98pacecar
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« on: December 03, 2013, 03:30:56 PM » |
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326249_200326249Just wondering if it will lift the valk,, without damaging anything. N' if it's of any,,, quality. (is it better,,, then harbor freight?) Thanks, Jim
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2013, 04:59:23 PM » |
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I've got two lifts of similar build to the Northern one, a Larin and a Torin. I think they're ALL made in the same factory in China. Good lifts, watch your fingers, and get or make a Lift Adapter to fit the bottom of your bike. http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htm
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« Last Edit: December 03, 2013, 06:26:21 PM by Hook#3287 »
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98pacecar
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« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2013, 05:43:44 AM » |
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Wow,,, two opposite opinions....  Hmmmmmmmmmm,,,, gonna have to think about this..  Can you tell me how/what broke???
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chuckie
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« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2013, 10:22:05 AM » |
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I have a craftsman lift. Bought originally for my 1800 wing. Fellas on the wing site suggested changing bolts as some broke on lift 20 bucks worth of good bolts and 8 years later, still works fine. Adapter is a must for safe lifting. Can be had on eBay. These lifts are similar too or same as craftsman. Chuckie
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98pacecar
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« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2013, 11:06:13 AM » |
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I have a craftsman lift. Bought originally for my 1800 wing. Fellas on the wing site suggested changing bolts as some broke on lift 20 bucks worth of good bolts and 8 years later, still works fine. Adapter is a must for safe lifting. Can be had on eBay. These lifts are similar too or same as craftsman. Chuckie
Adapter...  More info,,, please....
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98pacecar
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2013, 01:18:32 PM » |
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Thank,,,, you............. 
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2013, 01:52:14 PM » |
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I made and have used this one* on two interstates for years and years. Uprights are pressure treat, base is not. The thinner bottom is easier to use (get in and out)... it sits between the engine bottom and the jack so no real stress. You want to shim the kickstand with a 2X4 before sliding the jack and adapter in place. You can buy a spendy metal one or one bolted to the bottom, but I don't know why. When I have to do some heavy wrenching (pulling), rear tire, etc, I add a jack stand to the front engine guard.... the rear gets suddenly very light when the rear wheel/tire comes off. * 
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98pacecar
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2013, 02:30:07 PM » |
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Looks,,, easy enuff... The softer base wood will prolly allow da pan ridges or bolts to get a bit of a bite,,, n' prevent minor slipping..  Good idea......
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2013, 04:52:35 PM » |
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Really, the bike is so heavy, there is little movement. I probably should, but have never used a tie strap, and never wished I had (Do use jack stands under the engine guards). Of course, you want as flat a surface as possible for the jack. To me, the biggest single risk is leaving tools or round parts laying beside the bike, slipping on a screwdriver and falling into the bike, knocking it off the jack. Try to avoid this.
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fordmano
Member
    
Posts: 1457
San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05
San Jose, CA.
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2013, 11:50:52 PM » |
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Those adapters are great unless you have a belly tank. I made the wooden one like Jess did and have had to highly modify it with poor results after installing my belly tank. Seems like my bike sits lower than it should and it is all but impossible to even get my bike lift under the frame and engine case. With the interstate I use 4 jack stands since the I/S has the crash bars also under the bags makes for a seriously solid platform once you get her up there. Oh I always use 1 or even 2 tie straps also,,,, but I am a big chicken and usually work on my bike when I am home alone so a fall could cost me everything including my life since the Phat Gurl is so heavy if it lands on your body your gonna be suck there till some heavy equipment or many people show up.
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 83GS550 93XR650L TARD! 97WR250 99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone 01YZ125(x2) 05DRZ-125
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specialdose
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« Reply #11 on: December 05, 2013, 12:20:17 AM » |
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I have the yellow one from Harbor Freight. Been using it for a year, no problems. I am really pleased with it since someone posted the youtube fellow made on simple fix for the release pedal. Now it just creeps down gently. I got mine for $100. I think they are more now. I also have the permanently installed piece from ebay. No wood needed. My garage is a single bay, no room to turn this 8 ft Gurl around. I jack her up spin her around ready to exit.
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« Last Edit: December 05, 2013, 12:23:50 AM by specialdose »
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Bone
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« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2013, 09:47:46 AM » |
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Yes
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PAVALKER
Member
    
Posts: 4435
Retired Navy 22YOS, 2014 Valkyrie , VRCC# 27213
Pittsburgh, Pa
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2013, 09:57:03 AM » |
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I have the yellow one from Harbor Freight. Been using it for a year, no problems. I am really pleased with it since someone posted the youtube fellow made on simple fix for the release pedal. Now it just creeps down gently. I got mine for $100. I think they are more now. I also have the permanently installed piece from ebay. No wood needed. My garage is a single bay, no room to turn this 8 ft Gurl around. I jack her up spin her around ready to exit.
I had a Larin/Torin lift and it didn't last long, pressure leaked down. I have two of those HF yellow lifts, and did the pedal release mod. Had em for quite a few years now, no problems. I also have the mounted lift adapter that stays on the bike.... great for when/if needed out of your garage area. I had the old red adapter and it was a PITA to mount up when needed. For winter storage, I have placed the Valk on the lift, used locking bar and released pressure from hydraulic bottle, rolled it around and pushed the bike to the back of the garage.... so the GF can get her car in during the snowy months.
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John 
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Hook#3287
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« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2013, 05:32:21 AM » |
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I had a Larin/Torin lift and it didn't last long, pressure leaked down Yeah, one of mine leaks after some time up. I try to treat them as lifts, not stands, using jack stands if she's going to be up for a while. Grade #8 Bolts and Nuts cost more like $30 to fix it plus the time and aggravation I'll have to check out the bolts. Better, Lighter Craftsman lift $169 and look for sales. I like that lift.  Looks like it would be a lot easier to move around. Pretty sure it wasn't available when I bought my first lift over ten years ago. The second lift was given to me.
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Airedale
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« Reply #16 on: December 08, 2013, 04:06:58 AM » |
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I picked up one of the Craftsmans pictured above and it has worked well for me.  Al
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Brian
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« Reply #17 on: December 08, 2013, 05:23:31 AM » |
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I have the red and black ATV/Transmission lift from Sears. It has leveling bolts that I use to keep it from teetering as my garage floor is not 100% even. I have used this lift since buying my 97 standard in 2005. The unit you have showing here does not have these leveling bolts. Just my .02 cents here. I recommend using the safety dogs if the bike is to be left in the air for any length of time and taking the pressure off the jack, this is mentioned above. I also use jack stands under the engine guards.
Good luck.
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BigM
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« Reply #18 on: December 09, 2013, 08:26:49 AM » |
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If want to spend the bucks Craftsman has a Aluminum m/c jack thats sturdy and light. I have the E-bay mounted adapter also and well pleased. Will be using it to replace tires and U-joint soon as is the season for winter maint.
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