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Author Topic: Slipping Clutch  (Read 1991 times)
Rio Wil
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« on: June 23, 2009, 09:41:46 PM »

A couple months ago I posted about a slipping clutch that occurred  in 4th gear at about 4K rpm and heavy acceleration. I have used M1 20-50 syn for 60K miles, just for the hell of it, I changed to M1 10-30 syn and after about 2K miles I tried the 4-4-heavy acceleration again and it didn't slip (ie, rpm didn't surge from 4K to 6 K immediately).  I even tried full throttle and blipped the clutch so the rpm would jump to about 6K and  immediately would pull back down to 4K and increase as the bike picked up speed....normal operation.  I am due a 5K oil change now and will use 10-30 again even tho I don't want to and see if the slippage returns in the next 5K interval.
Either I have a "worn" clutch that was mysteriously "fixed" by changing oil or the 20-50 left a "deposit" on the clutch discs surfaces that the 10-30 removed.  I would be curious if any one else using 15-50 or 20-50 syn can duplicate the 4-4-full throttle acceleration slip or  4-4-full throttle clutch blip slip....



 
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sugerbear
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Posts: 2419


wentzville mo


« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2009, 10:20:57 PM »

i've been using m1 20-50 for 4-5 years now, my friends bike uses it also. no problems whatsoever.
mine 2k I/S, his 99 I/S, loaded on 3-4 thousand mile trips sea level to colorado.
i like it.
i also run mine kinda hard when momma's not on back. Wink Wink

also 29,000 on friend bike 36,000 on mine.
i know............not even broke in yet LOL
« Last Edit: June 23, 2009, 10:22:32 PM by sugerbear » Logged



PharmBoy
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Posts: 1058


Lawton, Ok


« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2009, 03:54:30 AM »

Have you changed the clutch & brake handles.  Some after market clutch handles have marginally different dimensions on the stop which does not allow the clutch to fully engage.  Happened to me, but was easily rectified by removing a little metal from the stop until it matched the original clutch handle...JTL
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Ken 11861
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Lunenburg, MA


« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2009, 04:33:46 AM »

I have been using M1 20-50 for 63,000 & have had no problem.
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2001 Valk (72,500 5/2011) & 2009 ST1300 (new 5/10)
Robert
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Posts: 16998


S Florida


« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2009, 04:40:02 AM »

I also have experienced a slip just in about the same range that you did with regular Mobil One thats why I use the Mobil One motorcycle oil in 20w/50. I would not use a 10/30 either as thats in the thin range and again it still is not a motorcycle oil. At around 55 there is a gear whine that is quieted using a thicker oil and there is also smoother shifting. If you want to use a car oil I would use one designed for diesels like quite a few guys do and I think its in the 10w/40 range better for our bikes. The factory recommendation is for 10/40 or 20/50 for temps above 85. Its not the thinner oil or the detergents in the oil that is stopping the clutch from slipping but the additives in the Mobil. I doubt that the clutch is worn and although the levers are a good idea they have been on for awhile and doubt that this is the problem either. There is much info out there and here is a link that gives you more in case you have never seen it. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1353



« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2009, 11:26:54 AM »

I think there are a fair number of folks on this list that use automotive 20-50 M1 and it has taken 60K for it to affect my clutch (if indeed that is the issue and not a mechanical problem). Given that, is everyone that uses automotive M1 destined for clutch slippage at some advanced mileage due to additive build up over time.  I had no slip in any gear except 4th at full throttle, 1-2-3-5 were no problem no matter how hard the throttle was hammered.  Apparently 4th gear, max throttle and coming on to max torque was the right combination to cause the discs to slip.  So, the folks I am hoping to hear from have tried the 4-4-full throttle test or the 4-4-blip the clutch test and they run a automotive oil.

I too ride my Valk with enthusiam and am familiar with the clutch lever being a possible contributor and its not in this case.   So, can I hear from anyone who has tried the tests?
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2009, 11:37:22 AM »

Robert, I presume your slippage went away when you switched oils.  The reason for using the M1 was for the additional lubrication protection of the higher additive content......but a slipping clutch is rather a downside.  Additionally, I was looking for some expense control, a 5K oil change every 3 months, plus3-5 tires per year gets a bit expensive (that's why I just went DS).....but I guess ya gotta pay for your riding pleasure...;o)
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2009, 06:20:46 PM »

After I changed the oil the slip was gone, thats when I switched to the M1 motorcycle oil and haven't had a problem since. If the clutch was going to slip it would be under those conditions as they need the most bite from the clutch. As for cost and oil the Rotella is a 5w/40 oil is cheaper than the Mobil One you can get it at Wallmart and the oil change intervals can go to 7k without a problem. Factory recommended oil changes are 8k with regular oil so the Rotella is a synthetic and quite a few guys use it and have had good results. So thats the money issue and the additive issue. The Valk is really pretty easy to get along with as far as oils just change it regularly and pick a good oil and she will go many miles.
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2009, 08:11:53 PM »

I thought the mobil1 15w50 was the only one without fiction fighters. I've ran the 15w50 in my valk for about 80k now with no problems. I also run it in my enduro 600 yamaha with no ill effects.
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daytona
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Posts: 209


Port Orange, FL


« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2009, 05:52:46 AM »

I thought the mobil1 15w50 was the only one without fiction fighters. I've ran the 15w50 in my valk for about 80k now with no problems. I also run it in my enduro 600 yamaha with no ill effects.
+1 cooldude
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