There is a red piece which connects to a green piece on top of the solenoid. The green piece has 4 slots for spades. The red piece which connects to the green piece only has 3 connections/wires in it.
The red connector is usually what fries first.
If you do the mod that you are describing, you will have two empy slots on the green piece, because the red wire will now connect to the dog bone, rather than the solenoid. Personally, I did not do that mod when my solenoid connections fried.
Instead, I did away with the red piece. i kept the green piece. I clipped the old spade connectors off of the wires, stripped the wires slightly, and applied new spade connectors. (I found these new spade connectors at my local auto parts store. They had RED plastic ends, and are the correct size for the spades. Red is an indication of the wire size which the connectors will accomodate.)
I thoroughly cleaned all spades and spade connectors. My solenoid was still GOOD. Only the connections had gone bad. The connections went bad because I wired up a radio system and did not use a relay. This created a strain on my wiring system, and manifested as a fried solenoid connection.
Also, I used dielectric grease on the connections, in hopes that they would stay corrosion free. When you have corrosion, you have faulty connections....which result in heat. Which fries things.
FIRST always remove the battery terminals from the battery. I remove my battery from my bike, so there is no chance of electric shock/spark/fuse blowing. I spent many dumb years blowing fuses and sparking wires because I was too lazy to unhook the battery.
I hope this helps some.
In short...you can do the mod you mentioned. I did not. If you do the mod.....you will simply be connecting the red wire to the dog bone.
-Okie
What I did was similiar to this....
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.htmlGo 3/4 of the way down that page.
