Load resistance of turn signals Update

[jmann]

I just replaced my rear turn signals with front turn signal assemblies to have both run and turn lights in the back. I pull a trailer and have the converter to run the trailer lights so to get the benefit of the brake light function i tapped into the output of the trailer converter and now have run/turn/brake lights with my newly added rear turn signals. By removing the turn signals from the factory wiring by utilizing the converter I now have rapidly blinking turn signals. I know this is an issue if going to LED's and I think I have done basically the same thing by reducing the load on the factory flasher. I am thinking if I install a series resistor to ground on each of the factory turn signal circuits that I can get back to the more normal flasher sequence. I ohm the single filament turn signal assembly I removed and it is ~ 2.5 ohms. Has anyone else had this type of issue and is my logic flawed with just adding some resistance to the existing circuit? Thanks for any help.

[CajunRider]

If you are using the converter in place of the factory lights (from the factory wiring harness view point), then you are likely seeing the same issue as using LEDs in place of the factory lights.  The "Flasher" is looking for a specific resistance from the blinker bulb.  Change this resistance (by going through the converter first), and you change the flashing rate. 

Your best bet, since you are using front blinker assemblies on the rear, is to wire the new "rear" blinker assemblies EXACTLY the same as the factory front blinker assemblies.  A good electrical schematic would be your friend. 

Adding resisters in the way you mention just adds more complications and more failure points (especially if you use resisters that are not rated for enough wattage). 

[Valkpilot]

I just replaced my rear turn signals with front turn signal assemblies to have both run and turn lights in the back. I pull a trailer and have the converter to run the trailer lights so to get the benefit of the brake light function i tapped into the output of the trailer converter and now have run/turn/brake lights with my newly added rear turn signals. By removing the turn signals from the factory wiring by utilizing the converter I now have rapidly blinking turn signals. I know this is an issue if going to LED's and I think I have done basically the same thing by reducing the load on the factory flasher. I am thinking if I install a series resistor to ground on each of the factory turn signal circuits that I can get back to the more normal flasher sequence. I ohm the single filament turn signal assembly I removed and it is ~ 2.5 ohms. Has anyone else had this type of issue and is my logic flawed with just adding some resistance to the existing circuit? Thanks for any help.

Try replacing the flasher with a variable load electronic flasher.

[valky1500]

I just replaced my rear turn signals with front turn signal assemblies to have both run and turn lights in the back. I pull a trailer and have the converter to run the trailer lights so to get the benefit of the brake light function i tapped into the output of the trailer converter and now have run/turn/brake lights with my newly added rear turn signals. By removing the turn signals from the factory wiring by utilizing the converter I now have rapidly blinking turn signals. I know this is an issue if going to LED's and I think I have done basically the same thing by reducing the load on the factory flasher. I am thinking if I install a series resistor to ground on each of the factory turn signal circuits that I can get back to the more normal flasher sequence. I ohm the single filament turn signal assembly I removed and it is ~ 2.5 ohms. Has anyone else had this type of issue and is my logic flawed with just adding some resistance to the existing circuit? Thanks for any help.

You say...

First- "I just replaced my rear turn signals with front turn signal assemblies"...

Second- "the single filament turn signal assembly I removed and"...

Third- "I now have rapidly blinking turn signals".

Those front turn signals are in fact dual element which means light bulbs. 

No matter what the resistance of the circuit is, placing a single element bulb in a dual element assembly will do just as you say yours is doing now.   

If I am reading this right it appears that you have given yourself the answer.   

[jmann]

Thanks for the quick responses.

CajunRider: If I wire exactly like the factory I can't utilize the brake function of the converter. The converter converts from 5 wire to 4 wire and allows the dual filament to act as all 3 light functions. That's why I am tapping off that.

Valkpilot: Can I acquire a variable load flasher that plugs into the factory plug location that you are aware of? I looked and its under the seat and square. Not round like I have seen other flasher assemblies. The problem will be location and I guess I could remove the overflow bottle to get at it to wire something else in. I'm looking for easy right now as I did the rear tire and all associated stuff this weekend and want to go riding. The sorta rapidly flashing lights aren't that bad I guess.

valky1500: Those front turn signals are in fact dual element which means light bulbs. I know that. That is why I added them as I want additional run/turn/brake lights in the back.

No matter what the resistance of the circuit is, placing a single element bulb in a dual element assembly will do just as you say yours is doing now.    Not sure what you mean as I have dual filament bulbs in there. That's the only way to achieve what I am trying to do

If I am reading this right it appears that you have given yourself the answer.  Do you mean adding the resistor?

[valky1500]

Thanks for the quick responses.

CajunRider: If I wire exactly like the factory I can't utilize the brake function of the converter. The converter converts from 5 wire to 4 wire and allows the dual filament to act as all 3 light functions. That's why I am tapping off that.

Valkpilot: Can I acquire a variable load flasher that plugs into the factory plug location that you are aware of? I looked and its under the seat and square. Not round like I have seen other flasher assemblies. The problem will be location and I guess I could remove the overflow bottle to get at it to wire something else in. I'm looking for easy right now as I did the rear tire and all associated stuff this weekend and want to go riding. The sorta rapidly flashing lights aren't that bad I guess.

valky1500: Those front turn signals are in fact dual element which means light bulbs. I know that. That is why I added them as I want additional run/turn/brake lights in the back.

No matter what the resistance of the circuit is, placing a single element bulb in a dual element assembly will do just as you say yours is doing now.    Not sure what you mean as I have dual filament bulbs in there. That's the only way to achieve what I am trying to do

If I am reading this right it appears that you have given yourself the answer.  Do you mean adding the resistor?

I'm sorry for the confusion here but no I didn't mean that at all. Adding a resistor to the circuit isn't going to do it. They are now two different circuits we are talking about.

If you did in fact disconnect the rear turn signals from the bikes circuit and tied them into the converter, red wires into the individual left and right wires of the converter for run, turn signal and brakes, then you want to also "Y" tie the black (ground) wires together with the black wire supplied by the converter. They are now two different circuits and you want to give them separate ground.   

[jmann]

Thanks for the quick responses.

CajunRider: If I wire exactly like the factory I can't utilize the brake function of the converter. The converter converts from 5 wire to 4 wire and allows the dual filament to act as all 3 light functions. That's why I am tapping off that.

Valkpilot: Can I acquire a variable load flasher that plugs into the factory plug location that you are aware of? I looked and its under the seat and square. Not round like I have seen other flasher assemblies. The problem will be location and I guess I could remove the overflow bottle to get at it to wire something else in. I'm looking for easy right now as I did the rear tire and all associated stuff this weekend and want to go riding. The sorta rapidly flashing lights aren't that bad I guess.

valky1500: Those front turn signals are in fact dual element which means light bulbs. I know that. That is why I added them as I want additional run/turn/brake lights in the back.

No matter what the resistance of the circuit is, placing a single element bulb in a dual element assembly will do just as you say yours is doing now.    Not sure what you mean as I have dual filament bulbs in there. That's the only way to achieve what I am trying to do

If I am reading this right it appears that you have given yourself the answer.  Do you mean adding the resistor?

I'm sorry for the confusion here but no I didn't mean that at all. Adding a resistor to the circuit isn't going to do it. They are now two different circuits we are talking about.

If you did in fact disconnect the rear turn signals from the bikes circuit and tied them into the converter, red wires into the individual left and right wires of the converter for run, turn signal and brakes, then you want to also "Y" tie the black (ground) wires together with the black wire supplied by the converter. They are now two different circuits and you want to give them separate ground.   

I did indeed separate the bikes rear turn signals from the bikes factory wiring. The converter takes the bikes separate right and left turn signals, the run lights and the brake light and takes those 5 separate wires ( ground is number 5 ) and allows for them to be converted to 4 wires ( 1 is ground ) for all those functions. I am now using the output of the converter to power my newly added lights (and also my trailer). The only thing I think is askew is the flasher not having the correct load. All else functions wonderfully. I really like the additional lights back there. I guess I am a little confused as to how separating the grounds  will improve the situation. I did reuse all the factory grounds that were wired to the previous lights. The converter output is separate wires for right/left turn and then the running lights that are common to both. The turn signal feed is also your brake.

[jmann]

Thanks all for the inputs provided. What I found is what I thought all along. The factory turn signal load just needed to be increased to allow the flasher to function properly. I added 10ohm resistors to ground to the right/left turn signal wiring in front of my converter and all works as normal. Now I have normal flashing turn signals and the addition of run/turn/brake lights in the back along with an additional 21 ultra bright LED light bar that acts as additional running/brake lights. She's lit up now. Thanks again.

[BigBad1]

Looks like a may be too late to chime in here. I am with ValkPilot. Add a non load dependant flasher. They are plug and play. Remove the old flasher and plug in the new one. Several companies offer them. I have one from Custom Dynamics.