Things I need to check on my new-to-me Valk....

[sawdustar]

OK.....I decided to get out of the Pulsing brakes thread and start this one so it could be a bit easier to keep up with and refer to later down the road.

I was given a 1997 Valkyrie Touring edition. Locally owned, operated, and garage kept.
71,1xx miles on it.
What I've done so far is:
Changed the oil and filter.
Changed the final drive oil.
Changed the coolant.
Cleaned out the coolant reservoir tank and put it back in service.
Checked brake pads and rotors.
Rear brakes are fine.
Tires will need replacing in the next few months.
Bike runs good, idles good, but my fuel MPG is about 32 to 34 MPG
Checked fluid for clutch, front brakes, and rear brakes. Fluid looks good and clean.
Front brake rotors have now been replaced and new front brake pads installed as well. I put on EBC brake rotors and EBC HH brake pads.


I'm hearing from this forum that I need to:
Check the rear drive splines and drive cup?

I'm still learning about this bike and it's needs & services....so please hang with me.  

[old2soon]

Search on the tech board for the rear end service-O rings and the P cup. Clutch and brake fluid?? Might have some one in or around Conway willing to help or kibbitz.  RIDE SAFE.

[sawdustar]

Search on the tech board for the rear end service-O rings and the P cup. Clutch and brake fluid?? Might have some one in or around Conway willing to help or kibbitz.  RIDE SAFE.

Thank you for the reminder. 
I updated my list to reflect that I've already checked the fluid for clutch and brakes.

[Gryphon Rider]

Clean and lube the lever and brake pedal pivots.
Buy an air filter so you have it ready if needed when you next have the fuel tank off.
Drain the clear hose (well, it's probably brown now) that hangs above the ground in front of the back tire, a.k.a. the "dragon drool" hose.
Check all drive-related splines, etc., and clean out and replace their lubricants when you next change the back tire, which is about the right interval for this.  If you have a car tire mounted in back, you should check everything when the tire is half worn as well, because car tires typically go twice as far.
I replace all brake and clutch fluids whenever I replace front pads.  If their colour is closer to root beer than ginger ale, replace the fluid with new.
Check the tightness of your hard saddlebag hinges, if you have them.  Those are the only fasteners I have ever had loosen on me.
Do the start button maintenance.  See Shop Talk for information.
Check the age of your battery, and decide if it needs attention.

[biguglyman]

32-34 mpg is about right. Depends on how heavy handed you are. It's hard to be good on a Valkyrie. Check splines/cup when you change the rear tire.

[Jess from VA]

Eyeball your top shock bushings for worn out...... it is not just miles, it's age too.

Get rid of your OE elbow/rubber valve stems as soon as possible (at tire change); replace with all steel stems.

Get a can of CRC or Radio Shack electronic cleaner/lube and periodically hit all your handlebar switches and locks with the little nozzle.... esp after rain rides and washes.

Make sure you have a spare key.  One key operates ignition, seat, fork lock, 2 bags, and gas hole.

Periodically eyeball your fork sliders for leaks (or just shiny with oil).

Keep your tire pressures up.

Throw some Seafaom, Berryman's B12, or Techron in your gas every once in a while.  I like to add a healthy dose to a half tank (or less) and run up the freeway to blow things out.  When it gets stored for a couple months or more, use marine grade Stabil and Startron, and fill the tank to top (run this stuff thru the carbs before storage).

When you do an oil change, the crush washer often stays stuck up in the engine pan bolt housing,  don't add another.  Most never change them at every oil change as recommended.  Me neither.

When using the choke, push it down all the way, not just until there's a little resistance.  Or the choke is not on at all.  Try to remember to turn it off when departing, riding all day with it on is not good.

Go around and check all your intake clamps/screws for tightness... they are often miserably loose.  Just snug them up, don't break them.

When putting her away, turn the key off (right) and the petcock off (left) at the same time.... everytime (this is the best way to remember).  Make sure you get a click when turning the petcock to any position.

Order a set of these Orings, and be ready for the next several rear tire changes and spline service.
http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm  Get a tub of Belray Waterproof Grease (and maybe a little tube of Honda Moly Paste). 

Go ahead and get several oil filters, and one air filter (if not a K & N, then get a charger kit).....
be prepared.

Learn to take your sidecovers off the right way (rear to front) so you don't break off any tabs.

Start a log book with all maintenance, tires, oil, filters, valve adjustment, carb synch, and get a factory manual.  All log entries begin with date and miles.  I use a book and a pen, phones get lost or run over.

I have often used Shop Talk articles to assist me, I usually print them out and add them to my shop manual as I need them out in the shed, not upstairs on my computer.

That's all I got for now.

[Denny47]

And after getting the can of CRC as Jess suggested, find the starter relay behind the right side cover, dis-connect and use the CRC on it and then apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the contacts.

[sawdustar]

Looks like I have my work cut out for me.

[Willow]

Let me reiterate that 34 mpg is just fine for a Valkyrie.  Take that off your list.   

[sawdustar]

Let me reiterate that 34 mpg is just fine for a Valkyrie.  Take that off your list.   

Off the list now sir. 

[sawdustar]

OK....now I know that I need new rear shock bushings. These are totally shot.

I'm going out to the shop and have an intimate look at those front brakes.

[Jess from VA]

OK....now I know that I need new rear shock bushings. These are totally shot.
   Yep

Besides getting everything cleaned up and assembled correctly, it is important to clean and grease the pins the pads slide on (as they wear).  These like much of the brakes get cruddy, the pads catch on the pins, do not slide evenly, wear unevenly because crooked, and can damage the rotors, which cost a bunch more than the pads.  I also push the pistons almost all the way out and scrub them shiny.

I have found the best tool for cleaning my brake components is a short pistol rod with (old) brass pistol brushes and gun bore solvent (Shooter's Choice).  When done scrubbing, I use aerosol brake cleaner to blow it all over the place (eye protection good).  Try not to let the calipers hang on the brake lines (for long), bent up coat hangers or something like that are good. You want to copper antiseize bolts and esp that little plug that covers a bolt. (in fact every time I work on the bike I set my copper antiseize out and dab every bolt and screw I remove.)

[Andy Cote]

Timing Belts?

[sawdustar]

ok. Back from the shop now.
Like Jess stated, the pins were corroded causing the pads to be crooked and not move very well. I also lubed the brake handle and that helped a bit too. Even though the brakes work much smoother now, I still have the "grab-n-go" front brakes that makes me feel like they will grab on the thick part of the rotors and put me down on my gravel driveway. I always use my back brake on gravel but I really would like my front to work as smoothly as my brakes on my VTX1300.

I also now know that I will need new front brake pads by the end of this year or sooner. I noticed that the existing front pads aren't wearing evenly. more at the bottom of the pad part nearest the road and not as much at the top of the pad nearest the fork tube. To me, this indicates that the pistons aren't pushing at the same pressure...right??

[Jess from VA]

To me, this indicates that the pistons aren't pushing at the same pressure...right??

I doubt it is a piston thing, more like the pins were corroded and the pads wore unevenly as a result. (this is pretty common).   If you want to get all the use out of those pads fine, but if everything is now clean and lubed, you will still have less than smooth function from the uneven pads.  Once everything else is clean and lubed (and fluid changed/bled), new pads should make all bad symptoms go away.

Going down the gravel drive, or any tricky road surface, the trick is to regulate speed only with the throttle (in a lower gear) and try not to use the brakes at all.   If you must brake, just use the lightest of touches...... small corrections.

[Gryphon Rider]

Timing Belts?

Not something to get anxious about.  I've never heard anyone say, "Holy cow, I'm glad I looked at the belts 'cause they were looking dodgy."
What I HAVE heard a lot of is, "My bike is getting up in miles, so I bought replacement belts, then found the old ones to be in excellent shape, but replaced them anyway."

[Denny47]

I just ordered a set of the rear shock poly bushings from Rich @ www.redeye.ecrater.com  , $15 and change plus $2 and change shipping. Should get them Fri. or Sat. We'll see how long they last..

[sawdustar]

I just ordered a set of the rear shock poly bushings from Rich @ www.redeye.ecrater.com  , $15 and change plus $2 and change shipping. Should get them Fri. or Sat. We'll see how long they last..

Thanks. I just ordered a set of the bushings and the O-ring set for the final drive. I'll get to the final drive a bit later and wanted the o-rings on hand for when I'm ready to check the final drive train.

[sawdustar]

OK...I've got to ask this before I spend the money....

EBC Front Brake Rotors.......MD-1014X

Will those rotors fit my bike? 1997 Valkyrie Touring
I found a pair of new rotors on eBay for $362 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Prolite-Front-Brake-Rotor-Set-of-2-1997-03-Honda-GL1500-Valkyrie-MD1014X-/350635819851?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a386034b&vxp=mtr

[WamegoRob]

OK...I've got to ask this before I spend the money....

EBC Front Brake Rotors.......MD-1014X

Will those rotors fit my bike? 1997 Valkyrie Touring
I found a pair of new rotors on eBay for $362 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Prolite-Front-Brake-Rotor-Set-of-2-1997-03-Honda-GL1500-Valkyrie-MD1014X-/350635819851?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a386034b&vxp=mtr

Yes, Sawdustar, according to EBC's catalog the MD1014X is an OE replacement for:
97-99  GL 1500 C/CT Valkyrie/Valkyrie Tourer
00-03  GL 1500 C/CT/CF/CD Valkyrie/Valkyrie Tourer/Valkyrie Interstate

You can get the catalog here.  It's 4500+ lines long, so just Ctrl-F and look for 'Valkyrie'
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Assets/2012_USA_MC_Brakes.xls

I question EBC's attention to detail, though.
They break up that catalog into four sections:
USA-Built
Street Bikes
Dirt Bikes
ATVs
We, and every other Honda, are listed under 'Street Bikes'   

But I did learn that we do apparently share rotors with these guys:
CBR 600 F4
CBR 900 RR Fireblade
VFR 800 Interceptor
GL 1800/1800 A (ABS) Goldwing  All models

[sawdustar]

Thank you WamegoRob.....Much appreciated. I'll get them order and new brake pads this weekend.

[sawdustar]

OK. I have ordered the EBC MD-1014X front rotors and both sets of EBC HH brake pads. They are scheduled to arrive by Wednesday of next week. The LOML will be REALLY Happy when I can safely stop the bike without the jerky front brakes. 

My new rear shock bushings and final drive O-ring set will be here by Tuesday of next week. I already have a tube of Honday Moly grease and I use all Amsoil products for other lubes and oils.

I'm getting excited about getting things done so I can relax a bit better when riding in heavy traffic and being able to stop without wondering if I'm going to hit someone or go down due to the front wheel brakes letting go or locking up. Up to this point....it's been "leave lots of room" and take it really easy with doing frequent braking...as when the front brakes get warmer from heavy traffic use, the jerkiness of the front brakes gets worse and more drastic. The new rotors and brake pads should resolve that little issue. 

[Jess from VA]

(Going from memory here), I believe you will notice the rotor bolts are Loctited.  I believe the manual says they should be replaced on a rotor swap (and that new ones come pre loctited; blue?).  I think if you don't bugger up the old ones getting them off, then clean, reloctite and properly torque them, you are good to go.  I don't use a torque wrench much, but getting the rotor torques close is probably important.   If I've made any mistake here, someone let me know. 

[sawdustar]

So....do I need to order new rotor bolts then? I've never done a rotor replacement and I've been riding motorcycle for over 45 years. Brake pads and such I've done....

[sawdustar]

Holy Cow..!!!!!!! Replacement rotor bolt for the front is $65.00..!!!!!!! Really.!!!!!???????

It's just 24 M6x17 bolts for heaven's sake!!!!!

Do I really have to replace these when I install the new rotor???

[salty1]

Holy Cow..!!!!!!! Replacement rotor bolt for the front is $65.00..!!!!!!! Really.!!!!!???????

It's just 24 M6x17 bolts for heaven's sake!!!!!

Do I really have to replace these when I install the new rotor???

Not in my opinion. I have reused rotor bolts numerous times with no problems. Be sure you pay attention to torque specs. FWIW! I'm aware of what Honda reccommends, but this is a bit of overkill IMO.  

[HayHauler]

That is my opinion also. Just brush the threads with a wire brush and reapply Lock Tite.

Hay
Jimmyt

[sawdustar]

That is my opinion also. Just brush the threads with a wire brush and reapply Lock Tite.

Hay
Jimmyt

OK...cool. I have some Blue LocTite that I will put on them when I torque them down.
Thanks for helping me save a bit of money.   

[Jess from VA]

Welcome.

[pancho]

There is a bit more to the idea of replacing recommended bolts,, some steel compositions do not have a memory (stainless for one) and bolts stretch as tightened, so reusing a bolt of some particular formulations a couple of times will compromise the shape and integrity. That said, I reuse rotor and caliper mounting bolts,, just pay close attention to torque specifications.

[sawdustar]

There is a bit more to the idea of replacing recommended bolts,, some steel compositions do not have a memory (stainless for one) and bolts stretch as tightened, so reusing a bolt of some particular formulations a couple of times will compromise the shape and integrity. That said, I reuse rotor and caliper mounting bolts,, just pay close attention to torque specifications.

Pancho.....
Thank you kindly sir. Much appreciated.

[sawdustar]

OK...I've modified my list of things I've fixed.

$500 later, I've installed new EBC front brake rotors and EBC HH brake pads. Now comes the 250 miles break in period as per the manufacturer.

Thanks for everyone's input. I now have very smooth front brakes.   

[R J]

OK...I've modified my list of things I've fixed.

$500 later, I've installed new EBC front brake rotors and EBC HH brake pads. Now comes the 250 miles break in period as per the manufacturer.

Thanks for everyone's input. I now have very smooth front brakes.   
[/quote

Refrain from doing any PANIC stops on those new pads.

I put EBC rotors & pads on MGM 46,000 miles ago.    I broke them in as manufacture said and I still have I'm guessing a little more than 1/2 the pad thickness left.      PS: I'm harder than hell on front pads due to the fact I'm more of a front brake stopper than a rear.

[salty1]

OK...I've modified my list of things I've fixed.

$500 later, I've installed new EBC front brake rotors and EBC HH brake pads. Now comes the 250 miles break in period as per the manufacturer.

Thanks for everyone's input. I now have very smooth front brakes.   

Atta boy! Did you use organic or sintered pads?

[pancho]

Now it's time to take a look at that rear.

[sawdustar]

Now it's time to take a look at that rear.

Pancho,
You are so right. I already know that I'll need to do this:

Replace the front fork seals
Install rear shock bushings
Order and replace the final drive rubber pads (anyone got a good resource for these?)
Install the new O-ring set for the final drive that I ordered and now have onhand
Lubricate the final drive splines and such....boy I'm nervous about this one.!!!!

I need to check the swing arm as well to see if it has any slop in it.

I'm struggling with money to keep pushing the repairs and I'm doing as much as I can myself to help save money. So far, I've been able to do it all.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?

[salty1]

Sawduster buy the rubber dampers, if you need them, from HDL. AND, use the later manufactured ones as they fit tighter. I think it's 2000 or newer.

[sawdustar]

Sawduster buy the rubber dampers, if you need them, from HDL. AND, use the later manufactured ones as they fit tighter. I think it's 2000 or newer.

Thank you sir. I will get those ordered sometime next week.

[sawdustar]

OK...new LED bulbs installed in both the speed-o and the tach. Now I can see how fast I'm going at night as well as what RPM range I'm at. Much better now. 

[salty1]

OK...new LED bulbs installed in both the speed-o and the tach. Now I can see how fast I'm going at night as well as what RPM range I'm at. Much better now. 

I put blue LEDs in mine.