Fog light switch

[Raverez]

does anybody know where I can get a replacement switch? Been looking at the usual websites but can't seem to find one.

[john]

electronic supply ...         ???
radio shack ?

[Michvalk]

Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys? 

[Westsider]

If you want a oem looking one, e bay has them under Honda fog lights in automotive parts and accessories. I replaced one with a nice waterproof toogle with a stainless trim.

[PatrickDoss]

I think Big Mike at Valkyriebling used to have some.

[dreamchaser]

If you don't use your kill switch as a kill switch, you could rewire it as your fog light switch.  I have read several accounts of that being done. 

[tank_post142]

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/circuits.html

[salty1]

These work nicely and have an extra switch or two for other add ons.

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Show_Chrome_Accessories_Accessory_Switch_Block_p/13-207.htm

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Show_Chrome_Accessories_Clutch_Side_Switch_Block_w_p/52-605la.htm

[valky1500]

He was good with pics.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/kill01.jpg

[Raverez]

Guess I should have mentioned I have a '99 Interstate. It's the switch on the radiator pod.
Thanks for all the help.

[Westsider]

http://vi.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=130877166188


This kit has the switch and these lights can be moded fit fit our interstate light mounts. But I personally like the kill switch conversion idea.. no fumbling around low for a switch, and I never use it anyway.

[valky1500]

Nobody ever uses the kill switch knowingly. But it's used continuously by the ignition every time the switch is on. As a matter of fact, the full running power is passed through it that feeds the circuits while running or not.

Over time the contacts have been corroding and the little springs get all gummed up. The end result is high resistance by as much as 2 or 3 ohms and that's a lot. That resistance causes voltage drop and everyone knows what that means.

So, every 5 years or so, you need to check the switch for high resistance and take it apart to clean those cheap brass contacts. If you can read any resistance at all with an everyday volt / ohmmeter, then the contacts are crap and it needs to be cleaned.

For this reason it's good advice to find a better use for the switch by giving it another purpose. 

[valkyriemc]

does anybody know where I can get a replacement switch? Been looking at the usual websites but can't seem to find one.

I tried him about a year or so ago and he didn't have any left. I pinned mine so it stays depressed in the on position all the time. Some of the larger electronics supply houses (like Digi-Key) may have one but I haven't taken the time to run it down.

[Westsider]

Val1500 ,,, thanks. Good to know!  Learned me something  :cooldu
But....like dreamchaser said,  take the switch part out of that circuit alltogether and use it for something else. If its hot all the time anyway, why not? Sounds like a permanent solution to that part of a potential ignition circuit problem...very minor potential mind you.? 

[salty1]

Modifying or changing the function of the engine cut-off switch is potentially compromising the rider's safety if there is a problem.     Every model of MC sold in the US has a kill switch.    FWIW

[Westsider]

Yes they do, I've been riding them legally since '76 and can't remember ever using that switch..   from what I've read and seen, people get into way more trouble, quick like, by inadvertently hitting the  kill switch.

[valky1500]

Modifying or changing the function of the engine cut-off switch is potentially compromising the rider's safety if there is a problem.     Every model of MC sold in the US has a kill switch.    FWIW

The kill switch was designed for use when all motorcycles still used kick starters. The point being they are both considered as out dated modes of operation. That means by almost everyone.     

The Valkyrie, for one, has the neutral position switch, the kick stand switch and angle sensor switch that provides better safety and without compromise. Incorporated together they are automatic shut offs unlike the kill switch with kick starters were manual.     

This thread was only talking about those aging switches that didn't work right and not being able to find them when they needed to be replaced. It was then properly suggested that by using the kill switch that was already there was just as appropriate to use as not.   

Nothing more, nothing less.   

[Oss]

Raul,

the button on my fog lite switch flew off when I went thru a pothole minefield going across Chappaqua Road a while back

If you find them get me one and I will pay you back

Also the front of the kury volt meter fell off the voltmeter on the right peg

f'in potholes really take a toll on a bike, and the forks

[Raverez]

I'm thinking of just connecting the two wires and keeping the lights on all the time. Might make them burn out faster. Or getting a toggle switch at local auto parts store. Can't seem to find a push switch that will fit.

[salty1]

I'm thinking of just connecting the two wires and keeping the lights on all the time. Might make them burn out faster. Or getting a toggle switch at local auto parts store. Can't seem to find a push switch that will fit.

A water proof toggle switch would be a good approach IMO.

[Raverez]

Saw two at auto zone. Both said interior and exterior use. One said 15 amp 12volt the other 3 amp 12 volt
I'm guessing the 15 amp but not sure. Only have very basic electrical knowledge.

[salty1]

I would go with the 15 amp toggle. I assume this light system has a relay as part of the circuit. I don't know if the lights were Honda issue on the bike. If not, you should have a circuit with a relay as part of it.

[BigBad1]

The fog light switch does not carry a heavy load of current. It is just a trigger for the relay. Therefore, it's very unlikely that the switch is actually burnt.  The contacts inside the switch are probably dirty. Take the switch apart, clean it with a good degreaser, put a new coat of anti-oxidant electrical grease on the contacts and put it back in service.  The switch has three springs inside it (two for the contacts and one for the button return). Be carefully when disassembling not to lose the springs. There is also a copper piece that holds the switch in the "on" position. Pay close attention to the location and orientation of the copper piece so you will know how the switch goes back together.  You may also want to make sure that the problem is actually the switch and not the relay before you take the switch apart. The relay should be located under the right side cover. It is a very small relay that is should to be hanging from the large wiring harness using a zip tie. See the diagram below for relay location.

 

[Raverez]

pushing down on the switch there isn't a clicking sound. used to be. I can jump the connection and the lights go on which leads me to think it's the switch and not the relay.

[BigBad1]

You are correct. If the lights come on while holding the switch, the relay is ok. Sounds like the copper piece I was talking about inside the switch may have broken or worn so that the switch want stay in the "on" position. I changed mine out for a Show Chrome BBP-13-207 which puts the switch on the handlebars for better access. I removed the old switch and installed a 12 volt accessory socket (cigarette lighter) in the pod. This may be a little more than you want to do right now because you will need to remove the tank to run the new wire for the accessory socket and for the switch. You may check with the dealer to see if can get the part number for the switch. They may have used the same switch of other applications and it may still be available. Bypassing the switch and leaving on all the time is also a good alternative. I keep mine on most of the time.

[Raverez]

Checked my local dealer. Didn't have a clue. Couldn't find a replacement in any of their catalogs. So, prob just going to cross the wires and have them always on.



Tanks for all the suggestions and help..