Raining Gasoline

[Paxton]

Hello fellow Valkyrians!  

BACKGROUND:
My 2000 Standard always ran like a champ; not a single leak. Recently, she has sat covered in the garage for 10 months.

FINDINGS:
I left the state with the intention of returning in 10 weeks. However, it has been 10 months since I tried to start her.  

As anticipated, I had to jump the old battery and after a few turns, she came alive.  

However, within the first 10 seconds gasoline started to pour from all over the under-tank and I shut her down.  
The leak stopped.

My expert mechanic's theory is that the carburetors' seals and/or gas line (s) might have become brittle.

It pains me to see her sitting in the driveway waiting for the needed TLC.
Where should I begin? Any thoughts or recommendations?

Your input is appreciated!

Thanks!

Paxton

[Michvalk]

My first thought was the gas line. They can become very brittle when setting, especially if there was carb cleaner in the system. Second thought, could be a stuck float. The overflows are routed to the center of the carb bank to the rear of the bank, and are kind of hidden when the tank is on the bike. I a float is sticking,  the fuel will run out in the same place as a cracked main line. You could try starting again, and tap the carbs with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to loosen the floats. Would be easier if you could see which float is sticking, by seeing which drain tube the fuel is coming out of. Just need to get down there and look. I assume you are not having any issues with your health that would preclude messing with it. If you are, just leave it to the mechanic

[Oklahoma_Valk]

You have a stuck float valve, friend.

More than likely you should prepare to do a complete carb overhaul....or get to know someone who has done one in your area and can help you out. redeye tech is the source for the parts you'll need.

best of luck

okie

[indybobm]

When I bought my second Valk in Georgia two years ago, it was doing the same thing. Since I got a good price on the bike I bought it anyway. Trailered it the 400 miles home and it has never leaked again. The movements of the floats during the trip knocked off whatever crud was on the float needles. Never had to pull the carbs.

[F6Dave]

If it rained gas from under the tank, and stopped when you shut it down, it sounds like a petcock or more likely fuel line issue.  If it stopped after shutdown then the petcock may have done its job, so maybe there is a bad hose or connection near the petcock.

[indybobm]

When I bought my second Valk in Georgia two years ago, it was doing the same thing. Since I got a good price on the bike I bought it anyway. Trailered it the 400 miles home and it has never leaked again. The movements of the floats during the trip knocked off whatever crud was on the float needles. Never had to pull the carbs.

Mine was dumping gas all over the top of the engine. It was the float valve(s). The leak stopped when I turned off the engine (stopped the vacuum from #6 to the petcock).
I am not suggesting to put it on a trailer and take it for a trip.
I am saying that if there is some debris keeping the float vavle(s) open, it can be dislodged without having to pull the carbs.

[John Schmidt]

Here's a method to try by pulling some debris without pulling the carbs. This has worked for me on a few bikes in the past, worth a try.

If you don't have one, first get a MityVac. Use one of the connectors supplied with it to hook to the carb drain that drops below the bike. Pump up a few PSI of suction, then open a single drain screw on one carb. The suction creates a degree of disturbance in the bowl by the gas as it rushes out the drain and into the MityVac cup. Once that carb is drained, close the drain screw and move to the next carb. Repeat the process of pumping up some vacuum in each carb individually then closing the drain. If there's a lot of debris in the bowls, you'll see some in the MityVac catch bowl. This doesn't take long and is worth a try before going through the hassle of pulling the carbs. Afterward, start the bike and let run long enough to fill the carbs again. I'd add some Techron before restarting, shake the bike a bit to be sure it's mixed good. Let it run a bit, shut it down and let it sit a day or so to allow the additive to work.

Sometimes this is all that's needed to clear out debris in the carb bowl. Sometimes it doesn't help enough...but doesn't hurt to try. 

[Patrick]

OK, so you didn't have a fuel-lock ? It fired right off and ran, you just had an external fuel leak ? Then I would suspect the petcock or fuel line. But, the source of the leak needs to be found. Its makes things easier to fix if you know where to go to work. Before Its started again, I would recommend removing all the sparklers and turning the engine over to make the cylinders are clear. These bikes sit for months at a time without any issues.

[Thrud]

Fuel leak may be attributed to bad o-rings in your carb fuel rails.  They do dry out and shrink if the bike sits for a prolonged period of time.  This happened to me after an extended Winter downtime.

Get your carb o-ring kit here:
http://redeye.ecrater.co.uk/p/2063876/carburetor-o-ring-kit-viton-gf

I did, and I was pleased with the results. 

BTW, while you're in there replace the intake o-rings as well to eliminate a potential source of vacuum leak.

[gordonv]

I would suggest to start at the beginning. Get a Mitty Vac (or like) and apply a vacuum to the petcock so fuel will flow. See if any gas leaks.

If none leaks, then fuel should be flowing to the carbs.

Now the issue would be with the carb, if it is still leaking.

But don't keep it sitting, or you'll most likely get more issue in the near future.

[salty1]

Fuel leak may be attributed to bad o-rings in your carb fuel rails.  They do dry out and shrink if the bike sits for a prolonged period of time.  This happened to me after an extended Winter downtime.

Get your carb o-ring kit here:
http://redeye.ecrater.co.uk/p/2063876/carburetor-o-ring-kit-viton-gf

I did, and I was pleased with the results. 

BTW, while you're in there replace the intake o-rings as well to eliminate a potential source of vacuum leak.

+1 My two cents also! Happens often.

[itsallabouthim]

Its the floats in the carb bowls.  My '99 Standard sits in a hot Florida garage most of its life.  I shut off the fuel valve one mile from my garage and coast home through my subdivision to empty the bowls to prevent hydrolock.  This was an idea I got from this forum when I still had the stock fuel petcock.  When I do get to ride I have taken a bath in gasoline pouring from the right side of the engine.  Besides the fire risk I have ruined several shoes.  Not good. I now have a Pingel fuel valve and the carb floats still stick on occasion.  Tap the bowls with a rubber hammer or let the bike idle a bit and the floats finally come up and the overflow stops.  This is a real PITA especially with ethanol fuel even though I now have a Pingel, 38 jets, Red Eye products and fuel filter installed by a local independent shop.   Between the torrential summer rains and job I don't ride her as much as I would like.   

[custom1]

Changing the petcock won't make the floats not stick open.

I think it is possible that running the bowls dry at the end of each ride is what is causing the floats to stick open. Think about it. You run them dry then the whole time the bike sits they are hanging down and dry. Then you turn on the fuel to start it a week or a month later and expect them to not be stuck at the bottom. They would be far better off up and lubricated with fuel.

[Brian]

If you order the complete carb o-ring kit it does not contain the bowl gaskets. These are a separate set.

[Brian]

Here's a method to try by pulling some debris without pulling the carbs. This has worked for me on a few bikes in the past, worth a try.

If you don't have one, first get a MityVac. Use one of the connectors supplied with it to hook to the carb drain that drops below the bike. Pump up a few PSI of suction, then open a single drain screw on one carb. The suction creates a degree of disturbance in the bowl by the gas as it rushes out the drain and into the MityVac cup. Once that carb is drained, close the drain screw and move to the next carb. Repeat the process of pumping up some vacuum in each carb individually then closing the drain. If there's a lot of debris in the bowls, you'll see some in the MityVac catch bowl. This doesn't take long and is worth a try before going through the hassle of pulling the carbs. Afterward, start the bike and let run long enough to fill the carbs again. I'd add some Techron before restarting, shake the bike a bit to be sure it's mixed good. Let it run a bit, shut it down and let it sit a day or so to allow the additive to work.

Sometimes this is all that's needed to clear out debris in the carb bowl. Sometimes it doesn't help enough...but doesn't hurt to try. 

Awesome idea using the MityVac to pull crap out of the bowls.

[Ricky-D]

Changing the petcock won't make the floats not stick open.

I think it is possible that running the bowls dry at the end of each ride is what is causing the floats to stick open. Think about it. You run them dry then the whole time the bike sits they are hanging down and dry. Then you turn on the fuel to start it a week or a month later and expect them to not be stuck at the bottom. They would be far better off up and lubricated with fuel.

I feel similarly about dry float bowls.

A good preventive measure would be to continuously run some additive in the gasoline to aid in stopping the buildup of crud in the carburetors.

Another good idea, if the bike is going to be stored for a period of time, would be to store the bike upright. Easy to do with a block under each crash bar.

I have found that if I do not ride the bike for a short period of time (3 weeks) that the gas level in the bowls does get lower.  Can't say how much lower but definitely lower.

***

[The Anvil]

You have a stuck float valve, friend.

More than likely you should prepare to do a complete carb overhaul....or get to know someone who has done one in your area and can help you out. redeye tech is the source for the parts you'll need.

best of luck

okie

This is the problem I had and here's what I did to fix it...

I removed the tank and airbox and poured B-12 directly down the fuel line that normally came off of the petcock. I confirmed that it was in fact coming from the overflow line. I suspected the left bank because that's the way it leans on the sidestand so I pinched off the Y that went to the right bank then clamped off the overflow outlet and repeated the pouring of the B12. Sure enough the center carb throat filled up. I let the B12 sit and then rapped on the carb with a wrench for a few minutes. Unclamped the outlet, pulled the spark plug and shot the juice out of the hole. Repeated the pour and this time the throat did not fill. Been fine ever since but I've been running a can of B12 through it every couple of weeks.

I'm not saying this will work for you because mine didn't sit for nearly that long but it would be worth a try. You may require a longer soak or more rapping but it's better than pulling the whole bank.