Carb Issues

[vranasaurus]

I got done putting new rubber in the carbs and set the pilot screws to where they were prior to taking it apart.  It idled at a good 900-1000 RPM prior to the rebuild.

When I got it all back together and fired the bike up it idled at about 300 RPM.  I suspected the throttle stop may have gotten out of whack when I separated the carbs so I turned it up.  I had to turn it quite a bit to get it to 900-1000RPM.  It was also popping, which it wasn't doing before.

Am I correct that the popping indicates a lean condition?  It also sounded like it was racing at idle instead of smoothly idling. (If that makes any sense)

My first thoughts were a vacuum leak or some loose connection with the airbox or carbs.  I check and all the vacuum line were hooked up.  I checked the airbox connection to the carbs and they were good.

The pair valve lines were hooked to #4 and #6 and the petcock was hooked to #5.  The manual says that the pair valve should be hooked to #3 and #5 and the petcock should be hooked to #6.  I didn't change it because around and left it like it was before I took the carbs off.

The bike has a K&N with the foam on top.  It was in there before I took everything apart so I just left it.  I normally wouldn't go with a K&N but in this case I didn't want to change anything.  The exhaust is stock with the exception of the piggies being cut.

I took the bike for a ride and all the ranges of throttle except those that depend on the pilot were as good if not better than before. 


Tomorrow morning I am going to sync the carbs and set the pilot screws. (and probably stab myself in the eye with a screwdriver at some point as that will be less painful) When setting the pilot screws for a 97 do you start at 1 3/4 or 2 1/4?  The manual says for a 97 you start at 1 3/4.

Anything else I should take a look at?




   

[9Ball]

not that it should matter, but the manual calls for the PAIR valves to be connected to carbs 3 & 4 and petcock to carb 6.  Refer to the carb sync section starting on page 3-10 and it describes which carbs get caps and which get tubing connections.  Again, it shouldn't really matter as long as the tubing reaches the intake runner nipple.  The idea is to keep the tubing as short as possible.

Did you put new O-rings in the pilot screws?  These are easily torn or deformed and do degrade.

[salty1]

+1 on what 9Ball says. I would turn all your pilots 2 1/4 turns out across the board and follow through with the synchronization.  Also, I assume you changed out the intake O-rings.?  ???   

[salty1]

Vranasaurus the next time you have your tank off, you might want to consider desmoging your bike and installing a Dan Marc fuel shutt off. It surely eliminates alot of problems. 

[vranasaurus]

I believe I have identified the problem and a possible culprit.

When I put the vaccum guage on 1 3 5 and 4.  1 3 and 5 are all perfect but 4 is way off.  It is so far off I don't have anywhere near enough adjustment to get it right.  I'm thinking I bent the linkage between 3 and 4 when separating the carbs.

Thoughts?

[vranasaurus]

Can anyone explain why the adjustment screws for 4 and 6 don't work independently of one another? 

I finally was able to get 4 adjusted the same as 3 but I had to turn the sync screw for 5 to get there and now 5 is way off. 

[Patrick]

There is something wrong. The screws move independently and shouldn't need much adjustment. I'd recommend removing the airbox and take a good look. It sounds as though the bank may have to come back off, but, I'd look it over closely first.

[vranasaurus]

This undertaking is going to make me want to punch a baby.

[The emperor has no clothes]

This undertaking is going to make me want to punch a baby.

Don't punch any babies, you'll end up losing that sweet green&cream tourer of yours . Take a break and regroup you'll get it.

[vranasaurus]

How much play should there be in the throttle link at the #4 carb?

[Ricky-D]

A good thing is to synchronize the carburetors while the assembly is on the bench.

I recommend to never remove the carburetors from the motor.

Everything (or just about everything) that needs to be done to the carburetors can be done on the bike.

***

[salty1]

A good thing is to synchronize the carburetors while the assembly is on the bench.

I recommend to never remove the carburetors from the motor.

Everything (or just about everything) that needs to be done to the carburetors can be done on the bike.

***

Yah if your a very flexible, agile and double jointed midget!         

[vranasaurus]

I think it is the throttle link that connects each side of the carbs.  There is so much play in it that it doesn't seem right.

Took it off and the holes in it are substantially larger than the peg they hook onto. 

It has so much play that when I adjust the idle screw it is only opening the throttle plates on 1, 3, and 5. 

 

[Ricky-D]

Seems you're missing some parts for the link.

Look at the fiche, there are many items on both ends.

***

[WamegoRob]

I think it is the throttle link that connects each side of the carbs.  There is so much play in it that it doesn't seem right.

Took it off and the holes in it are substantially larger than the peg they hook onto.  

It has so much play that when I adjust the idle screw it is only opening the throttle plates on 1, 3, and 5.  

Mine was the same way; when the new linkage arm (a.k.a. LEVER SET, LINK 16035-MZ0-000) came in it was immediately apparent that I was missing some bushing bits on the old one and the hole in the linkage had enlarged from wear.

It's #3 here:
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2552153&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1997&fveh=132667

[vranasaurus]

Put the new link on, got the carbs synced and it runs great.  Also ordered and installed an electric fuel valve as well. 

[salty1]

Ride safe!

[ricoman]

A good thing is to synchronize the carburetors while the assembly is on the bench.

I recommend to never remove the carburetors from the motor.

Everything (or just about everything) that needs to be done to the carburetors can be done on the bike.

***

share with us how to sync the carbs on the bench while never removing them from the motor while they are on the bike.
Do you put the whole bike on the bench?
When you soak carbs in cleaner while they are on the bike do you just fill a swimming pool with cleaner and put the entire bike in it so the carbs don't have to be removed?
Seriously, tell us how we can do work on the carbs without taking them off the bike. How do you get the jets out with the carbs on the bike?

[Dirty Dave]

Thanks MASE for the D-Ray link! I got a set of 97 carbs that never ran right that I'll rebuild now.
I've been using a 2000 set for the past 10 years.........

(I usually do things the hard <dumb> way.)

[Ricky-D]

How do you get the jets out with the carbs on the bike

I think in your special case it would be better to just sell the bike.

***

[ricoman]

How do you get the jets out with the carbs on the bike

I think in your special case it would be better to just sell the bike.

***

I'm serious, how do you do so much carb work with them on the bike?
Could save us a lot of time if we knew your methods.

[whitestroke]

When I do jet removals, I don't try to pull the carbs out.  In fact, I leave the intakes loosely connected on the other side to act as a hinge, and then tie the "work" side up as high as possible.  Using a mirror under there for the jets is helpful for the first few, until you get the feel of where they are.  The most difficult part seems to be getting the bowl screws out, without stripping the heads.  It's most helpful to have JIS bits, and use as much upward pressure as possible to break them loose.
Thanks to Kingbee for post

[ricoman]

thanks, whitestroke
that's what I was after

[whitestroke]

No problem it's really pretty simple if you have the tool in his hand, Jis bit and ratcheting bit holder.