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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Main Jets / Carb Bank Rebuild  (Read 1160 times)
Mase
Member
*****
Posts: 81

# 518


« on: October 03, 2013, 06:36:46 AM »

I am gathering parts to rebuild a spare carb bank and have some questions.

The bike has sat for three years with the exception of a ride around the block a year ago.  I am pulling the OE carb bank off to replace it with one I bought 10 years ago and stored for future use.

Specs of bike:

99' Std with approx 85k miles
Desmogged
Viking Pipes & needles
K&N sans pre-filter
Ported/Polished heads
Stock cams
Stock trigger wheel
IS ECM

I have a RedEye rebuild kit and am going to install 38 slows into the new bank.  If the existing 38's are still in good shape I will use those otherwise I will buy new.  I searched the Tech forum regarding "jets" and have read through five pages of posts.  Most of the info is what I remember from 14 years of working on this bike and it was good to see some old names pop up.

What I want to accomplish is installing a set of main jets that maximize hp/tq and gas mileage is the least of my worries.  Over the years I have tried every combination but never did find a perfect solution for this bike.  Mostly at the end the bike was too rich and had some tuning problems due to leaks and over wrenching.  When reading through the archives I noticed one post where a rider claimed that a mech/tuner had him install 98's in all six and then claimed to get 6 more hp.  This was the only reference I have read to that.

Even though FactoryPro recommends installing 98's in the front two cylinders and then changing the other four to 100/102/105 configurations I have never done it.  I am not really interested in swapping out jets over and over again to eek out a hp or two as I have done this over the years to ad nauseam.  IIRC the main jets are currently 102's but not sure.  I have tried 105's before that and they were too rich.

What I am looking for are the experts to chime in and tell me what they believe would be the best set of main jets to use with the equipment I have listed.  Would it be best for a set of stock 100 jets?  Stay with the 102's?  Try the 98's? or a mixture of jets?

I won't be able to set a base line as the bike is not currently running.  I would really like to see some dyno charts from a successful bike that tells me that a particular set of jets and equipment runs well if possible.

Mase

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9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2013, 11:38:06 AM »

I would be inclined to return the carbs to stock configuration...stock needles, 100 mains, and 35 secondary jets and see how it runs.

Once up and running you can either dyno to optimize or monitor the plug color.  You need a baseline and stock is a good place to start.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2013, 01:28:02 PM »

Sage advice, that!

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13520


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2013, 02:35:50 PM »

want more HP u have to let more air into the carbs.
 see my airbox mods
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,8248.0.html

my setup, no dyno run at this time, but runs the best it ever has.
stock heads and cams
viking pipes, ITC ceramic coated.
38 pj   3 turns out, (temps hit 50F a little lean during cruise, need to partially block air passage to airbox to compensate, I ride 20F to 95+F, best jetting is good for 25F degree change + or -)
stock std slide springs, tried I/S springs, better throttle response with std springs.
factory pro needles,  front 2 carbs 4th position, middle and rear carbs 3rd position
120 mainjet  (had 105s drilled them out with 1.2mm bit to 120)
dial-a-jet.
manifolds smoothed to 320 grit, short radius to 80 grit.
dyna ignition w/6 TW, minus 10 degree switch, gives almost same curve as I/S ICM.

my first mods ever was open airbox with glasspac mod, 35 pj, oem needles, 105 mj and dial-a-jet, maxed out at 100HP on dyno.
viking posted dyno with just their needles and pipes and they made 115hp. I have their needles they are dynajet needles and are very rich.

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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13520


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2013, 05:42:42 AM »

with your ported heads you are in experimental range already.
the dial-a-jet system might be what u need.
http://www.thunderproducts.com/dial_a_jet.htm
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Ricky-D
Member
*****
Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2013, 06:58:35 AM »

Quote
Problem is that the bike always ran rich (new from the factory) and I could never find happy ground for it.

How are #38 jets going to help this problem?

In light of the fact that standard jets are #35.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13520


South Jersey


« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2013, 12:04:07 PM »

org dyno HP #. their sensor for torque was broken at the time.

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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Cracker Jack
Member
*****
Posts: 556



« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2013, 03:34:26 PM »

org dyno HP #. their sensor for torque was broken at the time.




Horsepower is a product of torque and rotational speed (RPM). No torque value, no HP value. police
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