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Author Topic: How to prevent chrome alternator cover from blistering????  (Read 4804 times)
Mallett
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« on: June 07, 2013, 04:09:35 AM »

After reading on the forum recently about the cost of the chrome alt. covers going up in price to around 145.00 it got me to thinking. I believe the reason that the chrome blisters is because of heat from the alt. We need to come up with an insulting material to spray on the inside of the cover to prevent the high heat from blistering the chrome...I know that they are a lot of smart guys on this forum so I'm just tossing this out for opinions...Thanks
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2013, 04:24:37 AM »

Dont ride the bike and it wont blister.  Some do it and some dont, I happen to have one that did it. I know a guy that makes carbon fiber heat shields for indy cars along with some body parts. Maybe I could talk to him about it and see if he can come up with something.
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Mallett
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« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2013, 04:32:05 AM »

Dont ride the bike and it wont blister.  Some do it and some dont, I happen to have one that did it. I know a guy that makes carbon fiber heat shields for indy cars along with some body parts. Maybe I could talk to him about it and see if he can come up with something.

Well, I intend to ride mine....would appreciate any feedback from your friend...thanks Gavin_Sons
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GEORGE ELIOT
Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2013, 05:04:57 AM »

I lined the inside of mine with some adhesive backed heat tape, the kind used for wraping wires next to heat sources.  Seems to be working, tape should be availabe on line or at auto parts stores.
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Troy, MI
Mallett
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« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2013, 05:08:05 AM »

I lined the inside of mine with some adhesive backed heat tape, the kind used for wraping wires next to heat sources.  Seems to be working, tape should be availabe on line or at auto parts stores.

Thanks, Skinhead...I will look into that...
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9Ball
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: June 07, 2013, 07:21:29 AM »

There's also a school of thought that drips of gas from a leaking petcock can cause the blistering...
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Mallett
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« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2013, 08:32:19 AM »

There's also a school of thought that drips of gas from a leaking petcock can cause the blistering...

Thanks 9Ball, that is a possibility too. Just trying to figure out why some fail & some don't...
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Mallett
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« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2013, 08:50:49 AM »

This is the stuff I was thinking about trying...found it at Autozone....

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GEORGE ELIOT
Skinhead
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« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2013, 08:53:14 AM »

that should work.
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Troy, MI
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #9 on: June 07, 2013, 09:59:30 AM »

my take it is the type of polish/wax/cleaner being used not heat.
one such site about petroleum distillates below, same thing that eats away at valve stems EPDM material which is industry standard.

http://www.protectall.com/artpetdist.aspx
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signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2013, 10:47:52 AM »

Mine was pristine when I started some maintenance that included running engine from a remote tank with a high concentrate of Berrymans. I know some spilled from the lines as I disconnected, but I followed up with a carb sync. All this within a couple hours, my alt. cover was ruined. Not sure which, but one of the two did it in. Never had any type of wax or polish on the plastic. Bought a new one for $36, one week later decided to buy a spare and by then the price soared.
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Mallett
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« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2013, 04:58:36 PM »

my take it is the type of polish/wax/cleaner being used not heat.
one such site about petroleum distillates below, same thing that eats away at valve stems EPDM material which is industry standard.

http://www.protectall.com/artpetdist.aspx


Ca, if it is what you think...then why is it that the other plastic chrome pieces not blister too???
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GEORGE ELIOT
$ Ball
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« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2013, 06:53:55 PM »

Mine blisterd  when I syc  my carbs. Had two fans running on front of bike , but it was 95
the day I did them. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.
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Firefighter
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Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2013, 07:06:50 PM »

Payed 44.00 for my cover from cheap cycle parts. Glued some silver looking heat shielding material from true value hardware, been over a year , no trouble yet. Live next to Mexico, plenty of south Texas heat.
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fordmano
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San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05

San Jose, CA.


« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2013, 08:51:29 PM »

Payed 44.00 for my cover from cheap cycle parts. Glued some silver looking heat shielding material from true value hardware, been over a year , no trouble yet. Live next to Mexico, plenty of south Texas heat.

WOW!!! That was a smoking good deal, I saw your post and had to go check current pricing. OH HELL Shocked to the NO Angry!!! $184.xx now. tickedoff tickedoff
I guess my blistered cover will have to do still.
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gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2013, 09:20:40 PM »

Take a look at how the chrome peals. I've only seen it "wrinkled", never a "spot" where heat in one spot is causing the chrome to peal off the plastic.

Doesn't sound like a bad idea to put that stick on heat shielding, I was thinking of the floor mat shielding for a car, I think the same as in the above post.
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RP#62
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« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2013, 07:02:52 AM »

Mine bake in the garage at 105°+ from May until September (Phoenix) and get much hotter when I take them out and both of mine are pristine. I do put a rag on them to protect them from gas whenever I do any maintenance.  If it is heat, it must be a batch issue because it doesn't seem to affect mine.
-RP
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Mallett
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« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2013, 07:06:59 AM »

Mine bake in the garage at 105°+ from May until September (Phoenix) and get much hotter when I take them out and both of mine are pristine. I do put a rag on them to protect them from gas whenever I do any maintenance.  If it is heat, it must be a batch issue because it doesn't seem to affect mine.
-RP

RP#62, I think it is from the heat of the alternator which gets a lot hotter..150 degrees...
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Any coward can fight a battle when he's sure of winning; but give me the man who has pluck to fight when he's sure of losing.
GEORGE ELIOT
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2013, 07:59:23 AM »

this is the process that makes plastic look like chrome

http://muellercorp.com/chrome.php

"Chrome vacuum metalizing should not be cleaned with abrasive materials. (most waxes have some type of abrasive in them-CA) It should only be cleaned with a damp soft cloth. The chemicals in household cleaners can affect the clear coat causing it to become hazy or milky.
(bad batch like RP suggested?, mine has done it only slightly on the very lower edge and has never gotten any worse, showed up a few yrs ago. no problems for the rear brake reservoir - CA)
Vacuum Metalizing conforms to the base material that it is being applied to. If there is any contaminants such as grease, oil, adhesives, cleaners or any texture, scratches, blister, etc it will show through the coating."
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Blackduck
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West Australia


« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2013, 04:16:35 AM »

I'm with CA on this.
Have had both the rear brake master cylinder cover and the tail light suround blister.
No fuel has ever been on these.
Once Googled up an article about household cleaners (along with other products) causing this.
Been posted in here before.
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RP#62
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« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2013, 08:13:30 AM »

Mine bake in the garage at 105°+ from May until September (Phoenix) and get much hotter when I take them out and both of mine are pristine. I do put a rag on them to protect them from gas whenever I do any maintenance.  If it is heat, it must be a batch issue because it doesn't seem to affect mine.
-RP

RP#62, I think it is from the heat of the alternator which gets a lot hotter..150 degrees...


Understand, just pointing out that mine never cool off for months at a time.  Must have a cool running alternator because after 15 years mine are fine.

-RP
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JaysGone
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Delray Beach Florida


« Reply #21 on: June 09, 2013, 01:41:37 PM »

Im on my 3rd cover since buying the bike 3 years ago.
No leaking gas nothing but heat there.
All the covers have been used I might add.
Just don't seem to have much luck with them.
1 had a broken tab and the other 2 had small blisters that just got really almost the size of the cover itself.
None tore though.
Guess for my project that cover just wasn't meant to be.
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hueco
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WACO,TEXAS


« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2013, 10:27:38 PM »

Mine is blistered also. You know what? It doesn't make my Valk run any different. Go figure.  uglystupid2 I bought one made of steel years ago that a fellow member used to make. Don't know if he still makes them. It is sitting on a shelf in my shop.  When the chrome is gone from the plastic cover I will get the steel one chromed and put it on. cooldude Sorry. To answer you question. I have no idea. ???
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frosty
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« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2013, 07:21:32 AM »

No peel since '01. TIll rebuilt petcock, got a little gas on it then blistered. So i think its the gas caused it.
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BobB
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« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2013, 04:41:22 PM »

I never had a problem with the alternator cover but have replaced the rear brake cup cover two times.  I thin metallic shield on the inside may help.  But in trying to protect the cover, be careful that you do not insulate the alternator itself and cause it to overheat.  It is obviously air cooled under there.  The alternator is even more expensive and it can end your riding day.  Just a word of warning...   Undecided
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franco6
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Houston, TX


« Reply #25 on: June 11, 2013, 08:05:55 AM »

never had the problem until a the high cold wind of a Texas hill tore it off the valk.
Got areplacement from pinnedwhole all blistery a lot cheeper tho.
Has anyone tryed to soak, peel and realign the chrome film ?
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Enjoy the ride!
hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #26 on: June 11, 2013, 08:16:25 AM »


That is a complex-shaped flexy plastic part. I think, perhaps, flexing it
when installing it or taking it off adds to the risk of the chrome
separating from the plastic...

-Mike
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mirion
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1997 Std - 2000 IS

Frankenmuth, Michigan


« Reply #27 on: June 11, 2013, 09:05:09 AM »

Whats the common denominator? Some bubble, some don't.
I have:
1997 standard with 70,000 No Bubbles
2000 IS 38,000 No bubbles
Michigan climate and unheated storage
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Mallett
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« Reply #28 on: June 11, 2013, 01:57:03 PM »

Thanks guys for all yalls input...just trying to come up with a solution that would help us all...
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GEORGE ELIOT
98valk
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« Reply #29 on: June 11, 2013, 02:48:26 PM »

I just came back from a ride, namely from work in traffic, 85F. let the bike sit for about 5 minutes in the garage, sun not hitting the bike. the top of the cover is hotter than the bottom edge which from the honda name and below is slightly blistering. above the honda logo looks perfect. so in my case it is not heat. it is a '98 leftover I bought in new in '00.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2013, 04:32:14 AM by CA » Logged

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Jess from VA
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« Reply #30 on: June 11, 2013, 08:38:14 PM »

Sunblock?
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cajundood
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« Reply #31 on: June 17, 2013, 03:51:28 PM »

its the heat from the alternator as well as the engine that causes the chrome plate to seperate from the plastic(wrinkling) Until they make an aftermarket piece out of metal for this, you're just stuck with the wrinkling. you could coat the inside of the cover with some type of insulating material but all you're doing is reducing the airspace between the cover and the alternator. Do you really wanna risk frying th alternater from lack of cooling just so your cover can look pretty? a good fabricator could make these out of metal, add vents and chrome them and probably make a fortune. To sum it up....the gals get old...wrinkles happen. Cool
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John U.
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Southern Delaware


« Reply #32 on: July 04, 2013, 06:11:18 PM »

Mine is blistered also. You know what? It doesn't make my Valk run any different. Go figure.  uglystupid2 I bought one made of steel years ago that a fellow member used to make. Don't know if he still makes them. It is sitting on a shelf in my shop.  When the chrome is gone from the plastic cover I will get the steel one chromed and put it on. cooldude Sorry. To answer you question. I have no idea. ???

I bought a steel cover some years ago also. Shockbushing Gary (Pruor was his old handle) made mine. Sadly, Gary is no longer with us.
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Super Santa
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« Reply #33 on: July 04, 2013, 07:48:10 PM »

I personally believe that it is spilled gasoline that causes the problem.
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fudgie
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« Reply #34 on: July 05, 2013, 07:19:32 AM »

Mine looks good after 79k. 98 tourer. The very bottom is peeling but cant see it until its off the bike.
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rugguy
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Atlanta, GA


« Reply #35 on: July 05, 2013, 08:15:30 AM »

Sunscreen...
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Karen
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Boston MA


« Reply #36 on: July 05, 2013, 08:50:35 PM »

I think I used English Custom metal polish on mine, before I realized it was plastic, not metal. Used the Honda spray, and various wax products (Mother's, etc.) on the chrome side covers, with no ill effects. Pretty sure it was the metal polish on the alternator cover. Replaced the bubbled one a couple of years ago, and the new one seems to be holding up OK
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JFaje1
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« Reply #37 on: July 07, 2013, 08:40:46 AM »

I had my 97 for 15 years, and then my cover started to blister from just below the Honda name. I took it off, taped a straight line across
the cover, took a razor knife and scribed a line, and very slowly began to remove the chrome. When I finished, I lightly sanded it, and masked off the good chrome, and painted the affected area with silver paint.
It turned out pretty good, lasted for another 2 years till I sold my VERY
Favorite bike ever.
Hope this helps
John VRCC #89
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