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Author Topic: Why it may not be a good idea to hammer your bearings in with a socket  (Read 1417 times)
pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« on: May 03, 2013, 09:19:36 AM »

While getting ready to put the bearings into the wheels, I decided to study them first as these sealed bearings are different than the tapered bearings I have been installing in Harley wheels for years. What I saw is that the compression line through the rear wheel when the axle is tightened is through the spacer in the final drive, inner race of right wheel bearing, wheel spacer, inner race of right wheel bearing, side collar, brake caliper mount and swing arm. This made me see that 81 foot lbs of torque applied as compression through the inner races of the bearings made the bearing placement in the wheel critical.



If they are installed without proper compression of the wheel spacer by the inner races, when the axle is tightened, it will pull the inner races in relation to the outer and cause the balls to be tight against the sides of the races probable leading to premature failure.

If they are installed with pressure on the outer race only, ( like hammering them in with a socket ) when the inner spacer is contacted by the wheel spacer, and further pressure is applied to the outer race, again this will force the balls to be tight against the sides if the races and probably lead to premature failure.

I have come to the conclusion that the only proper way to install these bearings is to support both races on an parallel plane while pulling or pressing them into place (as the Honda shop tool will do). I also believe that the first bearing installed must be supported on both races as the second bearing is installed to keep the wheel spacer from displacing the inner race of the first installed bearing as the second is being seated.

I cut these out of brass to do the job, but there is probably a hundred ways to go about doing it. I think the critical step is insuring that both races of both bearings are supported when pressing/pulling or hammering them in.







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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2013, 10:20:54 AM »


That's awesome work!

After I got and used the Honda specific tool, I recognized this
for what it is over at Harbor Freight for $30...



No clue if the sizes we need are in that assortment...

-Mike
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2013, 10:37:28 AM »

Hammering on bearings is not my idea of good mechanical practice.

The spacer that is internal to the wheel should match the dimension between the lands of the corresponding bearing cavities.

How closely they actually do match would be conjecture but I am sure Honda has foreseen the possibilities and any tolerance is easily absorbed by the flexibility of the bearing to accept the variation.

I feel pretty strongly that the internal spacer of the wheel should stay with that particular wheel.

Other motorcycle manufacturers specify acceptable tolerance ranges for the wheel bearing and looseness and offer shims as the proper way to bring the bearing/assembly into specification.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2013, 01:07:55 PM »

So should they be pressed in ?
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2013, 02:04:01 PM »


That's awesome work!

After I got and used the Honda specific tool, I recognized this
for what it is over at Harbor Freight for $30...



No clue if the sizes we need are in that assortment...

-Mike

I have that set and have used it for years with no problems. I use a larger one to start the bearing and take it down to within a fraction of an inch of the edge of the wheel opening. I then go to a smaller one that is exactly the size of the bearing diameter and tap(not DRIVE) it the rest of the way in. With this set you're applying pressure to the entire bearing, not just the outer or inner portion. Since you can use either side of those presses, you have 18 different sizes available and it has proven invaluable. cooldude
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Denny47
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Grove, Ok.


« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2013, 04:53:00 PM »

There is no logical reason to beat on bearings with a hammer/ or anything else. If you don't have access to a press, simply use an all thread bolt with nuts on both ends and as you tighten the nuts the bearings will  press right on in.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 05:10:15 PM by Denny47 » Logged

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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2013, 08:14:15 PM »

FWIW, an OE pinion cup happens to perfectly fit the very outside edge of the valk wheel bearings. A couple light taps with a rubber mallet put the (frozen) bearing right in the pocket.  Thousands of miles later, no problems.

« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 08:17:35 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #7 on: May 03, 2013, 08:21:43 PM »

There is no logical reason to beat on bearings with a hammer/ or anything else. If you don't have access to a press, simply use an all thread bolt with nuts on both ends and as you tighten the nuts the bearings will  press right on in.
Good idea I would not have thought of that.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #8 on: May 03, 2013, 08:42:56 PM »

So should they be pressed in ?

I don't think the method of installing them  matters as much as it does to using proper tools to do the installation.
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