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Author Topic: Rear bearing or drive problem klink klunk sput clank ect  (Read 1179 times)
Rowdy
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Posts: 483


Nerk, Ohio


« on: September 09, 2013, 05:20:06 PM »

 Undecided Undecided  She's been sounding strange - almost 100,000, now I'm getting this strange sound - mechanical noise  Cheesy not feeling anything just the noise - not the engine - I'm hoping it's the rear wheel bearing and not the spline  ??? Only herd when moving  Angry

I've had to change the rear wheel bearing before (long time ago) and did not catch the problem until tire change - a slight vibration was the warning sign - no clink clank clunk sound ??

I've had the U joint go out before a long time agao- that was  extremely noisy during acceleration - not hearing that kind of noise ???  just a clink clank clunk  Embarrassed when moving
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Rowdy
99 Gr / Sv I/S
81 Bl CB900 Custom
73 Bl CL350 (sold)
06 Tit GL1800
86 & 84 Magna's V30, V45, V65 (Sold)
77 GL1000 naked wing (Sold)
86 & 84 GL1200 wings (Sold)



Semper Fi "Leathernec
sandy
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Posts: 5396


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2013, 05:25:39 PM »

U joints don't always make the same noises when they go. It sounds like you're familiar with how to check this stuff out. Let us know what you find.
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Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2013, 06:04:31 PM »

Which side is it coming from?  Left is probly wheel bearing, right could be about anything, the big bearing on the right seldom fails.  Hope it's the left side.  Hoser   ??? ???
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Rio Wil
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Posts: 1357



« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2013, 08:56:34 PM »

How often do you pull the rear wheel and do the final drive spline lube and inspect and lube the drive shaft/pinion cup.......and pull and check the ujoint for slack?

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art
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Posts: 2737


Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2013, 09:45:22 PM »

WOW I just had the same problem. I thought it was the rear drive but it turned out to be a loose rear brake disk. Good luck
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PhredValk
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Posts: 1531


Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2013, 12:47:41 AM »

If it disappears at speed it's probably the left wheel bearing. That's what I heard last July when mine grenaded, like riding on gravel but no vibration. Easy enough to discover by removing the rear wheel.
Fred.
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VRCCDS0237
snglcylndr
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« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2013, 05:07:39 AM »

got the same problem except an intermittent squeal sounding like a break pad lodged against the rotor. replaced the rotor,replaced the pads ,had the pumpkin rebuilt($400) checked the u-joint (absolutely no play) all splines greased and no wear.New wheel bearings , had this apart 1600 times yet it's still there. ready to just ride it until it explodes or locks up and slams me to the ground at 90 miles an hour. Any suggestions are welcome. thwack thwack thwack thwack thwack squeeeaall thwack thwack. how embarrasskin.  Cry tickedoff Undecided Cry   
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Skinhead
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J. A. B. O. A.

Troy, MI


« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2013, 05:20:20 AM »

The way I check wheel bearings is to jack the wheel off the ground, make sure the bike is secure, and then grab the wheel and shake it/check for play.  If the bearing is bad you should be able to feel the play in the wheel.  The additional leverage the wheel provides makes this more effective than checking the bearing after the wheel is removed.
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Troy, MI
BF
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Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2013, 06:05:53 AM »

Does the sound get louder/more amplified when you put on the rear brakes?

If so.....left rear wheel bearing. 
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2013, 07:59:04 AM »

The way I check wheel bearings is to jack the wheel off the ground, make sure the bike is secure, and then grab the wheel and shake it/check for play.  If the bearing is bad you should be able to feel the play in the wheel.  The additional leverage the wheel provides makes this more effective than checking the bearing after the wheel is removed.
That may be a way to see if a bearing is completely shot and about to grenade on you the next time you get up to speed, but I'd rather find out the bearing is on its way out BEFORE there is noticeable play in it.  This is done with the wheel off, rotating the inner race with your fingers.  With a sealed bearing there should be some resistance, no play, and it should rotate perfectly smoothly.
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Rowdy
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Nerk, Ohio


« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2013, 03:03:31 PM »

 cooldude it was the rear bearings - finally got the wheel back & new rear tire with new bearings - put it all back together   Cheesy  and klink klunk sput clank ect gone  uglystupid2
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Rowdy
99 Gr / Sv I/S
81 Bl CB900 Custom
73 Bl CL350 (sold)
06 Tit GL1800
86 & 84 Magna's V30, V45, V65 (Sold)
77 GL1000 naked wing (Sold)
86 & 84 GL1200 wings (Sold)



Semper Fi "Leathernec
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American by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God.

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« Reply #11 on: October 12, 2013, 04:13:19 PM »

cooldude it was the rear bearings - finally got the wheel back & new rear tire with new bearings - put it all back together   Cheesy  and klink klunk sput clank ect gone  uglystupid2
I've done the double row bearing mod on my bikes and hope I never have to worry about that again for a long time.
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Pepmyster
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Go Bonzo, Go!!!!

Mascouche, Quebec, Canada


« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2013, 11:44:18 AM »

 cooldude cooldude cooldude cooldude
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Now this is getting interesting........
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