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Author Topic: Drive Train Repair Report  (Read 1490 times)
Dr Bobs Patient
Member
*****
Posts: 267


Okatie, SC


« on: May 28, 2013, 02:10:21 PM »

I finally got all the parts in for the drive train repair.  Here's an annotated process!


Cover laptop with cellophane for protection!
  

Gather up the tools.  Surprising thing is, this takes very little tools!
  

Craftsman Motorcycle Lift with Valkyrie Adaptor.
  

Can't forget Nitrile Gloves!
  

Air Filter Installed
  

Getting under the tank to reconnect the hoses was a little challenging.
  

How to take off the Pinion Gear when you don't have the specialty tool or a vise or a pipe wrench.  I got the idea from somebody on this board, just can't remember who to credit.
  

Being cheap and shimming the dampners with bicycle inner tube!
  

This is the O-Ring I missed on the order.  A local independent bike shop (RPM Motorsports, Bluffton SC) had an O-Ring kit and found one that was .1mm larger.
  

This is where the .1 larger O-Ring gave me trouble.  I couldn't "gently" tap the drive flange on with a rubber mallet.  I held it down like a squealing pig and beat the piss out of it.  Hopefully I didn't damage the O-Ring!  Shocked
  

Very little room to work to get the U-Joint in without taking the Swingarm off, but it worked!  cooldude
  

Getting the boot back on with gloves and WD40 was a little slippery!  Cheesy
  

Using a 2-ton floor jack, the rear wheel went up and slid onto the Final Drive real easy.  Had the transmission in gear just like y'all said to do.  cooldude
  

Installed the rear brake.  Then torqued the axle, then the brake pin.
  

Finally, torqued down the Final Drive bolts.

During the process, I spaced out a little and used only Belray waterproof grease on everything.  So someone please tell me that will be good for the next year. Lips Sealed

On another note.  Replaced the front tire with a Metzler ME880 from HDL using Dyna Beads.  Again the local shop mounted the tire (RPM Motorsports Bluffton, SC).  And installed some used Kuryakyn highway pegs.

The only issue left, is that I forced the cable onto the speedometer and broke the little spade drive on the speedo gear.  So now I don't have a speedometer, but will be able to order a used one from Pinwall.  With that, I now have a spare U-joint (old one has very, very little play) and one of the O-Rings.  Think I'll order the O-Ring set now to have on hand.  Now first long distance ride is coming up in June to meet up with some northern buddies on the Blue Ridge Parkway!

I couldn't have done this with such ease just the Clymer manual.  The suggestions here have greatly increased my skills and knowledge of my Phat Gurl!  Thanks to all who contribute!

DBP
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
Dr Bobs Patient
Member
*****
Posts: 267


Okatie, SC


« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2013, 02:16:50 PM »

Here's the list of parts used in the above repair.

Swingarm   
40200-MZ0-A00   U-Joint #1 on Swingarm Drawing
52104-MZ0-A40   Joint Boot #8 on Swingarm Drawing
91261-ME9-005   Oil Seal (27X43X7) #16 on Swingarm Drawing
40201-MZ0-A00   Drive Shaft #2 on Swingarm Drawing
40215-MN5-000   Spring #3 on Swingarm Drawing
40219-MG9-000   Circlip #4 on Swingarm Drawing
40221-MB0-000   Stopper Ring #5 on Swingarm Drawing
40222-MN5-000   Stopper #6 on Swingarm Drawing
Final Drive   
91356-MG9-003   O-Ring (39.5X2,4) #34 on Final Drive Drawing
41410-MN5-000   Pinion Cup #13 on Final Drive Drawing
91359-MG9-003   O-Ring (64.5X3.5) #35 on Final Drive Drawing
Rear Wheel   
91302-MA6-003   O-Ring (61X2) #19 on Rear Wheel Drawing
91358-MG9-003   O-Ring (50.5X3.5) #20 on Rear Wheel Drawing
42616-MAJ-G20   Thrust Washer #4 on Rear Wheel Drawing
Front Wheel   
CYC-850446   Cycle House 90 degrees Chrome Metal Valve Stem
MET-03030010   Metzler Front ME880 150/80R17 Radial Tire
Air Cleaner   
17210-MZ0-000   Air Filter #2 on Air Cleaner Drawing
Misc   
   Belray Waterproof Grease
   Hypoid 75W90 Rear End Oil
   Anti-Sieze
   Red Lock-tite

And the tools used:
3/8 inch ratchet
Short 3/8 extension
3/8 drive u-joint
Torque wrench
10 mm socket
11 mm socket
12 mm socket
14 mm deep socket
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
22 mm socket
27 mm socket half-inch drive
8 mm socket
1/2 - 3/8 inch adapter
10 mm wrench
11 mm wrench
14 mm wrench
4 mm Allen wrench
5 mm Allen Socket
6 mm Allen socket
8 mm Allen wrench
Rubber mallet
Prybar
6 n 1 screwdriver
Stubby screwdriver
Small regular screwdriver
Motorcycle lift
2 ton floor jack
1" x 36" rigid pipe
1 inch motorcycle strap
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 02:26:34 PM by Dr Bobs Patient » Logged

I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
Denny47
Member
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Posts: 307

#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2013, 04:33:54 PM »

Good for you. Great satisfaction to be able to do it yourself. You know what you did and that it was done right so you don't worry about it later.
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1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust,  2012 Pearl White Goldwing
USAF 66-70, F-105 AWCS
The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2013, 04:56:20 PM »

Excellent report!
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Dr Bobs Patient
Member
*****
Posts: 267


Okatie, SC


« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2013, 07:02:20 PM »

You know what the most frustrating part of the operation was trying to line up the holes in the saddle bags!  The left side took me 30 minutes!!
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
Jess from VA
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Posts: 30875


No VA


« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2013, 07:20:52 PM »

Very nice tech report and pics.   cooldude
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pancho
Member
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2013, 07:45:41 PM »

Now that will give you a bit of confidence... good work.   

Not sure about the inner tube to shore up the dampers,, if they were that loose they are going,, but should last until next year. I would spend the $30 and have them on hand. I'm pretty sure that caused the misalignment that made getting the driven flange onto the wheel so tough, not the oring.

Enjoy your riding DBP,, you earned it.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Ricky-D
Member
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2013, 09:25:25 AM »

Yeah, I've got the same to say about those dampers.

They are way past needing to be replaced.

You're going to find all kinds of rubber remnants from the "fix" distributed throughout the wheel, and quickly since the inner tube rubber will not be able to withstand the forces the dampers are realizing.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
Dr Bobs Patient
Member
*****
Posts: 267


Okatie, SC


« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2013, 12:36:21 PM »

Now that will give you a bit of confidence... good work.   

Not sure about the inner tube to shore up the dampers,, if they were that loose they are going,, but should last until next year. I would spend the $30 and have them on hand. I'm pretty sure that caused the misalignment that made getting the driven flange onto the wheel so tough, not the oring.

Enjoy your riding DBP,, you earned it.

I'm sure it was the O-ring that made the flange so hard to go on.  I removed the rubber shims at one point to see if that was what was causing the problem, but it still would not go on easy, so I put them back in.  I'll see what happens in a year or front tire, whichever comes first since I run a CT on the rear.

DBP
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I keep doing that which I cannot do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso
Oklahoma_Valk
Member
*****
Posts: 375


Central OK


« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2013, 12:56:17 PM »

great write up. Nice looking rear wheel. Ill bet that took some time! Ive got half a mind to polish mine about every time I remove it. Then....I realize it'll just be dirty in little/no time once hidden under my hard bags.

ride safe.
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Let those who ride decide.
F6MoRider
Member
*****
Posts: 294


Lakeland, FL


« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2013, 08:39:53 PM »

great write up. Nice looking rear wheel. Ill bet that took some time! Ive got half a mind to polish mine about every time I remove it. Then....I realize it'll just be dirty in little/no time once hidden under my hard bags.

ride safe.

+1 on rethinking it after realizing it's hidden but still thinking about it everytime!
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VRCC #4086
2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
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