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rayvin57
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« on: December 13, 2012, 04:24:22 PM » |
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Ok, so I got around to pulling the carbs and soaking all the slow jets in seafoam to solve my rough idle problem. I reassembled everything tonight, but when I went to start it up it the engine took off like at full throttle, so I had to shut it down. Checked my choke cable, it was fine with plenty of slack. Checked my throttle cables and adjusted them, same thing. I even adjusted them to where there was slack in both cables, but same thing. It isn't even running roughly at the high revs--it's smooth and sounds like I'm winding it out.
I'm guessing I screwed something up in the carbs, but have no idea what. I'd be grateful for any help with this from the carb whizzes on VRCC.
Vin
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2012, 04:28:07 PM » |
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Turn the fast idle adjustment down a bit!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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rayvin57
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« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2012, 04:33:46 PM » |
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Turn the fast idle adjustment down a bit!
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Other than the idle adjustment knob, is there a fast idle adjustment also? I didn't mess with the knob at all when I removed the carbs, and I did back it out until it was loose--still no effect. |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15245
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2012, 04:53:42 PM » |
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Only the one idle adjust knob. Sounds like you might have an air leak somewhere.
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2012, 04:58:49 PM » |
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Did you dissemble the carb bank or leave them united when you did your work?
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2012, 05:01:53 PM » |
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Check to see if the throttle cable ends are seated in the throttle drum correctly.
Another thing to check is if the choke cable was re-installed correctly at the adjustment plate, some others have run into that issue before. I think what happened is one of the adjustment nuts was in the wrong place.
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98valk
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« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2012, 05:17:30 PM » |
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seafoam always increases HP by 50HP. I read it on a website.  that is your problem, too much power. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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rayvin57
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« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2012, 05:53:26 PM » |
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I left the carb bank united, pulled the float bowls, removed the slow jets to soak, and readjusted the pilot screws to 2 1/4 turns. The choke cable adjustment and cable position is good, with a bit of slack when the lever is in off position. I inspected all the vac hoses and reattached them as follows:
intakes 3 & 4 to the pair valve, intake 6 to the petcock vac connection. Both large hoses from the pair to the block connections, intakes 1, 5 and 2 plugged. Intakes to heads torqued at 78 in/lbs. All intake to carb rubber intact and snugged, as well as the carb to airbox rubber.
I don't detect an air leak, but if there was a leak, why would that make it rev so high (I'm talking 5k +) upon start up?
The cables to the throttle sleeve are in the correct position, and when I twist the throttle the engine just revs even higher.
Been working on the bike most of the day--maybe I'll have better luck tomorrow after a good night's sleep and fresh eyes.
Thanks to everyone for your replies.
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Grumpy
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« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2012, 06:14:03 PM » |
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Sounds like one of the throttle slides is stuck open. Did you remove the tops of the carbs where the diaphragms are ? If a main jet needle did not go in its seat correctly, it would hold the slide open.
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 Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you’re in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get. |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2012, 06:26:00 PM » |
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Sounds like one of the throttle slides is stuck open. Did you remove the tops of the carbs where the diaphragms are ? If a main jet needle did not go in its seat correctly, it would hold the slide open.
As a matter of fact, I did open one of the carb tops (I was watching the valk videos from D-Ray and he was doing a complete carb breakdown, so I opened a top just to look inside). I think you have something there, Grumpy. I'm thinking it was the top to carb #4. I can open it up without removing anything else, right? I might just head out to the garage now... Thanks, man. |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2012, 07:02:26 PM » |
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No dice on the open slide theory. I opened the top of #4 and it was fine, and then all the others. The needles were in there all the way, the springs were seated properly. The revs are not at 5k+ btw--finally looked at the tach and it's about 3200. Back to the drawing board tomorrow.  |
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fordmano
Member
Posts: 1457
San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05
San Jose, CA.
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« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2012, 12:51:40 AM » |
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Did you clean and lube all the moving parts on the outside of the carbs?
Does the Throttle move smoothly? All the way to full throttle?
Could you have kinked or gotten something stuck or wedged in/on/or against the throttle linkage that crosses over under the air box?
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  83GS550 93XR650L TARD! 97WR250 99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone 01YZ125(x2) 05DRZ-125 |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2012, 05:39:33 AM » |
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Did you mess with the synchronization screws? I bought a bike where the previous owner thought the synch screws were for idle adjustment. When the bike started it would rev to about 2000 rpm and decrease to about 1500 as it warmed. Synchronization and idle adjustment finally fixed the problem.
Check out some posts by Whitestroke, as I recall he had a similar issue that was eventually resolved.
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2012, 06:04:03 AM » |
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Did you clean and lube all the moving parts on the outside of the carbs?
Does the Throttle move smoothly? All the way to full throttle?
Could you have kinked or gotten something stuck or wedged in/on/or against the throttle linkage that crosses over under the air box?
The throttle moves smoothly, the linkages in the carb banks are lubed and working fine. One thing I didn't mention is that I did the hacksaw method on the pilot screws so I could use a regular flat head for adjustment. I had the carbs covered when I did this, but I'm wondering if a filing got into one of the slide areas. That could possibly cause one or more of the slides to stick, right? I'll pull the airbox and make double sure nothing is interfering with the linkage. I'm hoping to avoid a carb bank pull again. |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2012, 06:06:12 AM » |
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Did you mess with the synchronization screws? I bought a bike where the previous owner thought the synch screws were for idle adjustment. When the bike started it would rev to about 2000 rpm and decrease to about 1500 as it warmed. Synchronization and idle adjustment finally fixed the problem.
Check out some posts by Whitestroke, as I recall he had a similar issue that was eventually resolved.
I'd just sync'd them a couple of weeks ago and they were spot on. Didn't touch the sync screws at all, and the visual check for sync (half of the front hole show when butterflies are closed) look right on the money, too. |
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sugerbear
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« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2012, 06:21:13 AM » |
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when you backed off the idle screw, did the stop it sit against move with it?
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rayvin57
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« Reply #16 on: December 14, 2012, 06:52:46 AM » |
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when you backed off the idle screw, did the stop it sit against move with it?
Now I feel like an idiot--after I pulled the airbox again, I was checking all the vac hoses and noticed the carb drain hose for #3 was not attached, and I couldn't seem to find the carb end of it. Then when I read your post and checked for the stop on the idle, there it was, wedged between the idle screw and the stop... Lessons learned here: Always check for the simple things first (and it's not always a good idea to rush to complete a job late at night when you're tired). I'm assuming this will resolve my problem, sugerbear, and I thank you and everyone else for the help and quick responses...  |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #17 on: December 14, 2012, 08:39:19 AM » |
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Yeah, that was it. Amazing what you can't see in my garage at night, even with drop lights. Must've got lost in the shadows...
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old2soon
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« Reply #19 on: December 14, 2012, 11:07:14 AM » |
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This right here is the beauty of the board we are fortunate to be a part of. I've lost track of the times people have helped me out with stuff not only on the Valkyrie but other items i won't go into here. Lets just say i'm proud and happy to be a member here. RIDE SAFE.
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« Last Edit: December 14, 2012, 11:14:21 AM by old2soon »
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #20 on: December 14, 2012, 11:29:25 AM » |
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This right here is the beauty of the board we are fortunate to be a part of. I've lost track of the times people have helped me out with stuff not only on the Valkyrie but other items i won't go into here. Lets just say i'm proud and happy to be a member here. RIDE SAFE. I've said it before and I'll say it again: "THIS BOARD ROCKS" |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #21 on: December 14, 2012, 02:29:04 PM » |
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when you backed off the idle screw, did the stop it sit against move with it?
I'm not sure I follow this.? When you have you're airbox off make sure all of the slides are moving freely and returning to their resting position. Glad to hear the sync was good. Was this done before or after the rev problem? I think I'm confused. |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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rayvin57
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« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2012, 04:27:15 PM » |
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Not sure how the idle screw stop would move, but sugerbear got me to look there and that's when I found the carb drain hose wedged between the stop and the idle screw. So I owe him a beer or two. I had done the sync a couple/few weeks ago, and had done nothing to change that, like moving the sync screws.
+1 on the comments by hook and old2soon---"THIS BOARD ROCKS!!"
I owe you all some beers...
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sugerbear
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« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2012, 04:45:14 PM » |
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when you backed off the idle screw, did the stop it sit against move with it?
I'm not sure I follow this.? When you have you're airbox off make sure all of the slides are moving freely and returning to their resting position. Glad to hear the sync was good. Was this done before or after the rev problem? I think I'm confused. if you look at the idle screw tip, it rest on a shaft connected to the carb linkage turning the screw moves the linkage to set the idle. |
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