Had this happen, opinions wanted

[chief120865]

My wife and I were on a weekend trip. Day one no issues, about 350 miles. Day 2 about hundred miles in and 20 miles post gas fill up we stop for a bio break. Start the bike up head back on road. Power seems down, almost like when my vent line got kinked. Not missing but exhaust seemed louder, but pronounced loss of power. Pull over turn off. Sart back up, rev it up no issues. Back on road no issues rest of trip (200 miles). Some of my ideas:
some crud through carbs??
electronics just got out of sync??
beginnings of vent tube clogging??
Other ideas??
Just seemed weird how quickly it came and went

[Flat6Valk]

I HAD A SIMILAR INCIDENT.  THEN NOTHING FOR WEEKS THEN IT REOCCURED SEVERAL TIMES MORE FREQUENTLY.  THE BOTTOM LINE I HAD A BAD ICM (DYNA) THAT I REPLACED WITH THE OEM ONE.  FIXED IT RIGHT UP. 

[chief120865]

well interesting, I added the dyna over the winter, I was wondering about it. I carry the stock ICM with me just in case. Going on a big 4400 mile trip in about a month, this makes me feel a bit more secure knowing at least someone had the same scenario happen. May I ask how long until it crapped out all together? I really like the unit, so kind of disappointing.

[Ricky-D]

Well that has happened to me on occasion. What it turned out to be was my own inability to recognize the environment I was riding in.  What I mean by this is that while I am riding Along I have failed to notice that I am riding on an incline. Not a great amount of off-level but enough to affect how the bike responds to the throttle.  The result was wonderment, what on earth is wrong.  Give it some gas and there is very little response - no power, just a lot more exhaust noise. Holy cow, my bike is crapping out.  After the passage of some time, more that a few seconds I'd realize what was going on. Whew, nothing wrong with the bike. Just me!

This mainly took place out west, where the long straight roads can lull you into a funk.  Utah, Arizona and Nevada come to mind. 

[dreamaker]

I had a similar problem, the bike seem like it was running out of gas, I shut down the bike and restarted and it ran fine. Turned out it was my Dyna 3000. I switch to a I/S mod. and never had the problem again. Some people have great service with the Dyna but after those incidents I would never use a Dyna again.  When I contacted the Dyna tech guy he was helpful as a piece of wood. He gave me the impression like I was bothering him.  The Dyna has to many issues for long runs. Should do a survey on how many people have had issues with a Dyna 3000 vs. good service

Dan

[Flat6Valk]

I MADE A COUPLE OF WORK TRIPS TO FL FROM OHIO AND TRAILERED BY BIKE.  THE FIRST TRIP THERE THIS WINTER THE SYMPTOMS ONLY HAPPENED ONCE AND I THOUGHT MAYBE THE GAS WAS BAD OR I HAD CONDENSATION IN THE FUEL TANK.  IT DID NOT HAPPEN ANY MORE THAT TRIP.  SECOND TRIP IT HAPPENED AGAIN AND I FIGURED BAD GAS FROM THE STATION CLOSE TO MY MOTEL.  SO I SWITCHED STATIONS AND ALL WAS FINE FOR ABOUT 3 WEEKS THEN IT HAPPENED ABOUT EVERY DAY IT WAS HOTTER THAN 80 DEGREES.  SO I STARTED RESEARCHING AND CHECKING THINGS OUT NEVER FIGURING IT WAS THE ICM.  CHANGED PETCOCK, VACUUM LINES, CHECKED PLUGS, ETC.  STILL HAPPENED WHEN WARM WEATHER.  THEN I CAME HOME AND IT HAPPENED EVEN MORE FREQUENTLY.  I HAPPENED TO READ A POSTING ON THIS SITE AFTER I STATED MY PROBLEM AND ANOTHER RIDER SUGGESTED THE ICM AND BINGO THAT IS WHAT IT WAS.  LUCKY FOR ME I HAD A SPARE FROM ANOTHER DYNA INSTALL ON MY SECOND VALK.  I FEEL LUCKY.  SO IF YOUR DYNA IS FAULTY I WONDER WHAT IS GOING ON.  THOSE ICM SHOULD LAST A VERY VERY LONG TIME.

[qc-teky]

 I have had the same problem with my first Dyna 3000. Usually poped up after a gas and go. I would notice the drop in power and change in exhaust note - but I would go ahead and ride for a little bit - too let the Dyna "cool down". Then I would pull over some where safe, turn the key off, then back on, and restart the bike. This was annoying but it always ran fine afterward. If I stopped for more than 10 - 15 minutes, (depending on how hot the outside temp was) it didn't happen. When it was cold outside, it didn't happen. I bought a new Dyna 3000 on ebay, for $249 I think, and haven't had a problem with it. I probably had 40,000 miles or more
on the old one and still have it in the saddle bag as a back-up - I never had the feeling it was going to just quit completely. It seemed as thought it was just going into a "safety-retard" mode when it got hot.  John

[Willow]

I've had that happen a few (less than 10) times over the course of 115,000 miles with my Dyna.  I noticed it usually happens when I have turned on the key and immediately hit the starter.

When it has happened I just pull the clutch in, turn off the key, wait a few seconds, turn the key back to on, release the clutch and happily motor on down the road.

Come to think of it, it's been a long, long time since it has acted up.

[Tundra]

Really funny you all mentioned this...I had my first experience yesterday on my lunch ride. (I think) I did not test my dyna, so I have no way of knowing for sure. Rode about 260 miles, I was on my last gas stop about 5 miles from home. Gased up and when I left the bikes tone seemed louder, loss of power, similiar to running out of gas. I thought I had a bad tank of gas, as the bike ran great all day. I stumbled home and parked it to tend to my sunburn. Drained the bowls this morning and found nothing unusual, started up and ran fine all day, another 200 miles.
  Question to those that posted...How do you know it's the dyna-ignition?

[dreamaker]

I don't recall how I figured it out, it would intermittent issues. I put the stock mod back in and I never had the problem again. I then switched to a I/S mod.

Dan

[Willow]

Question to those that posted...How do you know it's the dyna-ignition?

Because it only happens with Dyna ICM's?

Can't remember where it was (perhaps on doc from Dynatek) that I read the instruction to shut off and restart.  Restarting always takes care of it.

I could prove it out by putting the OEM module back in, but I would have to wait maybe twenty thousand miles before I was confident that it wouldn't happen again.  I really don't want to run the OEM for six months.

[dreamaker]

When I first got my Dyna, I had a 6 deg trigger wheel on my bike, the bike wouldn't even start. I thought the Dyna was bad, so I put the stock mod back in and it ran fine. I decided to take the 6 deg. wheel out and tried the Dyna again and it worked fine. At that point I got the impression the the Dyna doesn't play nice with modifications. The one thing I didn't like about the Dyna, I noticed when I got it was the design of the case where the controls were.  With the lip on top I felt it would collect water like a cup, even though the controls are water sealed, depending on quality control. They should have had a boot or a cover to insure no moisture would get in. I had mine about 6 months before it started to fail. I think the Dyna guys have the best intentions but it has to many bugs. You spend $300 you want something you don't want to play around with and wounder if you got a good one or not.

Dan

[Tundra]

Dreamaker, Willow,  I am going to try that if it happens again. Shutdown and re-start. Sounds like a re-boot . I have heard of problems with the earlier Dyna's, I thought they corrected that. This is a new one to me, I figured I'd try them again when their prices dropped so much.

[dreamaker]

In a passed thread someone mentioned as they were cruising they hit the kill switch on and off and let out the clutch and it was OK. I never tried this.

Dan

[chief120865]

I have also had this symptom happen since installing the dyna: every 10 or so starts, it will crank shortly, sputter. Crank again fine, just seemed cold. But immediately after starting I noticed my trip meter and preset radio stations get erased from memory. Related? Maybe 2 seperate symptoms?

[Ricky-D]

Replacing the Honda ignition with an aftermarket ignition system is something I never understood.  The Honda ignition is a bulletproof capacitive discharge ignition system which has been described as the "best of the best" and is also an expensive system for Honda to have used in the Valkyrie. Honda could have used a cheaper ignition system but they didn't.

Any advantage gained from a switch-out to the Dyna ignition is absolutely minimal and as evidenced here in this thread and in many other threads dealing with the same subject.  Of course, I admit there will be many "seat of the pants" dyno's that will swear remarkable gains. "Misery loves company" is what I say to them.

[Robert]

To Ricky D if you haven't tried it dont knock it. The Dyna ignition in the Valk IF WORKING PROPERLY is the best choice. Honda doesnt make their icms and they have the government to answer to so the advance curves are a trade off. One thing not subjective, like the butt dyno is fuel mileage, which with the Dyna is on average 3 to 5 mpg better than the stock unit. Yes you can put a trigger wheel on there and get a mileage increase but its not the same. The curves on the Dyna really make the bike come alive and more responsive without the feeling a trigger wheel does. Because the advance comes in at the right time. If you have done modifications to the bike you can adjust the timing even more and customize it to the bike. If the Dyna works, I also have had the problem with having to shut off the bike plus more, then thats the way to go. I have also thought about putting in a whole system including pickups because the difference was that good. The factory system is not state of the art may have cost some money to design but better systems are definitely able to be made. Our valks for the most part are old tech and not new including the ignition.

[chief120865]

Sorry my post elicited such a strong response. Just had this issue, used this friendly board to help me find resolution. The post was exactly that, an outreach for help and opinion of the symptom I deescribed...I didn't ask for an opion of why the stock unit was better/worse, etc.
My personal opinion--starts better, runs better, pulls harder, no flat spots, and I went from 36 mpg to 41 mpg. If it does cause me any additional problems I'll be disappointed to have to go back to stock because ot the gains i got out of it, but really a simple swap. I too was a serious doubter until the very instant I installed and ride.

[John Schmidt]

I'm too darned cheap to put out the $$ for a Dyna. So, I picked up...rather my wife did as a present, an I/S ICM off a wreck with about 3k on the odo. I use that along with a 4 deg. T/W and I/S carb springs, K&N filter w/o the prefilter, and an aftermarket exhaust. Result....at speeds at or just under 3k rpm I'll get 41-42 mpg on trips. If I run hard(for me at my age that's above 75), it drops to the mid 30's, which is fine with me. Oh...also have #38 slo's installed also. I still have the original ICM that came with the bike, but the I/S has been in there for about five years and all together...I'm happy with the performance. Plus, even with radiator pods and a HD fairing added, and my big gunboats sticking in the wind, she still will flat git on down the road.

[Ricky-D]

John Schmidt, you are making the wisest decision I assure you.

I know the following is what Robert says but his experience just validates what I say:

To Ricky D if you haven't tried it dont knock it. The Dyna ignition in the Valk IF WORKING PROPERLY is the best choice. Honda doesnt make their icms and they have the government to answer to so the advance curves are a trade off. One thing not subjective, like the butt dyno is fuel mileage, which with the Dyna is on average 3 to 5 mpg better than the stock unit. Yes you can put a trigger wheel on there and get a mileage increase but its not the same. The curves on the Dyna really make the bike come alive and more responsive without the feeling a trigger wheel does. Because the advance comes in at the right time. If you have done modifications to the bike you can adjust the timing even more and customize it to the bike. If the Dyna works, I also have had the problem with having to shut off the bike plus more, then thats the way to go. I have also thought about putting in a whole system including pickups because the difference was that good. The factory system is not state of the art may have cost some money to design but better systems are definitely able to be made. Our valks for the most part are old tech and not new including the ignition.

Roberts own words belie what he is trying to communicate in the above quote:

"I would try another module to see if that is really your problem. But I have a standard and of course it came with the standard module which I wouldn't replace it with I would do the interstate or personally the best choice is the Dyna. Some bikes dont play well with the Dyna mine is one of them and I have had to replace mine 5 times. It has never let me down on the road but I get a miss at 1800 rpm, above and below is fine. They are no longer going to make them and when the supply is gone they are gone thats it. I have worked with Dyna in the past and have eliminated some problems to make the thing work with more bikes. So when my last Dyna unit went I wasn't a happy camper I really dont like repairing the same issue more than once so I went with the interstate ICM. I bought it from Pinwall for 180 and I would say that with a 4 degree advance on the timing wheel is ok. Without advancing the timing the fuel mileage on the Valk is not good, by advancing the timing you will increase the mileage. The interstate module did just that but like I said it also took 4 degrees advance on the wheel. This advance curve is pretty close to the Dyna which is the best choice. So there you have it from someone that has had all three and lived with them for a time."

And this which is a pretty good testament from Robert about why you should stay with the Honda ignition.

"Dont get me wrong I really liked my Dyna 3000 when it was working but after 3 failures in 6 years (not including the 2 to set the bike up) I have had enough. All I would need is this thing to fail me when I was away from home and that would really piss me off. So I decided to go to a interstate icm and back to the timing wheel."

I don't have to experience something to be able to recognize it for what it is and to know what I'm talking about (Dyna crap). So, I say go "Honda" all the way!  You can do no better than Honda. It's estimated that with normal care you will get upwards of 300K miles from your Valkyrie. Why mess with success?

 

[Willow]

Replacing the Honda ignition with an aftermarket ignition system is something I never understood.  The Honda ignition is a bulletproof capacitive discharge ignition system which has been described as the "best of the best" and is also an expensive system for Honda to have used in the Valkyrie. Honda could have used a cheaper ignition system but they didn't.

Any advantage gained from a switch-out to the Dyna ignition is absolutely minimal and as evidenced here in this thread and in many other threads dealing with the same subject.  Of course, I admit there will be many "seat of the pants" dyno's that will swear remarkable gains. "Misery loves company" is what I say to them.

Huh!!?  10% improvement in fuel mileage (pays for  itself).  The ability to set the rev limiter.  The ability to choose among several curves. 

I have 116,000 miles on my Dyna.  I speak from experience.

"Misery loves company"???  Well, "ignorance is bliss".

[Ricky-D]

Huh!!?  10% improvement in fuel mileage (pays for  itself).  The ability to set the rev limiter.  The ability to choose among several curves. 

I have 116,000 miles on my Dyna.  I speak from experience.

"Misery loves company"???  Well, "ignorance is bliss".

Yep, I couldn't agree with you more. I get the same 10% savings from my trigger wheel which cost me 20 bucks.  It's been a good experience.  Not that I can say the same for a lot of Dyna comments about all the problems they are experiencing. Just read the threads and you'll see for yourself.

Hope you continue being one of the lucky one's whose Dyna continues without problems. It won't be much longer until you will have no recourse but to go back to the "old stone axe and chisel" Honda ICM when and if the Dyna fails.  They are stopping production due to difficulties with the unit.

***

[2lane]

Guess I need to know this. What is the dyna3000 and the ICM ??????

[Ricky-D]

The Dyna is a aftermarket ignition replacement that sells for $300 and now, some times, for as little as $200. It allows for adjustment of some functions of ignition that Honda has preset in their Ignition Control Module(ICM)

Some will tout the versatility of the Dyna like the belt you wear having a bunch of holes.

Personally, my opinion is it is a waste of money and there have been quite a few remarks on this forum reporting failures and dissatisfaction with the unit.

You should investigate to find out about the Dyna and make the decision to switch to one yourself.

I think it's another "darkside" loaded question with staunch supporters of the change.

***

[Madmike]

Guess I need to know this. What is the dyna3000 and the ICM ??????

ICM = Ignition Control Module