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Author Topic: Got my Valk, with 47,000 what do you think I should have the dealer check.  (Read 2279 times)
captsharky
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Been riding Honda since 1972.

Sunrise, Florida


« on: July 10, 2009, 06:40:33 AM »

I have ordered tires, and some hard bags, and bidding on some front floorboards on E-bay. Now I guess I should get ready to take it to the dealer and have them check it over, anything you would suggest I have them look at?
I have been looking at oil filters on e-bay, and getting some amsol oil, and doing the oil change my self.
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2001 Valk black Interstate,
1998 T Cobra light bar, Corbin seats  Tank bib, baker air wings, lockable hard bags, luggage rack and trunk. Woody's faring, cruise throttle lock.
Spirited-6
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Nicholasville, Ky.


« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2009, 06:54:27 AM »

Capt, my .02 Go to Walmart, Oil filter ST6607 , ST7317 or ST3593A longer. Rotella Syn. and save on your oil change.  Wink
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Spirited-6
Blackduck KS
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« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2009, 07:06:48 AM »

Just have him look at how nice it looks and change the oil as metioned above from spirited-6, I haven`t had to do much of anything to my 97 except wash and wax it and some minor repair like I need to change the bushing in my clutch handle.
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Strider
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Broussard, Louisiana


« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2009, 07:12:09 AM »

While you are at the dealer, pick up a few oil pan "crush washers".  It is a washer that goes beween the head of the bolt that you will remove to drain the oil and the oil pan itself.  This should be changed out every other oil change or so.

Have the dealer check your splines for wear and the bushings in the rear drive for wear if you haven't changed tires recently - if you have, they should have been checked then.

I also agree with the Walmart post - that is where I get mine.

You shouldn't really need him to check much if you are not noticing anything on the bike.  Like posted earlier, the Valkyrie needs little maintenance - just be sure to lube the splines and all in the rear drive everytime you change tires.  I changed my rear dampner bushings at 80k and will probably change my timing belt at 100k.  Other than that, I had to change a leaking fork seal once and repair a leaking petcock.  That has been it.
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captsharky
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Posts: 189


Been riding Honda since 1972.

Sunrise, Florida


« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2009, 07:15:01 AM »

Thanks, I was going to Wallies world some time this weekend. What about drain plug washers, can they be had at advanced auto parts?

Capt, my .02 Go to Walmart, Oil filter ST6607 , ST7317 or ST3593A longer. Rotella Syn. and save on your oil change.  Wink
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2001 Valk black Interstate,
1998 T Cobra light bar, Corbin seats  Tank bib, baker air wings, lockable hard bags, luggage rack and trunk. Woody's faring, cruise throttle lock.
Dennis Klinefelt
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« Reply #5 on: July 10, 2009, 07:20:15 AM »

Shoptalk has all the info you need to look things over yourself if so inclined...Do you have any idea on the maintenance from the other owner..??..I would pull the rear wheel and check the splines to see that they are lubed ...and all o rings and thrust washer are O.K.... check valve clearance to make sure none are too tight..and mayde sync carbs...and throw in a can of sea foam for the heck of it....Rock on dennis
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Willow
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« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2009, 08:06:08 AM »

Thanks, I was going to Wallies world some time this weekend. What about drain plug washers, can they be had at advanced auto parts

I haven't gotten the crush washers from anyone but Honda.  They're aluminum and that's important so you don't crack the engine casing.
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Bladedog
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Posts: 334


Lompoc, CA (Central Coast)


« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2009, 08:20:40 AM »


Have the dealer check your splines for wear and the bushings in the rear drive for wear if you haven't changed tires recently - if you have, they should have been checked then.

I also agree with the Walmart post - that is where I get mine.

You shouldn't really need him to check much if you are not noticing anything on the bike.  Like posted earlier, the Valkyrie needs little maintenance - just be sure to lube the splines and all in the rear drive everytime you change tires.  I changed my rear dampner bushings at 80k and will probably change my timing belt at 100k.  Other than that, I had to change a leaking fork seal once and repair a leaking petcock.  That has been it.

+1 on the splines.... enduring a painful and expensive lesson myself on that now.  NEVER assume the previous owner, or whatever shop that did their maintenance, lubed the splines!
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Bonzo
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« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2009, 08:46:35 AM »

When I got my '97 standard I pulled the wheels, changed all the fluids and checked all the critical points.
Shop Talk, the tech board and all the folks on the board are irreplaceable for advice and knowledge.
Get to know your machine and stay away from stealers (dealers)
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3fan4life
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Posts: 6958


Any day that you ride is a good day!

Moneta, VA


« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2009, 08:53:12 AM »

Thanks, I was going to Wallies world some time this weekend. What about drain plug washers, can they be had at advanced auto parts?

Capt, my .02 Go to Walmart, Oil filter ST6607 , ST7317 or ST3593A longer. Rotella Syn. and save on your oil change.  Wink


My .02 says to stay with your original inclination to use Amsoil.

And even though they cost more use the Amsoil filters as well.


I realize that others here use the Walmart filters and Rotella oils and feel that they have served them well.

The problem that I have is that neither one is designed specifically for motorcyle use.


I'm not knocking Rotella oil.

It is a good product and in testing it consistently ranks close to Amsoil.

But, it is an automotive oil.

Motorcycle oil also has to lubricate the gear box and clutch.

These are additional tasks that automotive oils don't need to do and as such aren't formulated to do so.

Also, Some automotive oils also use friction modifiers that can be harmful to the clutch.  


As for the filters, no-one will ever be able to convince me that the Walmart filters are the best quality filters that money can buy.

Quality, just isn't Walmart's top priority.

And again this filter is designed for automotive use.

Which means different bypass valve pressures and a filter media that wasn't designed with the filtering of worn clutch material in mind.


So, can you "get by" using oil and filters from Walmart?

Obviously the answer is yes.

The real question is are you really saving money??

A few dollars up front, yes.

But, if the end result is premature clutch, transmission or engine wear the total cost will be greater.



Like I said this is my .02 and I should disclose that  I am and have been an Amsoil dealer since 1994.

But, unless you're buying the product directly from me I have absolutely nothing to gain financially from encouraging you to use Amsoil.

I do so only because I use and believe in the product.

And, as a fellow VALK owner I know how much fun that they are to ride and I'd like to see yours last you a long, long time.



One other suggestion,

Change the air filter.

I finally got around to doing this (the local dealer actually had one in stock. I must've finally beaten that Highbinder guy there) and I cannot believe the difference in the way my VALK runs.

Also, on the last two tanks of fuel my MPG has inceased from 36-38mg avg to 40-41mpg avg (and yes I did think that my calculator had broken).  
  

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Michael K (Az.)
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Glendale, AZ


« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2009, 09:09:02 AM »

Capt, my .02 Go to Walmart, Oil filter ST6607 , ST7317 or ST3593A longer. Rotella Syn. and save on your oil change.  Wink

Seriously!
Also find someone in your area that knows how to lube your drive train. Dealer probably not your best bet here. Many Honda shops have never worked on a Valk due to mechanic turnover. If you find a Valk owner who's willing and enjoys Valk wrenchin, you'll be a happy camper.
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"I'd never join a club that would have me as a member!" G.Marx
captsharky
Member
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Posts: 189


Been riding Honda since 1972.

Sunrise, Florida


« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2009, 12:04:39 PM »

Hi and thanks, I have been using Amsoil filters  and oil in my 1300, not sure my guys has the filters for the Valkyrie, but I cave him a call, we'll see. Just ordered an K& N air filter and plugs. Now when I have both tires in hand I'll see if I can find someone who can mount them and check the splines.
Yes I know I should do all my own work, but I work a full week, and would rather be riding on the weekends. My bad. I do do a lot of my one work, but I don't like doing things alone the first time, my bad again.
Thanks again for the advice.
Sharky


Thanks, I was going to Wallies world some time this weekend. What about drain plug washers, can they be had at advanced auto parts?

Capt, my .02 Go to Walmart, Oil filter ST6607 , ST7317 or ST3593A longer. Rotella Syn. and save on your oil change.  Wink


My .02 says to stay with your original inclination to use Amsoil.

And even though they cost more use the Amsoil filters as well.


I realize that others here use the Walmart filters and Rotella oils and feel that they have served them well.

The problem that I have is that neither one is designed specifically for motorcyle use.


I'm not knocking Rotella oil.

It is a good product and in testing it consistently ranks close to Amsoil.

But, it is an automotive oil.

Motorcycle oil also has to lubricate the gear box and clutch.

These are additional tasks that automotive oils don't need to do and as such aren't formulated to do so.

Also, Some automotive oils also use friction modifiers that can be harmful to the clutch.  


As for the filters, no-one will ever be able to convince me that the Walmart filters are the best quality filters that money can buy.

Quality, just isn't Walmart's top priority.

And again this filter is designed for automotive use.

Which means different bypass valve pressures and a filter media that wasn't designed with the filtering of worn clutch material in mind.


So, can you "get by" using oil and filters from Walmart?

Obviously the answer is yes.

The real question is are you really saving money??

A few dollars up front, yes.

But, if the end result is premature clutch, transmission or engine wear the total cost will be greater.



Like I said this is my .02 and I should disclose that  I am and have been an Amsoil dealer since 1994.

But, unless you're buying the product directly from me I have absolutely nothing to gain financially from encouraging you to use Amsoil.

I do so only because I use and believe in the product.

And, as a fellow VALK owner I know how much fun that they are to ride and I'd like to see yours last you a long, long time.



One other suggestion,

Change the air filter.

I finally got around to doing this (the local dealer actually had one in stock. I must've finally beaten that Highbinder guy there) and I cannot believe the difference in the way my VALK runs.

Also, on the last two tanks of fuel my MPG has inceased from 36-38mg avg to 40-41mpg avg (and yes I did think that my calculator had broken).  
  


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2001 Valk black Interstate,
1998 T Cobra light bar, Corbin seats  Tank bib, baker air wings, lockable hard bags, luggage rack and trunk. Woody's faring, cruise throttle lock.
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14769


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2009, 12:17:00 PM »

not trying to sound sarcastic.  DONT LET THE DEALER CHECK ANYTHING!



These bikes are simple to work on yourself, but simple to mess up if you dont care to do it right, and its my experience the dealers dont care to do it right very often


things I would check

1. remove rear wheel...check splines, driveshaft, u-joint

2. remove gas tank...check air cleaner

3. change engine oil and final drive oil

4. inspect brake pads change if cant see sharp dust grooves

5. flush brake and clutch fluid if brown
« Last Edit: July 10, 2009, 12:24:46 PM by Chrisj CMA CR3M » Logged
captsharky
Member
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Posts: 189


Been riding Honda since 1972.

Sunrise, Florida


« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2009, 01:42:37 PM »

I hear you! Just wish I had all the tools and know how to do all this myself. That's why I am looking for someone that know about these bikes if Ft' Lauderdale. I know I should have a jack by now. My bad.




not trying to sound sarcastic.  DONT LET THE DEALER CHECK ANYTHING!



These bikes are simple to work on yourself, but simple to mess up if you dont care to do it right, and its my experience the dealers dont care to do it right very often


things I would check

1. remove rear wheel...check splines, driveshaft, u-joint

2. remove gas tank...check air cleaner

3. change engine oil and final drive oil

4. inspect brake pads change if cant see sharp dust grooves

5. flush brake and clutch fluid if brown
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2001 Valk black Interstate,
1998 T Cobra light bar, Corbin seats  Tank bib, baker air wings, lockable hard bags, luggage rack and trunk. Woody's faring, cruise throttle lock.
Bladedog
Member
*****
Posts: 334


Lompoc, CA (Central Coast)


« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2009, 02:10:03 PM »

Capt., there's Valk owners everywhere.  After posting my tale of woe with my spline issue, I had no less than THREE unsolicited offers of help from the folks on this board.  One guy even offered up his old pumpkin for free, AND offered to help me switch it out (later he agreed it might be better if I found one in newer shape), but still, nice guy.

GREAT bunch of people in this community.  Send up a flag - you'll get some support. 
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Dan Manko
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Posts: 49


« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2009, 03:02:36 PM »

A bunch of people mentioned the driveshaft and splines on the rear wheel. While your in there pull the driveshaft out of the pinion [on the "pumpkin"]. check the lube in the pinion, make sure the oil seal hasn't moved off the shoulder of the shaft and make sure the 2 holes in the pinion aren't plugged.
Don't ask how I know this.
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3fan4life
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Posts: 6958


Any day that you ride is a good day!

Moneta, VA


« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2009, 04:08:23 PM »

I hear what you're saying about not having the time to work on the bike.

Start slow if you need to, but I encourage you to do some of the maintenance on your own.

That way you know that it's done right.

My mechanical ability is moderate at best.

But, I've discovered that there is alot of help on the tech board, articles, tips, etc.

Also, I have a PDF version of the Honda service manual.

If you can't find one online drop me an e-mail with your address and I'll burn you a copy.


Also, ask around someone there will have a good reputation as a motorcycle mechanic.

Word of Mouth is still the best source for finding a good local mechanic.
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Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2009, 05:00:13 PM »

I have ordered tires, and some hard bags, and bidding on some front floorboards on E-bay. Now I guess I should get ready to take it to the dealer and have them check it over, anything you would suggest I have them look at?
I have been looking at oil filters on e-bay, and getting some amsol oil, and doing the oil change my self.
I would'nt have the dealer check anything. If he's like 80% of the Honda dealers I've been to, they won't know what the hell it is anyway.  I've had employees ask me when I parked it, who makes that?  I only trust my bike to a very good independent shop I know of, He only gets the really  hard stuff, like dismantling and replacing fairing parts and wiring. I'll do the rest of it myself.   cooldude Hoser
« Last Edit: July 10, 2009, 05:09:14 PM by Hoser » Logged

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fudgie
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« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2009, 05:50:48 PM »

not trying to sound sarcastic.  DONT LET THE DEALER CHECK ANYTHING!

 cooldude  cooldude  cooldude
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And we welcome all you sheep...

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Crazy Miles
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Harwich, Massachusetts on Cape Cod


« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2009, 04:55:34 AM »

Hey Todd, I couldn't get through to you on email (rejected) ???  Anyway, about the pipes, If you are still interested, give me a call. Steve 508 432 8036 cooldude Let me know either way?
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