Click under RH cover then no start, no lights, 1998 Valkyrie

[Tropic traveler]

Strange thing happened the other day while cranking up Kim's 1998 Valk. Pulled in the clutch, hit the start button then...click... Came from under the RH cover, no start, no lights. Turned key off then on and nothing, no lights, no start, no click either.
Fiddle farted with the switches, popped it in neutral, brought up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch even though it was is neutral, switched on the key... normal start.  ???  Tried it again with stand up, in gear, clutch pulled in, started no problem. Pulled the RH cover, cleaned every contact & fuse connection I could see with Deoxit, everything looked great & was squeaky clean when I got through. No more problems on the next ride until......
Went to Daytona today, 4 trouble free starts until we got home & stopped at the store. Same thing. Audible click under RH cover, no lights, no start. Did the switch fiddle fart routine again... cranked right up.
1998 Tourer, stored inside, 33,000 miles. Replaced RH switch pod with brand new Honda part 4 years ago. the neutral light does not come on every time even though bike is in neutral, just pop it back into 1st find neutral again & it comes right back on. 
Any suggestions as to what is at fault here??

[Valkpilot]

Strange thing happened the other day while cranking up Kim's 1998 Valk. Pulled in the clutch, hit the start button then...click... Came from under the RH cover, no start, no lights. Turned key off then on and nothing, no lights, no start, no click either.
Fiddle farted with the switches, popped it in neutral, brought up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch even though it was is neutral, switched on the key... normal start.  ???  Tried it again with stand up, in gear, clutch pulled in, started no problem. Pulled the RH cover, cleaned every contact & fuse connection I could see with Deoxit, everything looked great & was squeaky clean when I got through. No more problems on the next ride until......
Went to Daytona today, 4 trouble free starts until we got home & stopped at the store. Same thing. Audible click under RH cover, no lights, no start. Did the switch fiddle fart routine again... cranked right up.
1998 Tourer, stored inside, 33,000 miles. Replaced RH switch pod with brand new Honda part 4 years ago. the neutral light does not come on every time even though bike is in neutral, just pop it back into 1st find neutral again & it comes right back on.  
Any suggestions as to what is at fault here??

When I had a similar situation it was the battery but it wouldn't ever start, period.  It would just click and I would lose everything.  After a recovery period, I would regain lights, but never cranking power.

In this case, my suspicion is that one or the other of the switches needs cleaning or maintenance.

I'm assuming when you cleaned all the contacts under the RH cover that you included the connector on the starter relay.  If not, look there too.

Also, check the negative and positive connections at the battery and where they connect to the bike for incomplete or corroded connections.

I still wouldn't be surprised though, to find it's the battery.

[Gryphon Rider]

I'm putting my money on the start button.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

[Hoser]

"I'm assuming when you cleaned all the contacts under the RH cover that you included the connector on the starter relay.  If not, look there too."
I'll bet this is the problem.  Been there, done that.  Exact symptoms I had.  Hoser

[Tropic traveler]

Well, I talked to Bert-Valkoholic at Thursday night bike night here in Silver Springs & he suggested the same thing as you guys suspect. I did NOT clean the contacts on the starter relay the other day when I had the cover off, but I just did a few minutes ago. Sure enough there was some blue-ish powder looking residue on both the relay & the connecter. Not anymore! 
I don't think it's the battery as the starter turns real fast just like it should & the battery connections are clean & solid. I may pull the starter button apart tomorrow & give it a cleaning just to be sure.

Back to Biketoberfest on Saturday we will go!

Thanks for the heads up on the relay... I had forgotten all about it!

[Toledo Mark]

My starter relay was as you described with the blueish stuff.  I cleaned it, dried it and put it back together.  Weeks later the relay fried.  You may want to order a relay now and the fixing to replace it.  Just a heads up.


Before cleaning


Several weeks later


It fried so bad the melted together.


My ride home.

[gordonv]

Sounds just like the start button to me. But then you replaced it with a new one just 4 years ago.

A failure so soon? Others have been acting up in what, around 10 yrs +/- ? Then again, if it is melted, it is caused by number of cycles, not how old the grease is.

I also thought low battery power, except for after fiddling with the switches, it works again. I sometimes had not enough power to crank, leave it for about 5 minutes, and was able to start it quickly before the battery failed again.

[Tropic traveler]

Update.... Last night after I cleaned up the starter relay everything was peachy, started it up 6 times in a row, zero problems. Well, different story tonight. Click, click, click, no start at all & the lights won't come on. Wait 10 seconds & recycle the key, lights on still no start. New relay not in stock at either local Honda dealer but there is one in Daytona where we are headed tomorrow.
Obvious solution... take relay out of my '97 & put it in Kim's '98 so our Biketoberfest part 2 ride is on!.  
Problem temporarily solved.   '97 is undergoing a carb-ectomy right now anyways!

TWO new starter relays are being ordered TONIGHT.
I hate electrical issues but by God I will be prepared!!!  

[vanagon40]

I was quite intrigued by this option for a starter relay posted by kruzn

[Tropic traveler]

I was quite intrigued by this option for a starter relay posted by kruzn

I thought about that too. Since the wires & connectors are in excellent condition & the bikes are over 15 years old I figure that is a pretty good track record for the OE Honda relay.
I did print out the Ford relay conversion post just in case! 

[Bocephus]

It's the Starter relay. You can order one from Amazon.com for $10.50. I ordered 2 and put one in saddlebag.

[Novavalker]

After cleaning mine I put some dielectric grease in the connector.

[Toledo Mark]

After cleaning mine I put some dielectric grease in the connector.

So did I and it still fried.

[R J]

I see driving lights on your rig.

Do you activate them with a relay?

If not that will fry the connector real quick like also.

When ya fix the starter relay, also add a relay to those driving lights if you don't have one.       Don't bother asking how I know that, and I used to turn wrenches part time.    Jez Louise, you no learn nuttin in school?    No, I must have been asleep then when that was discussed.

[Tropic traveler]

I see driving lights on your rig.

Do you activate them with a relay?

If not that will fry the connector real quick like also.

When ya fix the starter relay, also add a relay to those driving lights if you don't have one.       Don't bother asking how I know that, and I used to turn wrenches part time.    Jez Louise, you no learn nuttin in school?    No, I must have been asleep then when that was discussed.

Got car horns AND driving lights on all 3 of our Valkyries. ALL are relayed & on their own separate circuit.  
Kim's Valk performed perfectly all day today at Biketoberfest with the transplanted '97 relay.  
Two brand new OEM relays are already on the way from HDL. I'll put the new ones in the '97 & Kim's '98 while the known good relay from the '97 will go into the saddlebag road repair kit.  

Thanks for the help!  

[Tundra]

Eddie,
Why are you doing carb-ectomy? Didn't you have that torn down with pics of all the crud just a year or two ago?

[Tropic traveler]

Eddie,
Why are you doing carb-ectomy? Didn't you have that torn down with pics of all the crud just a year or two ago?

Well Doug, I'm not real happy about it either but it was actually Feb. 2008 & 37,000 miles ago that I had the carbs off the '97. First time was at 78,000 miles, 115,000 now. I noticed rust in the tank very visible directly beneath the filler hole so I parked it with the intention of having the tank re-cleaning & re-lined. Planned to change the fuel filter that I had added at the same time too. As life sometimes does to you it took me longer than I thought to "get roundtuit" & in that span of time the gas must have turned evil & plugged up the jets in the carbs.
I think this cleaning will find a lot less crap, rust & sediment in the bowls than last go around due to being less years & miles plus the added in-line filter, just rotten gas clogging up the jets.
I will get started on it today... pics to follow! 

[Tundra]

 Sorry, Hope it goes smooth
I found rusty goo around my filter screen when I installed the Pingle valve. I thought it was just sediment from filling station in ground tanks. I think I'll check my screen again next time I pull the tank.

[Steve Casko]

It looks like I'm running a couple weeks behind the other fried relay guys.  I had the same pop and then a dead valk a couple weeks ago.  After reading a few posits I ordered a new relay and put it in.  Still the same, completely dead.  I have a burned red plug like above but not to that degree (I do have horns and lights, all on their own relays).  I noticed that the very bottom fuse on the small fuse block 5A "acc term" was blown.  Replaced it but no difference.   I don't even know where the "acc term" is or what might be hooked to it.

I know I'm going to need to replace the red plug that goes into the, can someone tell me what the correct name (or part #) for it and where I can get one.  It looks like it's going to be a beast to replace and get those wires any there, any suggestions?

In the meantime, I still have a completely dead bike.  The fusible link is still good and has power into and out of it.  I get nothing when I turn the key on, no lights horn nothing.  Any suggestions on where to check next?

I replaced the starter switch 2 years ago with a brand new one.

Thanks,
Steve

[gordonv]

I can't help with the part #'s, but it has been posted before. Maybe a search for Goldwing & relay might work, since the connector is for one.

My thought was that your dog bone fuse might be blown.

[chrise2469]

.   I don't even know where the "acc term" is or what might be hooked to it.

If you look at this link you will see the acc term is located in a black boot on the upper rear under of the right side cover.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,38316.0.html
It is often used as a trigger for other relays or a sub panel.

I know I'm going to need to replace the red plug that goes into the, can someone tell me what the correct name (or part #) for it and where I can get one.  It looks like it's going to be a beast to replace and get those wires any there, any suggestions?

Here's a link to the replacement kit from honda in a thread
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,59938.0.html

You can also order the relay cover from cycleterminal.com  I have ordered from them in the past and they are fast and reliable.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/solenoid-connectors.html.

These come with new connectors so you cut away the old connector and barrel crimp them back on, its pretty easy with the right tools.

For the dead bike, its hard to trouble shoot without being there.  Check the 55amp(think thats the amp) dog bone fuse.  Next actually check every fuse for voltage or continuity.  Those mini fuses are hard to tell if they pop.  Try and figure out what blew the 5 ACC circuit while your there.

Check your ground to the engine block, that may be corroded up.

You may just have smoked the wires on the connector so bad that they are no longer connected.  If you have some jumper wires I'd jumper the connector to the relay and see if it works.

Not much help on the troubleshooting.  Hope the part numbers help.

[Steve Casko]

ok, I've replaced a few parts and still dead.  Here's what I've got so far...

Turn on the key and nothing.  No lights, nothing at all.  Horn doesn't work, nothing when I hit the start switch.

I replaced the battery with a brand new one.  Charged it up, still nothing.

I replaced the (fried) red connector and the relay with new ones.  I don't have power to the wires going into the red connector.

I replaced the start switch 2 years ago with a new one.

I've got 4 way flashers wired into a secondary fuse box off the battery.  They are working fine, flashing bright.  Indicates to me that I have a good ground still, and that my new battery is working well.  The ground wire on the left side of of the engine is tight and appears to have good contact.

I've got no power to the (mini) fuse block under the right cover.

The dog bone fuse is good, i've got power to both sides of it.  Where is the next spot I should check for power after it leaves the dog bone fuse? 

Is it possible that my ignition switch is dead?  I've been researching electrical issues and I haven't seen it mentioned.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks,
Steve
scasko@gmail.com

[Shotgun]

I had exactly the same thing happen.  I thought it was my battery but the battery checked out good under load.  Mine would start if I put jumper cables on it, that's why I thought it was the battery.  I checked and clean all the connections except for the battery and still had the same problem.  The battery connections looked good but I cleaned them anyway and put a little dielectric grease on them and haven't had a problem since.  If you know your battery is good, you might try it.

[Gryphon Rider]

They way you (Steve Casko) describe it, it could be two things:
1. Connections at the ends of the battery cables.  More likely the ends away from the battery.  Disconnect the negative battery cable from where it connects to the engine (or transmission, I forget which), clean the connection really well, reconnect tightly and cover the connection with dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.  Now for sure you should have voltage at the starter relay (you did check the 30A fuse on the starter relay, right?), specifically at the heavier red wire going out from the connector.
2. Assuming you have voltage at the red wire mentioned above, but no lights, horn, etc. with the key on, the culprit is most likely the ignition (key) switch or the wires/connections leading to/from it.  The red wire at the ignition switch is the same red wire as above.  The other wires should have power when the key is on.

[Black Dog]

Just read that you had replaced the starter relay...  I had this happened to me, again, a few months ago, and the following process corrected my issue...

Here is my write up from late last summer...

--------

For the second time, in her 16 years of providing miles of smiles, my lady let me down the other day  

Got up Monday morning, looked at the weather and saw a perfect chance to 'ride' to work.  Pushed the beast out of her cave, strapped on the helmet, snugged up the gloves, slid on my sun glasses, turned the key, pushed the starter, and ...  Nothing    No indicator lights, no headlights, no nothing...

I've experienced this once before, while in the driveway of a Harley riding friend of mine...  Bad timing, and kinda is the reason I no longer give him crap about his bike (in good fun   ).  

Last time, it was the starter relay 'meltdown' that got me (I had made a point of glooping up the connection portion of the relay with Di-Electric grease, every spring, since the last repair...)  Same symptoms, same everything.  Last time I 'fixed' the problem using the OEM parts, as outlined in many posts found if you search 'Starter Relay' on these boards.

To refresh my memory, I searched again, and found many helpful hints (RJ's is probably the best known, using the 'kit').  While reading, I came across the write up by Kruzin (Dave) that uses a much beefier, heavy duty starter relay made for an 80's vintage Ford F150  

See it here...

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,45371.0.html

Went to my local NAPA after work on Tuesday, picked up the relay, a heavy duty inline fuse holder, some beefier connectors and shrink tubing...  Out the door for less than $40 (and no waiting for parts to be delivered)  

Tore in to the Fat Gurl at about 5:30 last night, and was on my way to grab a burger and a shake, with my brother, at 8:00.  

The new install is clean, sturdy, and IMO, will last much longer than if I went with the OEM parts.

Big   to Dave for taking the time to take pictures and document the process for maybe fixing this issue for good!  I 'PM'd" him Monday, asking if I could contact him if I encountered any issues, and he gave up his cell number, no questions asked.

Just another reason to hate this club, and to ask where I can fill out a form to get my dues back  


---------------------------------------------------------------------
Black Dog

[Tropic traveler]

Well here we go again.
Went out to start Kim's Valk to keep the juices flowing as it has been rotten cold here in the Arctic regions of Florida & bingo, two clicks from the right side area then nothing. No start, no headlight, no indicator lights at all. Did not come back on after a few key cycles & fiddling like before. It is as if there is no battery in the bike. Dead completely.
Put the extra new starter relay I had bought, cleaned both battery terminal AND the ground at the engine block though all were very clean, checked ALL fuses & still nothing. Battery is good.
As per my original post the entire RH control assembly was replaced a few years back & the bike is housed inside when not riding.
Electrical trouble-shooting is not my forte, I dislike messing with it at all but I'm sure it's something simple that I am missing.
Could the starter switch cause a completely dead no lights situation? The driving lights & horn do not work with key on as they usually do either. They are both relayed & powered straight from the battery & normally will only work with key on.  
Ignition switch?
I am perplexed.
  

[salty1]

Tropic Traveler I would go to the starter and clean all the contacts and take it from there. I feel your frustration bro. Hang in there. That switch can raise a lot havoc. 

[indybobm]

I think I would be looking at the ignition (key) switch real close. It has it's own connector that can get corroded and cause problems.

[Valkpilot]

Well here we go again.
Went out to start Kim's Valk to keep the juices flowing as it has been rotten cold here in the Arctic regions of Florida & bingo, two clicks from the right side area then nothing. No start, no headlight, no indicator lights at all. Did not come back on after a few key cycles & fiddling like before. It is as if there is no battery in the bike. Dead completely.
Put the extra new starter relay I had bought, cleaned both battery terminal AND the ground at the engine block though all were very clean, checked ALL fuses & still nothing. Battery is good.
As per my original post the entire RH control assembly was replaced a few years back & the bike is housed inside when not riding.
Electrical trouble-shooting is not my forte, I dislike messing with it at all but I'm sure it's something simple that I am missing.
Could the starter switch cause a completely dead no lights situation? The driving lights & horn do not work with key on as they usually do either. They are both relayed & powered straight from the battery & normally will only work with key on.  
Ignition switch?
I am perplexed.
  

A shorted cell in the battery will cause this.  The battery at rest will appear OK.  You need to measure its voltage under with the key on and the starter button pressed.  Better yet, haul it to a battery store or automotive store and have them do a load test.