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Val_KEN_izer
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« on: December 21, 2012, 09:51:31 PM » |
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Im sitting at about 65,000mi on my '98 Valk Standard... I rode ond day and everything was fine... (I like to drop a gear and jump on it once in a while, yeah) but the next day I went out and noticed that giving it the rpm's and dropping a gear the RPM would Jump up to 5/6k and the bike wasn't launching.... Can you say... MAJOR SLIPPING. All the posts I've read either point to a recent oil change or problems with the clutch not being able to pull all the way in.... there have been no clues or hints to any of this prior to yesterday.... PLEASE HELP.... I hate to tear into the clutch if I don't need to, and I can't believe that an Oil Change would solve this problem seeing that I havent just change it? Ken... nekeroom@yahoo.comPosted 12/21/12 9:48pm PST |
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Hoser
Member
Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2012, 05:45:37 AM » |
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What is the viscosity of your oil? If it is not 10-40 or higher, an immediate oil change is needed. There is a round circle on container with the bottom panel blank that means it as no energy conserving additives. That is the right stuff. The factory calls for 10-40 viscosity or higher only. This link will help. Hoser http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ |
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« Last Edit: December 22, 2012, 05:49:14 AM by Hoser »
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/ |
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15245
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2012, 05:46:40 AM » |
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What oil did you use at the last change? If it had any "friction modifiers" in it, it usually takes a little time for it to affect the clutch. As for dropping a gear and hitting it hard....if you're dumping the clutch suddenly with high rpm, that can eventually cause you headaches. These clutches are pretty strong and trouble free, but at 65k miles with some abuse like you described, they can...and will, go south rather suddenly. Good luck, keep in mind you don't have to pull the engine to change/repair the clutch.
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Michvalk
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« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2012, 05:48:36 AM » |
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Well, it could be oil. What kind of oil did you use? Motorcycle or car? If the oil had friction modifiers in it, wouldn't necessarily show up right away. I would sooner think that it would be mechanical. The clutch lever coming out all the way? Maybe could be a problem with the slave or master on the hydrolic system. Or it might be the clutch it's self. Not unheard of to replace clutches at that mileage.  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2012, 06:36:38 AM » |
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First Welcome to the site. Sorry the fat girl is acting up but these things do happen sometime. You are in the right place for sure if you plan on fixing it yourself.
Now you said you searched and you found that oil (wrong oil) can cause problems and you dont think that is your problem but you didnt say what oil you are using. That would help us help you pin down the most likely cause of the trouble.
The other thing is, no matter how well made something is, racing is hard on a machine and in racing stuff breaks all the time. Moves that a small light sport bike can do all day long dont put near as much stress on their drive train parts as an 800# cruiser/rider being asked to "launch" over and over.
It is well known that the Valkyrie is a fun machine but the amount of fun is up to you, it will continue to provide maximum fun as it eats into your bank account either for fuel, tires or parts.
If you are a ride hard fix it when it breaks kinda guy then stick around and lets get it fixed
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2012, 08:33:47 AM » |
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I agree with the others. The engine oil issue has been well covered. I'd suggest looking at the lever and bushing to make sure they are in proper working order. Also I think I'd recommend changing the clutch fluid. Just run enough fluid thru the cylinders to make sure the old fluid is gone and make sure there is no air in the lines when you're done. These items are cheap, quick and easy. Then see what happens.
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Val_KEN_izer
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« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2012, 08:53:27 AM » |
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Thanks so much for all the replies! About my oil I use Honda oil only, I've always purchased from my local dealer, and this oil change has 2000 miles on it currently. I don't always ride her hard and I would say never abuse her, I put all the miles on her, and I also ride an '05 Electra Glide Ultra Classic, I'm a daily rider, ya gotta love So Cal weather, and I'm 55 and been riding since I was 19. I haven't changed the clutch lever, and it pulls in toward the grip all the way, and lets out fully too, that end feels normal. No mechanical work in the past couple of years, and never done any work on the clutch or drivetrain on her. Still baffled as to why the sudden change? At this point an oil change is the least expensive and easiest to start with. NOTE: the only thing that has changed is I've moved to a condo, I now park her under the building but she is at the edge and she was getting rained on last week so I had to get a cover on her... Could condensation have happen in the oil, and be the Culprit? Thanks again guys, Ken
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MP
Member
Posts: 5532
1997 Std Valkyrie and 2001 red/blk I/S w/sidecar
North Dakota
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« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2012, 08:56:46 AM » |
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Changing oil is a good start. Also, do as posted above. Change and flush the oil in the hyd. clutch! I have heard air and old oil with h2o in it, can cause some problems.
Do the easy/cheap things first!
If still bothering, you may need to replace the clutch.
On my blower bike, we doubled up on the springs, but you should not need that.
MP
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 "Ridin' with Cycho" |
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Michvalk
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« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2012, 09:03:56 AM » |
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I don't think condensation in the oil could cause that problem. Maybe in the clutch fluid. I would change that first. Make sure you bleed it through and get the crap fluid all out. If the clutch fluid is dark, watch for sediment in the resivor. Clean that out before you bleed fresh fluid through. If there is crud in the resivor, that may be your problem. Just start out assuming you won't have to pull the clutch, and get the easy stuff first. I will need to be done anyway. Have a manual for the bike? You can download one for free at Dag's site. from Norway. |
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Blackduck
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« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2012, 09:31:11 AM » |
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If you are applying moderate power on and pull the clutch in how far does it move before the engine starts to rev/ (IE slip)
May need to add some free play into the system.
Had to reduce the master cylinder push rod length on mine. Only the slightest pull in and it slipped.
Reduce the length and added Goldwing levers and no more problem.
And before I get flamed I do use my baby hard at times and it is still going strong.
Cheers Steve
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2001 Standard, 78 Goldwing, VRCC 21411
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Val_KEN_izer
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« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2012, 03:38:42 PM » |
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UPDATE: I just was able to get to the bike and noticed that even with out starting it the clutch lever was not letting out all the way....I could assist it and move it out further about 1.5" to it's "normal resting spot". No time to work on it now due to the Holidays... but to be continued! Ken
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: December 22, 2012, 03:57:21 PM » |
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Yeah, well, then the first thing to suspect would be the hydraulics are all gummed up.
Hopefully a good complete fluid change will correct the problem.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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chrise2469
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« Reply #12 on: December 22, 2012, 07:53:19 PM » |
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A 98 where the clutch doesn't come all the way back, I'd go with rivets separating from the steel pressure plate.
I would still do the complete hydraulic swap first as it's a lot cheaper and easier.
When it's been changed look inside the master cylinder and make sure fluid is returning back into the reservoir. You should be able to see the fluid squirting under a little metal piece. You can remove that plate but be advised the fluid can spray up a surprising height. If the fluid is really cruddy, you can get debris preventing good return.
Ride Safe and good luck.
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2012, 04:42:37 AM » |
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Well, if the lever isn't moving full travel properly then take a good look at the lever/bushing. One thing that hasn't been mentioned, when changing the fluid don't let any get on the paint.
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2012, 06:33:59 AM » |
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JimmyT, you are referring to the Suzuki bushing right? The $3 or $4.00 vs Honda' $10.00 one. |
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2012, 07:30:03 AM » |
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sounds like "Rivets"
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Val_KEN_izer
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« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2012, 08:18:51 PM » |
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***UPDATE*** All it ended up being was that the clutch lever was all gummed up.... Yes thats right... I removed the clutch lever, bushing etc, cleaned it all and then shot it all with WD-40 and put it all together and took it for a 100 mile canyon ride up to the snow line and back.... never any slippage at all! So a big shout out of thanks to all who reached out to help... Ken
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john
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« Reply #18 on: December 28, 2012, 08:05:53 AM » |
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llittle , easy things first ... always i find dry graphite works very good on the bushings nothing to attract grit , dust whatever  |
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vrcc # 19002
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sandy
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« Reply #19 on: December 29, 2012, 10:04:15 PM » |
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Now just for laughs,, flush the fluid and then replace the WD with a waterproof grease. Wd40 isn't a lubricant. It will evaporate and leave nothing behind.
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2012, 04:08:58 AM » |
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***UPDATE*** All it ended up being was that the clutch lever was all gummed up. Now THAT'S good news |
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