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Author Topic: Rear brake ginding when coming to stop so I did major overhaul  (Read 627 times)
Quicksilver
Member
*****
Posts: 441


Norway Bay, Quebec, Canada


« on: August 29, 2013, 01:20:49 PM »

Pads weren't worn as much as at some times in the past, however seemed like the steel part of the pad was rubbing on the brake disc lip that forms from wear. Changed the brake disc, installed new pads, cleaned all the crud off the caliper and pistons, ran clean brake fluid through entire system and topped up. Brake fluid was an orange color with evidence of crud in the actual caliper chamber.
Replaced left side ALL Balls double bearing with OEM double bearing. Found the ALL Balls was starting to fail, felt slight roughness when rotating it. I was surprised they failed so soon, only 15000 miles on them. Checked lubrication of final drive teeth and pinion, changed final drive oil.
All is smooth now.
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1997  Standard

Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14791


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2013, 01:25:23 PM »

Glad its fixed.  The big mistake many make is installing the bearings until flush with the outer edge of the wheel hub then tapping the dust seal on top of the bearing and then installing the wheel.  When this is done, the bearing is not all the way seated and must be pushed in by the axle spacer and that only applies pressure to the inner race thereby possibly damaging the bearing (shortening its life) I have seen two different Honda Dealerships do this as well.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2013, 01:40:49 PM »


When you pound the bearing in with this Honda driver handle and the correct attachment,
it makes a different sound when it bottoms out... it is all the way in  cooldude



I know RickyD doesn't like to use "pound" and "bearing" in the same sentence  Cheesy

I've posted this before: there's this set at harborfreight that probably has some of the
right adapters for stuff on our bikes:



-Mike
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Quicksilver
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Posts: 441


Norway Bay, Quebec, Canada


« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2013, 05:20:15 PM »

Thanks for the tip on using a 3/4" anchor bolt to remove the bearing, it works slick. I used an old bearing to tap in the new one, working the outside edge and avoiding hitting the inner ring. Hopefully it isn't damaged. I found the bearing stopped at the spacer shaft inside the wheel. I could feel the end of this shaft is a touch above the bottom of the bearing seat. I wondered if the bearing was seated properly with that being the case. The spacer came with that wheel, so I figure it's gotta be the right one.
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