Maintenance Schedule & Failures (re-formated)

[Rio Wil]

We have a wide disparity of opinions (can't imagine that) on preventative maintenance actions. Here are my preferences and a list of my failures along the way.

178K miles on the old Girl, and I get 32-40 mpg depending on how hard the throttle is twisted.   
   
0K   Oil change every 5 K miles. (used 10-40, 20-50, 15-40, 15-50 dino or synthenic and mixed       weights, brands are M1, Castoroil, Supertech, Penzoil, Rotella, Ford Diesel, doesn't matter much.
8K   Rear m/c tires lasted 8-10K miles til I went dark side
15K   Front tires last about 15K miles at always 42 psi.
28K   Darkside tires last from 28K (first one was Falken 512) to 60K (Pirelli P4) (always 42 psi)
60K   Lubed the rear brake pedal pivot once (made a world of difference in back brake action) Lube the pivot and put on a car tire and the rear brake magically becomes useful without locking up.
65K   Replaced alternator at 65K (bad winding in armature) (need to check brushes in replacement as it has a bit over 100K)
75K   Replaced drive flange poly bushings once at 75K
80K   Replaced water pump (leaking at weep hile) at 80K (and antifreeze)
85K   Leaking right front fork, replaced seal
90K   Replaced intake o rings at 90K
100K   Changed spark plugs at 100K miles  (felt guilty) next change will be at 200K miles(won't feel guilty..)
100K   Vacuumed air filter at 100K, maybe replace it at 200K
100K   Adjusted pilots once
100K   Replace timing belts at 100K, kept original as spares, they still look fine.
120K   Replaced final drive at 120K miles (my fault went too far between lubes once!)
120K   Replace ujoint at 120K, developed mild/moderate vibration
120K   Replaced drive shaft/pinion cup 2 times (120K and 165K miles) I don't understand what happened at 165 K, they were looking good on previous 3 lube intervals.
130K   Leaking left fork, did the 35 mm film trick and fixed it, must have been insect parts lodges in the seal
150K   Replace front wheel bearings at 150K miles
165K   Replaced both front rotors at 165K (3-4 sets of pads in the meantime)
178K   Original clutch fluid
178K   Original brake fluid
178K   Never needed to rebuild a caliper or master/slave cylinder
178K   Original rear wheel bearings
178K   Never synced carbs
178K   Replaced 6-8 headlight bulbs
178K   Replaced instrument panel lights (it's a I/S)
178K   Adjusted idle speed once on top of Bear Tooth Mountain (12 K feet altitude)
178K   Replaced battery once at 7 years old
178K   Original rear rotor good til at least 200K (2 sets of pads)

[Rio Wil]

Well.....this is interesting.

We have a number of new folks on the board with 'new to them bikes' and there have been a number of opinions expressed as to the reliability/maintenance needs of the beasts. I have seen everything from my personal favorite (if it ain't broke -don't fix it) to replace the rear wheel bearings every 10K miles!

So, I thought I would post a history of my bike with failure details and my maintenance philosophy and see if anyone wanted to contribute their history for the benefit of the newbies.......the silence has been deafening......what gives?

I definitely prefer maximizing my riding time and minimizing my fixing/maintenance time and not replacing parts and fluids unless necessary......to each his own... JMHO

[hoosier jaybird]

Well thank you Rio Wil, I bought my 99 i/s ( valkyries are new to me) last fall and hope to do a good bit of riding this year with it. I fell in love with this bike on my 1000+ miles home from the dealer. I have been reading  tips on what to watch out for regarding issues that you experienced owners have had and have addressed these things on mine, so I am glad for any information I can glean off the site. More input from others I would appeciate.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Rio thanks for the write up. Gives me some insight as to what to watch for/expect during the next 100k.

Great info!

[BonS]

I don't have anything to add but I would like to thank you for posting this information. It's great to see a maintenance schedule that isn't over the top but yet practical enough to deliver the kind of reliable ride that we all want. Kudos!

[RudyF6]

  Nice write-up!

Is your petcock still OEM? If it is, do you shut it off regularly or not?

[BonS]

Original brake and clutch fluid does surprise me though . . .

[YoungPUP]

Heres the list for my 99 Std the was abused by its PO.  Purchased by me at 11383
11383- New tires (dry rot)  Fork seals, ALL fluids changed.
12500- fork seals again
14000-fork seals again
15k- another rear tire (picked up a screwdriver), spline lube (didnt know about this the first time)
17K-brakes, front wheel bearings (r.side had a catch point in it) fork seals again.
20k- (this past winters maint) Fork seals again and new R. slider due to installer error

All fork seals and bushings were new honda every time.  New Lucas 15wt oil every time. Different installer every time. Did the last set myself.  (insert smiley with crossed fingers)
All oil changes at 5K with Rotella 15w-40 dino.

[hoosier jaybird]

YoungPup, any idea why the fork seals were such an issue for you?

[Cotton Mouth]

Thanks for sharing Rio. Just yesterday I was wondering about many of the items you mentioned and possible life span.

[Valker]

Youngpup, are you SURE the seals are being installed right side up? I ride off road on my Valk quite a bit, hard and fast when on road, and am only on my first replacement set at 136,000.

[YoungPUP]

I can't say that they were installed correctly. Until the last set (put in with the new right slider) they were all installed by different mechanics.  Everything from the local honda dealer, to the 30+year small shop mechanic. The biggest concern is that when I bought the bike the forks were empty. The PO said they had been leaking for a bit. (take a guess at how long a bit is cause he couldnt elaborate)

[tonyfan70]

The only time I've had trouble with fork seals leaking after being replaced was when I had an unoticed nick in one fork. Started leaking almost immediately.

Not saying this is your problem.

I found the nick by taking some of that cheesecloth stuff and wrapping it around the fork tube and sliding it back and forth and when it snagged...I found the nick.


This was on my Vulcan btw. I'm hoping the shields on the Valk will help protect them.

[Dr Bobs Patient]

Thanks for posting this Rio.  I purchased my 99 IS last September with 55K on her.  Approaching 58K now.  Bought it with a fork seal leaking and oiled up front brakes from the seal leak.  Didn't have any idea what the PO did, so when I tore the front end apart, I replaced seals, bushings, springs (progressive), and brake pads.  Went darkside and replaced the rear shocks with Progressive 416 air shocks. And did an oil change. The oil is looking dirty at 3K miles so I plan and doing another oil/filter shortly.  Also she is developing a vibration on high speed decal.  Feels like the u-joint.  I didn't do a spline lube at the tire change (didn't know better) so I'm going to pull the entire drive train apart for inspection.

Your post gives me the confidence that, with a little preventative maintenance, this girl will last me a very long time.  And since she is my second love, next to my wife, that's a good thing!

DBP

[Rio Wil]

Nice write-up!

Is your petcock still OEM? If it is, do you shut it off regularly or not?

The petcock is stock stock but after replacing a leaking diaphram twice, I neutered the thing and installed a block off plate with a oring seal.  I turn the petcock to off every time the bike is "done for the day", don't bother for lunch stops, etc.

[pancho]

I can't say that they were installed correctly. Until the last set (put in with the new right slider) they were all installed by different mechanics.  Everything from the local honda dealer, to the 30+year small shop mechanic. The biggest concern is that when I bought the bike the forks were empty. The PO said they had been leaking for a bit. (take a guess at how long a bit is cause he couldnt elaborate)

I think that might tell the story...."when I bought the bike the forks were empty" that could have caused plenty of micro scratches on the tubes so they can't seal anymore. Now that you have replaced one, that may show where the problem is..  Rio,s post shows how longlived and low maintenance these bikes can be with a little TLC,,,, unfortunately, many of us have gotten our bikes after abuse or at the hands of non mechanics who wrenched on them.

[Rio Wil]

Original brake and clutch fluid does surprise me though . . .

I don't think that the top cover has ever been off on any of the fluid reservoirs, they are beginning to look a bit colored and will probably add a fluid change to the 200K maintenance as well as changing the antifreeze (it has about 78K now).  I am guessing that within a few months after replacing the brake/clutch fluid (when I do it) that seal failures will start and will have to rebuild the hydraulic  components.

[Chiefy]

About the OP, I just follow the original factory specs, unless there is compelling input on this forum to deviate from it.  As far as breakdowns, I haven't had the bike long enough to give meaningful input.