cleaning the carbs and is cheaper to boot!
+1 A full can of Berrymans B12 to a tank and run it out. Take day ride. If that doesn't resolve the problem, pull the carb bank and do it right.  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2012, 08:41:31 AM » |
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Problem solved--after taking out the carbs and cleaning the slow jets (and pulling the #3 drain hose from being pinched by the idle adjustment screw), took it for a ride and it purrs like a tiger again. Thanks to all for the help!  |
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lifguardct
Member
Posts: 156
2000 Interstate, 2009 Stratoliner (2007 ZX14 sold)
Southwest Florida
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« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2012, 07:11:28 PM » |
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Problem solved--after taking out the carbs and cleaning the slow jets (and pulling the #3 drain hose from being pinched by the idle adjustment screw), took it for a ride and it purrs like a tiger again. Thanks to all for the help! You make it sound quick and easy, I haven't even pulled the tank off mine...  |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2012, 09:42:50 PM » |
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Problem solved--after taking out the carbs and cleaning the slow jets (and pulling the #3 drain hose from being pinched by the idle adjustment screw), took it for a ride and it purrs like a tiger again. Thanks to all for the help! You make it sound quick and easy, I haven't even pulled the tank off mine... Nah, it wasn't all quick and easy, lifeguardct, but it definitely does get easier the more you do it. The biggest PITA for me when putting it back together is reattaching the fuel line---seems like my fingers have a tough time getting up to the petcock with the tank down. Attaching and reattaching vac hoses and plugs on the hot engine when syncing the carbs is another pain, especially with thin gloves on. My semi-old fingers just aren't as nimble as they used to be--just ask my wife... |
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sugerbear
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« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2012, 08:44:46 AM » |
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Problem solved--after taking out the carbs and cleaning the slow jets (and pulling the #3 drain hose from being pinched by the idle adjustment screw), took it for a ride and it purrs like a tiger again. Thanks to all for the help! You make it sound quick and easy, I haven't even pulled the tank off mine... Nah, it wasn't all quick and easy, lifeguardct, but it definitely does get easier the more you do it. The biggest PITA for me when putting it back together is reattaching the fuel line---seems like my fingers have a tough time getting up to the petcock with the tank down. Attaching and reattaching vac hoses and plugs on the hot engine when syncing the carbs is another pain, especially with thin gloves on. My semi-old fingers just aren't as nimble as they used to be--just ask my wife... here ya go http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-11-inch-20-offset-45-angle-long-reach-needle-plier-set-33202.html |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2012, 10:04:37 AM » |
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Thanks bear, looks like just what the doctor ordered, plus now I've got another excuse to take a ride--off to harbor freight to pick these up. Can't beat $8. |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2012, 12:19:36 PM » |
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Well, just got back from Harbor Freight and I was wrong--you can beat $8. The package of the two 11" pliers was indeed $7.99, but as I looked through all the other pliers and diags in the bottom bins I noticed they had the same pliers selling separately. The angled ones were $3.99 but the straights were on special for $2.99. $7 for both, not bad. Even though they are cheaply made, they'll serve the purpose and make reattaching the fuel line, etc., much easier.
Thanks again, sugerbear.
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rayvin57
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« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2012, 03:24:55 PM » |
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That's one necessary tool I've owned since the seventies  ...it now resides in the case with my CarbTune as the perfect tool for clamping the vac hose to the fuel petcock when syncing. If I get pulled over for going too slow on I75  , I figure I'm safe as long as they don't do a drug test on the #6 vac hose...  |
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