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Author Topic: removing rear caliper  (Read 1308 times)
Roadog
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Posts: 325


« on: October 12, 2013, 04:43:21 PM »

  The Honda service manual says to remove rear wheel to remove rear caliper,...is it possible to remove rear caliper without removing rear wheel ?   Please advise and trhanks.
Roadog.
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14791


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2013, 04:54:52 PM »

Im almost certain you have to rotate the caliper plate off of the rotor to get the caliper off the plate.  That means the axle has to come out.  You may be able to work it by removing the caliper lock pin, then the axle, rotate the plate off the rotor and then re insert the axle without technically removing the wheel, but if you are going that far you might as well just flop the wheel off and service the splines.....unless its been just a very short time since that was done.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15240


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2013, 06:43:50 PM »

Yes, I just did it, without removing the mounting plate or the axle. You have to remove the two pins that the caliper floats on, the upper left one comes out rather easy. The upper right one...not so much. They're #9 & 11 in the linked picture below. No. 11 has a small rubber boot(#10) over it that runs through the entire hole it's mounted in so don't try to pull it out. Look closely at #11 and you'll see it is threaded with lands on it for an open end wrench. I believe it's a 12mm wrench but just try it to find out for sure. Before messing with #11, remove #14 and remove at least the outer pads. I'd also compress the pistons first, might remove some fluid from the rear reservoir down by the foot peg first....then remove the outer pad(I also removed the inside pads for more wiggle room). Then back out #11, with the pads removed that should give you enough wiggle room to lift the caliper off the mounting plate and rotor, fully exposing it. If you aren't concerned with loss of fluid, then before doing any of the above just remove the brake hose and stick a bolt in it to keep it from dripping all over everything. Then when you accomplish the above, you can completely remove the caliper without pulling the axle or the thick mounting plate. Keep in mind, #11 won't come all the way out due to the boot. It will come out far enough to get the caliper off....be patient. Don't replace the pads until you get the caliper back in place and #11 at least started. Hope this helps.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/GL1/gl37.jpg
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2013, 03:48:29 AM »


I jack my bike up till there's no weight on the rear wheel, but it is still touching
the ground. Then I take my shocks off and use the jack to sink the bike enough that
the muffler is not in the way of the axle. Then I bump my axle out far enough to take
the caliper off. A lot less work than removing the wheel, but I still loosen and retighten
"the four nuts" when finishing up...

-Mike
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2013, 04:40:12 AM »

I go the same route as Mike if I just want to service the brake, it goes quickly once you know the procedure and are prepared........  I have not done "the four nut" when doing this as the axle never comes out, but will think about it and may add it to list.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Roadog
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Posts: 325


« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2013, 05:37:29 AM »

   THANKS guys,..all good suggestions . 

Roadog
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