Fuel Valve Leaking

[rugguy]

I have a leak in the fuel valve right below the on/res/off shaft. It is a slow leak....but none are good. I have read other threads but still am unclear about where the "weephole" may be that leaks when your diaphragm goes bad. I have attached a photo of where mine is leaking. Can anyone say if this is a common result of a bad diaphragm?

I replaced the O-ring that goes between the fuel valve and the threaded tank stem. As luck would have it, I also bought a used one off ebay and it leaks too. Weird, the two I have are riveted on the selector side and new ones don't have that.

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: Just called the dealership and they said, if it is leaking on the on/off/res "stem" side, I need to buy a whole new unit. Is that right?

[Mildew]

I imagine your going to get bombarded with pingle answers. I sealed mine up with jb weld and took the guts out. I used the perimeter of the diaphragm as the gasket. Never a problem. It will be completely manual though.

[Daniel Meyer]

UPDATE: Just called the dealership and they said, if it is leaking on the on/off/res "stem" side, I need to buy a whole new unit. Is that right?

Yep, technically that side is not rebuildable, though some have drilled the rivets and there's just some o-rings/etc to replace.

[Mildew]

Be careful with those leaks. Fuel will go straight down the line to the cylinder and lock it up.  I got lucky once.

[rugguy]

I just can't believe that the one I had started leaking and the one I bought leaked immediately. Coincidence I guess. So I will buy another one and be done with it. The guy I bought the second one from has a 14-day return policy so I can get my $$ back for it.

I don't want to do anything that would make the valve manual....I have a hard enough time finding my keys and remembering to put on my helmet sometimes. I don't need anything else to have to remember.

Thanks for the responses.

[Daniel Meyer]

Buy a new one. Fuel leaks are nothing to fool with.

[rugguy]

Buy a new one. Fuel leaks are nothing to fool with.

Yeah...Thanks....ESPECIALLY the ones between your legs....

[Daniel Meyer]

Buy a new one. Fuel leaks are nothing to fool with.

Yeah...Thanks....ESPECIALLY the ones between your legs....

Yeah, tell me about it. I've got scars...know what a Bull Taco is? (it's actually a fireball thinly disguised as a motorcycle)

[salty1]

Buy a new one. Fuel leaks are nothing to fool with.

Yeah...Thanks....ESPECIALLY the ones between your legs....

Yeah, tell me about it. I've got scars...know what a Bull Taco is? (it's actually a fireball thinly disguised as a motorcycle)

+1 on buying a new petcock. Daniel I used to have a little one "Lobito" like the one below:

[rugguy]

OK...now I am a little pissed.....looking at other fuel valves for sale NONE of them have these bulging rivets on the back of the stem side. Factory rivets are smaller and smooth in the back. It appears that someone has worked on BOTH the valves I have.

Has anyone else had this problem? Did rebuilding the petcock fix it?  Will the Riddler finally get the best of Batman?

I am going to buy a rebuild kit. If that doesn't stop the leak, I will drill out the rivets, make a new fuel resistant gasket, and reinstall with bolts. If for no other reason than to be able to report back if this works or not. Now that I think about it....there shouldn't be any fuel on the petcock stem side anyway. That would indicate to me that the diaphragm is leaking around the shaft....we'll see.

Too stupid to quit sometimes.

Opinions and experienced comments welcomed and appreciated.

[Gryphon Rider]

As far as I know, the only rebuild items are the "cover set" kit and the inlet screen. Neither of these will fix a leak at the DIY-riveted joint or at the on/off/reserve shaft. Save the trouble and just buy a new complete Honda or aftermarket valve.

[salty1]

Your Valk deserves more than A rebuild kit. I feels after 12 to 14 years of service a new OEM petcock is in order. ???

[rugguy]

Shamed into a new petcock purchase.....

[Daniel Meyer]

Shamed into a new petcock purchase.....

LOL! 

And NOW you can tinker with the old ones...

[rugguy]

One is gong back for a refund and the other will be tinkered with for sure....unless I get the bike running....then tinkering will have to wait for a rainy day.

[Cliff]

Buy a new one. Fuel leaks are nothing to fool with.

Darn right!

[Kye]

I don't want to do anything that would make the valve manual....I have a hard enough time finding my keys and remembering to put on my helmet sometimes. I don't need anything else to have to remember.

Rugguy, I'm picking up my new (to me) Valk next week and have been doing a lot of reading on this forum and elsewhere on the net researching these awesome bikes. And one thing I've seen pop up a few times, is to not trust the fuel tap. One recommendation I read was to turn your tap off after every ride. Which is what I plan on doing. I've seen the damage that hydraulic lock can cause before.

[salty1]

Welcome to the insanity Kye! I agree with you that the petcock should be turned off if the MC sits for an extended period of time. Hydrolock can get ugly. Ride safe and share some pics of your new ride sometime.

[Ricky-D]

Turning the fuel "off" is easy once you start to do it. Just hafta start.

You never have to remember to turn the fuel "on" for the motor will let you know every time.

Hydrolock is a severe outcome that will make you remember to turn the fuel off.

Not that hydrolock is assured.

I've many times forgotten to turn off the fuel.

Glad the carburetors are in good clean condition.

***

[Kye]

Thanks Salty. Tonight is my second night of Valk ownership, and seeing this thread just reminded me that I need to go and turn the fuel tap off. That is, after she died riding up the hill from my home earlier this afternoon... cos the tap was still off, DOH!

I've never worried about doing this with any other bikes. I'm hoping it will become habit like RickyD suggested.

[salty1]

Kye welcome to the insanity! Got any picks of your new bike? After a few times of petcock on and petcock off one gets conditioned. Anything to avoid the dreaded hydrolock. 

[BobB]

From the very first picture that RugGuy posted, it appears that that petcock had already been messed with on the valve stem side.  That is a pop rivet holding it together, not the factory rivet.  Am I the only one here that noticed this?

[rugguy]

Plunker.....you are dead on! It took me buying TWO used ones to realize that they had been repaired. However, I now believe that they were not leaking at all. It appears that the leak is coming from the connection created between the threaded tank nipple and the fuel valve nut.

I purchased and replaced the 'o" ring and it still leaked. I noticed that the fuel filter screen didn't look right. After I pulled it out I could see that the screen was hanging by a thread. I have ordered a new filter and purchased Loctite "Quicktape 249". I believe that the new "o" ring, the threadlock tape and  a good "wrenching" with a 16" adjustable wrench should do the trick.

We'll see....

[Daniel Meyer]

Plunker.....you are dead on! It took me buying TWO used ones to realize that they had been repaired. However, I now believe that they were not leaking at all. It appears that the leak is coming from the connection created between the threaded tank nipple and the fuel valve nut.

I purchased and replaced the 'o" ring and it still leaked. I noticed that the fuel filter screen didn't look right. After I pulled it out I could see that the screen was hanging by a thread. I have ordered a new filter and purchased Loctite "Quicktape 249". I believe that the new "o" ring, the threadlock tape and  a good "wrenching" with a 16" adjustable wrench should do the trick.

We'll see....

Forego the tape and the "good wrenching"...the o-ring does the job and if it doesn't, you need to determine why and fix that or you will have more problems.

Look close a the nut and make sure it's not cracked (it won't hold up to a "good wrenching", it's not that strong).

[rugguy]

Plunker.....you are dead on! It took me buying TWO used ones to realize that they had been repaired. However, I now believe that they were not leaking at all. It appears that the leak is coming from the connection created between the threaded tank nipple and the fuel valve nut.

I purchased and replaced the 'o" ring and it still leaked. I noticed that the fuel filter screen didn't look right. After I pulled it out I could see that the screen was hanging by a thread. I have ordered a new filter and purchased Loctite "Quicktape 249". I believe that the new "o" ring, the threadlock tape and  a good "wrenching" with a 16" adjustable wrench should do the trick.

We'll see....

Forego the tape and the "good wrenching"...the o-ring does the job and if it doesn't, you need to determine why and fix that or you will have more problems.

Look close a the nut and make sure it's not cracked (it won't hold up to a "good wrenching", it's not that strong).

Wound up being a bad gasket on the rivited side of the fuel valve. Fixed that now dry as a bone.

[jimmytee]

Glad it seems you've resolved your leak

+1 on what Daniel said. Don't go trying to torque that leak away with a big wrench, you very well could end up buying another tank or having yours repaired.

[rugguy]

I agree...but the problem was not caused by fuel leaking around the threaded nipple as was thought initially. It was due to a disintegrated gasket on the riveted side of the fuel valve. I had to drill out the rivets, make a fuel-resistant rubber gasket and bolt the assembly back together using ss bolts and nylon locking acorn nuts. Works like a charm.

I have no idea why this fuel valve is built so that you can service one side of the fuel valve and not the other. With the delicate little gasket that is in there, and with all the Ethanol gas eating these away, you would think this side would be screwed together like the vacuum side is. No matter....all's well that ends well.