aux power question

[westsidevalk]

I want to connect a trigger wire to the aux power wires. Can i splice the single trigger wire to both pos and neg aux wires?

[sandy]

Are you triggering a relay? The acc wires are only good for 5 amps. If "yes" then yes, that's how you wire it.

[jimmytee]

I want to connect a trigger wire to the aux power wires. Can i splice the single trigger wire to both pos and neg aux wires?

You might want to clarify your question. What exactly are you wiring up? Your question literally asks whether you can splice the single trigger wire to both the positive and negative wires and the straight answer to that is NO.

[PhredValk]

Actually, there are several connectors that you could use, depending on the model of the bike and what options you have. I tried the Aux connector on my 99 IS and it didn't work, so I grabbed one of those needle circuit testers and went hunting. I found two that were hot with the key in Run and Aux and one each that were hot only with Run or Aux respectfully. Decide what you want exactly, and go looking.
Fred.

[westsidevalk]

Thanks for the answers . I am just learning all of this today, and its all new to me.
I did not realize I did not need to use the ground lead  on the accessory terminal at the time I asked that question.
I ended up soldering  a 3.5 mm bullet connector to the trigger wire of the centech fuse block and plugging it into the accessory lead, worked good.
I watched two you tube videos on how to solder wires, and I was able to power up both switched and unswitched power with the fuse block using my phone charger as a tester.

I was able to power up a mini amp through the block but couldnt get sound through the speakers.

I do have a few new questions though

1. Am I supposed to screw the nylon nuts until they cinch tight on the O ring connector and terminal post?  I haven't cut any of the wires to length yet, and I was thinking one I got the wiring figured out I would just remove the O ring  terminals, cut, and re-crimp with a dab of solder for good. Can I reuse the nylon nuts or are they a one shot deal?

2. I did hear a slight "pop"  at the fuse-block when I switched on the power after I tried to get the speakers to work a second time, checked all the fuses and they seem okay. If a fuse of this type is blown is will have a severed connection in the middle like other fuses, is that correct.

3. I tried to heat shrink one of the connections with a soldering iron but it didnt shrink enough, not sure what Im doing wrong.

4. Any speculation on why I would have power to the amp, but no sound through the speakers when wired up.

5. In order to route the speaker wiring, etc should I remove the tank, or is it possible to loosen it and lift it enough the be able to ziptie the harness to the frame?

6. Thanks for everyone help, Its taking a while to do all this, and get past the fear of ruining the bikes electrical system...half the battle is the vocabulary.  last night I opened the directions for the aux lights, remove stock mounting plates, use nylon  shims and use use plastic spacer between mounting tabs, took me 25 minutes just to learn the names of all the parts...but now I know.

Thanks again, Im going to be around with more questions...tomorrow Im going to try to isolate the problem with the amp.

Is there something I can buy that will tell me weather or not I have current through a wire?

[gordonv]

#2: the relay "clicking" closed. Most likely not the fuse blowing.

[jimmytee]

What makes it hard in answering your questions is that I'm not sure what you have wired up and to what you don't have wired up. I can try and guess by your descriptions ,but I'm guessing. The trigger wire you refer to from the accessory wire would be used to turn the relays on and off. Do you have power wired in to the relays that'll actually power your devices? Again, the trigger is only for operating/energizing the electrical coils on the relays . Those relay coils when energized, will cause an electromagnetic field to generate, closing the relay contact points. Think of the relay coils as your finger on a light switch. All the coils are doing is turning on or off the switch. You do have to have the switch wired with power to be switched on to the amp, lights etc.... You may know all this, I'm not sure.
The wire nuts should be able to be reused. Depends I suppose on how cheaply they are made. Heat shrink comes in many different sizes and you want to use the smallest size that'll fit. Heat guns are the best to use for heat shrink, but a well skilled lighter will do pretty good.
As far as running the wires under your tank, that depends on the wire and your skill at fishing it through. I like to have
my wires protected with an outside jacket of some kind.  If your wires have a thick enough jacket maybe ok. Keep in mind heat and abrasion concerns. Not a lot of real high temp stuff to worry about under the tank.
I have multi meters at my disposal , and if you're in the habit of doing any electrical work, an inexpensive meter would be a worthwhile investment.
If you are indeed getting power to your amp, then are your speakers hooked up right? Did you have a source,ie music
properly plugged into and playing when you were having no sound?

[westsidevalk]

Thanks for the replies guys.
The trigger is for relay connected to a centech fuse block.I get power from that.
Im trying to avoid asking questions i can answer using search and tech pages.

My tenative plan now is this:

Disconnect only the back center tube from fhe tank to buy me enough room to get zipties around the frame and mwake a harness  Using electrical tape .
Im not sure if thats the best way, based on what was said about the heat and friction in the vicinity.
Any ideas. Im wiring two speakrr cables pluz remote power switch plus 12 v cig. Lighter for phone charging.
In the near future i want to power aux lights  and rivco horns.

Thats good to know about the relay sound

Still trying to identify good way to place fuseblock, im thinking in fhe tool tray under the tank velcro?

Thanks for your support,  

Davidplease excuse the typos etc im sending this from my phone late

[jimmytee]

An inexpensive wire protector would be the what looks like small corrugated piping. It is usually about a 1/2" or less in diameter, comes in 4 to 10 ft lengths usually coiled up. It is split so fitting your wire inside is easy and it can be found at Radio Shack, or in most automotive parts stores in the electrical section.