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Author Topic: Shop press - what "ton" rating is really needed?  (Read 1388 times)
Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« on: November 03, 2013, 09:24:31 AM »

Princess Auto (think Canadian Harbor Freight) occasionally has their shop presses on sale, anything from 10 ton bench-top to 50 ton free-standing, and I've been tempted. As a DIY mechanic, would I need anything more than a 10 or 12 ton model? Other insights?
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hubcapsc
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upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2013, 09:34:23 AM »


I've heard stories about people really getting hurt with presses - I could do that...

I've heard that air presses are better than hydraulic presses - I think their price reflects that...

-Mike
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YoungPUP
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Valparaiso, In


« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2013, 09:37:18 AM »

A few years back I went halves with a friend on a 20ton  from Harbor Freight. We thought it might be a bit too much, but couldn't beat the price at the time.  Now in hindsight the 20 ton capacity has come in handy more times that we thought it originally would.  You might be surprised to see what it takes to push larger U  joints, Suspension bushings etc.
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Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2013, 11:01:34 AM »

I agree with YoungPUP. The more bigger the more better. I think 20T is about minimum.
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art
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Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2013, 11:18:50 AM »

A 20 ton manual hydraulic press is plenty and a manual press will not do anything until you pull on the lever. A lot safer than a automatic motor driven press.
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Gryphon Rider
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2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2013, 03:29:36 PM »

Thanks for the input, folks.
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gregc
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Media Pa.


« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2013, 04:48:40 PM »

 I have a cheap 30 ton,  has done everything I ever wanted it to do.  You are right about getting hurt, had an axel bearing come apart before it slid off the axel.  It took out 2 windows in the garage with flying ball bearings.
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art
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Grants Pass,Or

Grants Pass,Or


« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2013, 05:37:47 PM »

Yup they can be dangerous .I had a coworker have his hand crushed it a 100 ton press , not nice.
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Denny47
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#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2013, 05:43:03 PM »

I have had a 20T Harbor Freight for several years. Has always done what I needed. Very handy for my tractors and equip. I modified mine with a plate and 2 springs so it pulls the ram back up when hyd. pressure is released.
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MarkT
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« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2013, 08:45:44 PM »

I built my own press with a HF 30 ton bottle.  Glad I got that size, I've never been short on power but I sometimes need to use the longer handle on the pump.  I also added return springs - though I used bungie cords.  Have the 12 ton HF pipe bender too, it's been a great tool with the mods I added for returning Valk pipes back to spec that were bent - either by dropping the bike on the pipes or by lifting the bike with the jack under the pipes.  I can always tell how it happened.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Tx Bohemian
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Victoria, Tx


« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2013, 06:02:55 AM »

...I modified mine with a plate and 2 springs so it pulls the ram back up when hyd. pressure is released.

I have the same one.
Don't have it handy to look at but, doesn't it come with 2 "pulback" springs already?

I remember reading reports on these that they were kinda crappy and if the springs "overextended" by having the Ram bottom out they would stretch and not collapse the jack completely once presure released.
I haven't had that problem yet. (could be that I try not to "over-stretch" them)

I got mine a couple of years ago when HF had a sale on it and I had a couple of gift certificates. I think I had to come up with about $80 out of my pocket.

However even if I had to pay full price this thing has paid for itself a few times over already.
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

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« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2013, 08:49:26 AM »

...I modified mine with a plate and 2 springs so it pulls the ram back up when hyd. pressure is released.

I have the same one.
Don't have it handy to look at but, doesn't it come with 2 "pulback" springs already?

I remember reading reports on these that they were kinda crappy and if the springs "overextended" by having the Ram bottom out they would stretch and not collapse the jack completely once presure released.
I haven't had that problem yet. (could be that I try not to "over-stretch" them)

I got mine a couple of years ago when HF had a sale on it and I had a couple of gift certificates. I think I had to come up with about $80 out of my pocket.

However even if I had to pay full price this thing has paid for itself a few times over already.

Rig up several bungie cords.  When they fail, very cheap & easy to replace.  Last for many years. HF regularly bundles a bag of them for what - 20 for $10 or similar.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Denny47
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#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2013, 06:28:31 PM »

...I modified mine with a plate and 2 springs so it pulls the ram back up when hyd. pressure is released.

I have the same one.
Don't have it handy to look at but, doesn't it come with 2 "pulback" springs already?


I remember reading reports on these that they were kinda crappy and if the springs "overextended" by having the Ram bottom out they would stretch and not collapse the jack completely once presure released.
I haven't had that problem yet. (could be that I try not to "over-stretch" them)

I got mine a couple of years ago when HF had a sale on it and I had a couple of gift certificates. I think I had to come up with about $80 out of my pocket.

However even if I had to pay full price this thing has paid for itself a few times over already.


Mine is an older one. The ram comes down and the hyd. pump is on the side with a hose to the ram instead of the jack attached to the center. Just saw a HF ad and the new ones are different from mine.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 06:32:15 PM by Denny47 » Logged

1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust,  2012 Pearl White Goldwing
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2013, 07:59:51 PM »

Gryphon, what would you NEED the press for? Might help with the suggestions.

I haven't needed one since I worked on my old 61 Falcon transmission.

For the Valk? For what? Most can be done by heating and freezing, and using the rod and nuts kind of clamp, for bearings. What else would you need one for on the Valk?

I'm thinking save the money and bring what you MUST to a shop.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 08:07:40 PM by gordonv » Logged

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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2013, 10:59:20 PM »

I use mine a LOT.  Mostly for metal fab work.  But when you need to make something happen with a lot of leverage, nothing beats a press.  More power and precision than a hammer & anvil.  Or big pry bars with a vise.  I've made jigs so I can push or pull.  Made a press that pushes outward inside tubes to reshape them.  Made jigs that shape header collectors. And another that presses evenly along a tube to reshape it from outside.  Another that will remove siezed-on stacks. Not to mention conventional tasks like pressing bearings.  I don't have any need for power presses (air-hydraulic), manual works just fine for my shop.  But those presses are indispensable.  However you will get a lot more utility out of them if you are able to make tools and dies for them.  Meaning welding and cutting equipment and how to use it.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 11:02:59 PM by MarkT » Logged


Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #15 on: November 05, 2013, 07:06:45 AM »

Gryphon, what would you NEED the press for? Might help with the suggestions.

I haven't needed one since I worked on my old 61 Falcon transmission.

For the Valk? For what? Most can be done by heating and freezing, and using the rod and nuts kind of clamp, for bearings. What else would you need one for on the Valk?

I'm thinking save the money and bring what you MUST to a shop.
Just as a for-instance, a few months ago I was removing any replacing ABS rings from car axles. Might have been easier with a press than with the hammer and screwdriver method. I'd also like to find or have made dies so I can easily bend steel bar up to say 1/4 x 2.
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