saddlesore
|
 |
« on: May 19, 2013, 07:16:50 PM » |
|
I've been in the tech archives and I want to get some risers. I think I'll try the one inch insert. While I may not have to get new cables I'll probably need a new brake line. I replaced the OEM with braided stainless steel lines several years ago.. The new lines had just enough room to work. I don't remember what brand I used so I'm looking for someone who replaced their brake line and has some room to work with so I know what kind to get. BTW, I replaced the clutch line also. That had almost 2 ft extra. Whatever that company was, I don't want to order from them again.
Thanks for any help.
|
|
|
Logged
|
DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2013, 07:50:53 PM » |
|
Unless really tight already, a one inch riser spacer should work with no cable change. If you get a little help, I would think you could take your top clamp off, stick a one inch something under the bars, and turn them lock to lock to see what kind of clearances you have on that brake line (and others), before you spend for the riser spacer. I cannot help with the lines other than to suggest this mock up can probably tell you how much longer cable you might need, if you need a longer cable. Protect/pad the tank during this experiment.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Bone
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 03:01:52 AM » |
|
I have the 1 inch risers. No other changes necessary on my 98 Tourer. 1 inch does matter I was getting a pain in the upper back/shoulder on long rides (several hours). The 1 inch lift in the handlebars changed the arm position enough to eliminate the discomfort.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
saddlesore
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 05:28:52 AM » |
|
That's exactly why I'm looking at the risers. I got an injection a couple of years ago. Maybe another in an hour. I'll loosen the bars and see if I can get by without any other changes. Thanks
|
|
|
Logged
|
DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
|
|
|
old2soon
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 08:05:57 AM » |
|
That's exactly why I'm looking at the risers. I got an injection a couple of years ago. Maybe another in an hour. I'll loosen the bars and see if I can get by without any other changes. Thanks
If yer working on the handle bars PAD THE TANK-I repeat-PAD THE TANK.  On my I/S I raised the bars but I padded the tank in case I slipped-which B T W-I did not.  But had I slipped the tank was padded.  RIDE SAFE.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam. VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
|
|
|
saddlesore
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 11:48:33 AM » |
|
I padded the tank. No accident there. I'm sure the one inch risers would help but I'd have to get a different brake line. I got a cortisone shot in the shoulder this AM so I'll probably hold off on that now.
The close call came when I moved the bike to the center of the garage. Almost for got to put the kick stand down. The red head walking past distracted me. Still can't get her of of my head.
Thanks for the input.
|
|
|
Logged
|
DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
|
|
|
tank_post142
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 12:02:43 PM » |
|
run the lines through the triple tree so they come out below and to the rear of the top this will give you plenty to work with. i just unbolted the master cylinders and passed them through the triple tree rather than break the lines.
|
|
|
Logged
|
I got a rock  VRCCDS0246 
|
|
|
billyboy
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2013, 12:07:57 PM » |
|
I have that pain and my hand goes numb after a while and was told to get taller risers. Do you have to get new risers or just spacers under them? Thanks
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2013, 01:35:49 PM » |
|
Just so you know, I believe a majority (or a very large minority) of valk riders of all sizes have swapped out for taller risers..... some with shoulder pain, and others who just knew it would be a better handling more comfortable bike with them than OE risers. It took me about five rides (and no pain) to decide I needed taller risers. And this was not my first bike that needed them.
PS, is that a numb throttle (only) hand? It isn't the risers.
Do you have to get new risers or just spacers under them?
It depends on how much movement you want/need? Try an experiment.... sit your kickstand up on a block of wood as level as you can, mount the bike comfortably with feet on pegs, and hands on the grips. Now close your eyes and move your hands to where you would like them to be. Open your eyes and see how much movement you have estimated. This is generally a function of how long your arms are, and how tall you are (and maybe also your back). In no event do you want ape hangers.
|
|
« Last Edit: May 20, 2013, 01:52:21 PM by Jess from VA »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
billyboy
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2013, 02:20:58 PM » |
|
Here they are installed. They go on top of the OEM risers. You get 2 short risers with longer bolts. .jpg) .jpg) Great! Now where should I get them from. Thanks Bill
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Bone
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2013, 02:52:33 PM » |
|
Bought that pair in 2011 from E-Bay for $58.90.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
saddlesore
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2013, 04:17:01 PM » |
|
run the lines through the triple tree so they come out below and to the rear of the top this will give you plenty to work with. i just unbolted the master cylinders and passed them through the triple tree rather than break the lines.
When I put the stainless steel lines on I had to do that to make them work. If I get new brake lines I want to make sure I get some that are long enough so I don't have that problem. Now after reading another post below I want to make sure the replacement would be long enough to work with bigger risers.
|
|
|
Logged
|
DARE TO BE DIFFERENT
|
|
|
|
|