Moly Paste

[ragincajun]

I have some Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease.  Is this the same as Moly Paste?

[GOOSE]

NO, IT IS NOT THE SAME, BUT .... I HAVE BEEN USING THE BELRAY WATERPROOF GREASE ON MY FINAL DRIVE/FINAL DRIVEN FLANGE/DRIVE SHAFT/AND PINION CUP FOR YEARS NOW.  AT 10,000 - 12,000 MILE SERVICE INTERVALS ALL OF THE ABOVE PARTS HAVE PLENTY OF GREASE ON THEM, AND NO WEAR WHATSOEVER .... GOOD STUFF.

[old2soon]

Grease with moly in it will state it on the container. Moly grease looks greyish in an open can. RIDE SAFE.

[Tailgate Tommy]

Guard Dog (board sponsor, click their add at the top of the page) has moly paste and grease here:
http://guarddogmoly.com/prod-moto.shtml
tkylli

[9Ball]

If you look in your Honda Service manual they have symbols representing the type of lubricants required for each part during maintenance (such as a picture of a grease gun with the letters M or  MP).  The symbol glossary also provides examples of the type of lubricant that meets this requirement and/or the specs required.

There's enough info using search function to choke a horse...you should be able to find a lot of reading material if you desire.

The Honda Service manual is a great resource...

[ragincajun]

If you look in your Honda Service manual they have symbols representing the type of lubricants required for each part during maintenance (such as a picture of a grease gun with the letters M or  MP).  The symbol glossary also provides examples of the type of lubricant that meets this requirement and/or the specs required.

There's enough info using search function to choke a horse...you should be able to find a lot of reading material if you desire.

The Honda Service manual is a great resource...

I was asking because the search function showed a lot of people using Moly paste.  The instructions on the Shop Talk also reference that.  But I bought the Bel Ray because I had read that somewhere else on the forum. 

I've also read in numerous places that the manual is not "right" when it comes to the final drive and what lubricant to use; it seems many others here use something other than the service recommended...not to mention several threads that the final drive was supposed to be maintenance free yet we have to maintain it ever 10k or so. 

[9Ball]

In my 13 years on this forum I don't ever remember reading that the manual was "not right" in regards to lubing the final drive...that's just not the case.

Many have tried building a better mousetrap by experimenting with different greases and mixtures, some with success and others not so much.  There is sometimes no explanation for why some have accelerated wear and red rust even when using the proper grease and paste.  This could be more environmental, such as extended riding in wet conditions, o-ring failures, even improper torqueing of the 4 bolts for the final drive.

You're correct regarding the driven flange and hub...these require moly paste.  The pinion cup and drive shaft (including the oil seal) require moly grease.  These are what the manual calls for.  I've read that some use the green belray grease on the driven flange without problem.  I personally wouldn't recommend this.  Some have mixed moly paste with the belray and reported satisfactory performance between tire changes.  It boils down to opinion and empirical results...whatever makes it work for you.

The manual is very specific on not only the type of lubricant, but also the quantity for each location.  I weigh the paste and grease and try to stay close to the recommended amounts.  This may be overkill, but each time I remove my wheel and final drive all the teeth have remained like new.  There's been a lot of controversy about using too much moly grease in the pinion cup and subsequent plugging of the two holes causing premature wear.  This is less likely by sticking to the recommended quantity of grease.

As far as service interval for the final drive, only the drive oil is in the basic schedule.  The driven flange is maintained during wheel removal and installation....done at each tire change.  The drive shaft and pinion cup are serviced when they are removed for repair or inspection...and this isn't specified in any interval, although knowing the collective experience of this forum it should be done on a routine basis.  A lot seem to be doing this at each tire change.  I've found that every other tire change has been working for me.  The only wrong thing is to ignore these inspections.

You're welcome to use whatever makes you feel good, but don't think just because some choose to deviate from the recommendations that the manual is wrong.

Again, good luck with whatever you decide.

[Robert]

In my 13 years on this forum I don't ever remember reading that the manual was "not right" in regards to lubing the final drive...that's just not the case.

 
While I agree that the manual is usually correct in a few spots there is some erroneous information drive shaft lubrication being one. Other things like the torquing of smaller bolts is a problem. But Bel Ray grease is good for the drive assembly. I am glad you found a routine that works for you but for most it was a problem. I guess we should consider this in the same line like what oil is best 

[9Ball]

In my 13 years on this forum I don't ever remember reading that the manual was "not right" in regards to lubing the final drive...that's just not the case.

 
While I agree that the manual is usually correct in a few spots there is some erroneous information drive shaft lubrication being one. Other things like the torquing of smaller bolts is a problem. But Bel Ray grease is good for the drive assembly. I am glad you found a routine that works for you but for most it was a problem. I guess we should consider this in the same line like what oil is best  

I know you think my statement is funny, but do you have any examples where the manual was wrong for lubing the final drive?  I'm not sure what you are referring to regarding the drive shaft lube issue.  I'm also not convinced in your statement that "for most it was a problem."

I've run across other torque setting errors in the manual, but not for the final drive.  I'd be interested in something to refer to other than opinion.

Yes, following the instructions in the manual works for me.   

Thanks...

[Farther]

:2funny:for most it was a problem. 

I too am suspicious of broad comments without support.  Are you talking about most Valkyrie owners on the planet, most in the USA, most on this forum or most in your household?

[GOOSE]

I KNEW WHERE THIS WAS GOING FROM THE VERY START !

[quexpress]

I KNEW WHERE THIS WAS GOING FROM THE VERY START !

Yup!

[Robert]

In my 13 years on this forum I don't ever remember reading that the manual was "not right" in regards to lubing the final drive...that's just not the case.

 
While I agree that the manual is usually correct in a few spots there is some erroneous information drive shaft lubrication being one. Other things like the torquing of smaller bolts is a problem. But Bel Ray grease is good for the drive assembly. I am glad you found a routine that works for you but for most it was a problem. I guess we should consider this in the same line like what oil is best  

I know you think my statement is funny, but do you have any examples where the manual was wrong for lubing the final drive?  I'm not sure what you are referring to regarding the drive shaft lube issue.  I'm also not convinced in your statement that "for most it was a problem."

I've run across other torque setting errors in the manual, but not for the final drive.  I'd be interested in something to refer to other than opinion.

Yes, following the instructions in the manual works for me.  

Thanks...

Well I guess along with Farther you guys have not looked at the extensive problems people have had with the drive shaft. Maybe not even considered why so many are asking questions about this issue. Actually there are 26 pages of  the topic of drive shaft in searching most with lube problems, Research is a wonderful thing 9Ball you can see the examples and farther I will let you decided the scope and the size of the problem after you are informed. As you search through the pages you will see certain problems that have cropped up consistently. While the manual is a guide and provides baseline advice it by no means is gospel.
  

[9Ball]

I'm almost done beating a dead horse, but the problems people are experiencing with the final drive don't seem to be caused by actually following the maintenance instructions for assembly and lubrication provided in the Honda Service Manual.  I believe (and have nothing to back this up other than what I read and interpret from reading these posts) that it is more likely that the problems are from not following the service manual.

I'd still like to know what the error you describe in the drive shaft lubrication instructions is so that I can note it in my manual...

[Robert]

I'm almost done beating a dead horse, but the problems people are experiencing with the final drive don't seem to be caused by actually following the maintenance instructions for assembly and lubrication provided in the Honda Service Manual.  I believe (and have nothing to back this up other than what I read and interpret from reading these posts) that it is more likely that the problems are from not following the service manual.

I'd still like to know what the error you describe in the drive shaft lubrication instructions is so that I can note it in my manual...

Now that really is funny, just read the manual and do what is says it works for you, that's great, really, Ignore the 26 pages of problems others are having, Farther and you will be happier. If you interpret that all these people including myself cannot apply grease and know how to properly put fluid in the rear then you may be right. But I would say that maybe even the majority are looking for a solution that the manual is not providing. This is just one case, where the manual may not be correct or the design may not be adequate. Its only relevant because while you seem to have no problem others do and by your first post it offers no solutions and takes a higher ground that you "the original poster" are doing something wrong, not the manual not the designers. I have seen to many examples of poorly designed products or pieces of products that cause them to fail to say that there is no other solution than, factory.

I know this is going to get me in trouble but  Please: note this in your manual, I am perfect and  all the other morons that are having a problem, are not, I don't like research either. There IS no problem the manual is perfect the check is in the mail, the government is not monitoring us and all is well, you know the rest.

[ragincajun]

Sorry my post went so far afield.  I really do post stuff to try to get legitimate answers to.  It appears the forums don't take kindly to people like me that love to ride, love their Valk, want to keep it up but unfortunately don't have a mechanical bone in their body.

I noted that I did do a search and saw what Robert did, tons of info.  Yes, I did read many posts but the problem is that (A) eventually I want to leave the computer and actually ride and (B) the deadline where the bike goes to the mechanic (today in fact) so I didn't have days or weeks on end to continue research and hoped for some goodwill info here. Unfortunately, like my petcock post, there seem to only be a couple of people willing to help mechanically challenged people like myself.  Lesson learned for asking. 

[9Ball]

I'm almost done beating a dead horse, but the problems people are experiencing with the final drive don't seem to be caused by actually following the maintenance instructions for assembly and lubrication provided in the Honda Service Manual.  I believe (and have nothing to back this up other than what I read and interpret from reading these posts) that it is more likely that the problems are from not following the service manual.

I'd still like to know what the error you describe in the drive shaft lubrication instructions is so that I can note it in my manual...

Now that really is funny, just read the manual and do what is says it works for you, that's great, really, Ignore the 26 pages of problems others are having, Farther and you will be happier. If you interpret that all these people including myself cannot apply grease and know how to properly put fluid in the rear then you may be right. But I would say that maybe even the majority are looking for a solution that the manual is not providing. This is just one case, where the manual may not be correct or the design may not be adequate. Its only relevant because while you seem to have no problem others do and by your first post it offers no solutions and takes a higher ground that you "the original poster" are doing something wrong, not the manual not the designers. I have seen to many examples of poorly designed products or pieces of products that cause them to fail to say that there is no other solution than, factory.

I know this is going to get me in trouble but   Please: note this in your manual, I am perfect and  all the other morons that are having a problem, are not, I don't like research either. There IS no problem the manual is perfect the check is in the mail, the government is not monitoring us and all is well, you know the rest.

I guess I wadded up your panties...sorry.

Nobody said I was perfect or that you seem to interpret that I'm calling other morons.  Couldn't be further from the truth.  Try actually reading my posts....there isn't a condescending word or negative comment, unlike you posts.

I dislike generalizations and you still haven't answered where the error is regarding lube.  I'm very willing to learn and mean nothing other than to please be specific so that I have the info I need.

You are very quick to have a bad temper.  I've seen this many times.  Resorting to condescending comments and trying to brow beat others to your position are the norm.  I should have known better.

Good luck to the OP...nothing was meant to discourage you from asking any questions or receiving help.  I tried in my own way.

To Robert, bite me....you're forever blocked to me so I don't have to read your mean spirited attacks.  Don't bother replying unless you just have to get the last word in...if so, good for you.

[Robert]

Sorry my post went so far afield.  I really do post stuff to try to get legitimate answers to.  It appears the forums don't take kindly to people like me that love to ride, love their Valk, want to keep it up but unfortunately don't have a mechanical bone in their body.

I noted that I did do a search and saw what Robert did, tons of info.  Yes, I did read many posts but the problem is that (A) eventually I want to leave the computer and actually ride and (B) the deadline where the bike goes to the mechanic (today in fact) so I didn't have days or weeks on end to continue research and hoped for some goodwill info here. Unfortunately, like my petcock post, there seem to only be a couple of people willing to help mechanically challenged people like myself.  Lesson learned for asking.  

Sorry if you think it has gone astray or that your question was not answered. What you got was opinions and solutions that people do that did work for them. Some factory some not so much but you are the decider of your maintenance, individuality, is the name of the game. No you dont want to be reading all day and no matter what you decide you need to be diligent to make sure your idea works. It is part of doing your own wrenching, its just not a yes and no answer sometimes. Like the oil topic there is really no correct answer its what works for you, its percentages.

Bel ray is not the same the as moly and so you don't have to read all day ones basic ingredient is Moly the other is Aluminum. One is black "moly"one is "blue" Bel Ray  Factory calls for Molly some including myself prefer Bel ray. In your time find out the difference and what works for you. If I did not understand the intent of your question please forgive me and reform the question so as to redirect the thoughts and answers, I don't know of anyone here who would not love to help. We just need to understand the real question, and the amount of experience, then answers can be tailored, its not like talking face to face. If you see 26 pages of drive line discussion maybe the answer you seek is not a one liner?