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Author Topic: Stainless brake lines?  (Read 1052 times)
robin
Member
*****
Posts: 2335


Get on it and RIDE!!

Hardwick NJ


« on: November 07, 2013, 04:50:27 PM »

Can you get them a little longer than OEM?
If so where do you go?

   Thanks, Robin
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rfink02
Member
*****
Posts: 27

Atlanta, GA


« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2013, 05:42:21 PM »

I picked up some Galfer lines +2. Very happy with the look/finish. Motion pro will also make up + length cables. Close match between the two in terms of looks.

Good luck.

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vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2013, 07:51:50 AM »

I got a set for the front brakes on my '82 Silverwing from JDA Enterprises.  Not sure if the price was high or low--$90 for the three lines (to my door).  I'm sure JDA would custom make any length you wanted.
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Farther
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Posts: 1680


Quimper Peninsula, WA


« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2013, 08:34:45 PM »

Here's a forum sponsor: http://xf6-custom.com/partpages/valbrakelines.html
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Thanks,
~Farther
Detn8er
Member
*****
Posts: 1222


South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2013, 04:24:08 AM »

http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfer_lines_cruiser.html#top
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Cappy
Member
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Posts: 65

Minnesota / Florida


« Reply #5 on: November 10, 2013, 04:07:17 PM »

Ok. I am back again with an update. I was able to apply some of your suggestions today as I got the bike inside. First, with a fully charged new battery I tried a start with the choke all the way down. Turned over strong, but no hint of start. Pulled a plug,cleaned it and with it connected to the boot got a pretty good spark accross to the frame. Pulled and cleaned another plug, and spray a small amount of ether into the two cylinders and quickly reinstalled them. On attempting a start, I got a weak, but promising chug-pop of ignition. Therfore, i concluded I have a fuel problem. So, I drained fuel and removed the tank and emptied all, but a residual amount of fuel. I also, removed a very dirty air filter, so I wiil be looking to replace that. I expect that will be fairly costly. Therfore, I am at the petcock problem potentially. So, I guess I need to know how to trouble shoot that. Can I drain the remaining fuel by gravity alone from the valve, or does it require vacumn? I was able to manually turn the fuel valve by hand through 3 positions, I think. But, now I am lost as to what position it is in without the chrome indicator switch. Tomorrow, I will try to move forward.
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vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2013, 05:43:11 PM »

Cappy,

For best responses to your questions, repost in a new thread or one of your old threads.  Lots of folks will not look at your question in an old thread labeled "Stainless brake lines?"
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gordonv
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Posts: 5763


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2013, 07:46:15 PM »

I would agree with the above, but then it is nice to read a complete threat from start to finish, for others to know the process of trouble shooting.

The petcock runs from vacuum. If you have a pump then use that. If not, I believe some have said using the air line you can use your own mouth to apply the sucking.

Remove the line from below the petcock connected to the card, and place in a container. Apply the vacuum to the petcock, and see if fuel flows. That is, if you have fuel up from the petcock. There was a post where someone used a suspended can with a fitting that went to the fuel line, which he connected to the petcock. This allowed him to "bench test" the bike, and in your case, see if the petcock opens.

I believe the lever is horizontal for off, and either up/down for on/reserve.

Oh, and when you move the petcock lever, move it slowly and "feel" the ball that moves for each position to hold it in place. It is possible that the lever moves, but does not go into the position that allows fuel to flow. Rare, but happened.
« Last Edit: November 10, 2013, 07:49:55 PM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

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