Rider broke down on road, need suggestions.

[Black Pearl's Captain]

There is a rider broke down on the way to Inzane with a rear wheel bearing out. Trouble is the inner race is gone.

How has anyone pulled the outer (outside of bearing) race out of the wheel when the inner half of bearing is gone?

Raymond

[Warlock]

Use a die grinder very careful. Should be able to bend it in and grab it with some pliers.
David

[Ricky-D]

I have never had to remove a bearing in the condition that you report.  So this is only a stab in the dark.  I do know some bearing seats have a cut out (like a notch) where you can get a drift on the race from the other side of the wheel.  The inner spacer should be able to move over enough to do this but then again you may have to remove the bearing from the other side in order to do this. Wow, what a pisser!

***

[NCGhostrider]

That sucks... I am going to pass on a trick I have used on car wheel bearings, not sure it will work here, and it assumes you have a welder available, and can see, get at it clearly without risking a strike on a stray surface.

The secret is to run a small bead around the inside of the race surface, small, 3/32 7018 welding rod is preferred.  Then turn it (the wheel) over and the race will fall out in a minute or so as the weld contracts. 

If there are any welders out there, don't kill me for revealing this old secret!!!

Disclaimer.... this may or may not work for you, be careful, you could really mess things up, sticking the ground clamp on the aluminum wheel will really screw it up... etc etc..

I am trying to remember the inside of the Valk rear wheel to visualize if this would even be possible.. just been too long..

see ya,

Craig

NCGhostrider

99 I/S

[Madmike]

The secret is to run a small bead around the inside of the race surface, small, 3/32 7018 welding rod is preferred.  Then turn it (the wheel) over and the race will fall out in a minute or so as the weld contracts.  

I have done this dozens of times pulling wheel bearings on heavy equipment  - but on steel hubs not aluminum so don't know how much heat they will take.  Usually the bearing will make a sound as it heats up in the bore kind of a "tink", this lets you know it is hot enough.

If you don't have a welder you can use a torch and apply local heat, get it good and hot then hit it with a cold water hose, it will contract back to smaller than what it started and should be very loose in the housing.  

Either way use cold water once the race is heated and this will shrink it.

Can't you get it out cold by driving on the back side of the race from the other side of the wheel???

 Remove the other bearing first to give you as much room as possible.  Use a long screwdriver to catch the edge of the race.  I have made up drivers from key stock or long bolts as well, bend the end so that it will catch on the race and tap all the way around so that it comes out square to the bore.  

[Scott in Ok]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  In the end, the dremel and a cutoff wheel was the solution.  We did way more damage to the wheel prying around on it than we did when we just used a small cutoff wheel to cut the bearing. It isn't pretty, but we have new bearings/seals installed and on the road again.

By the way, the bike belongs to the Grey Ghost, from western Ok...

A big thanks also, to Misfits father in law, who very graciously lent us his garage and jack in La Junta, Co.  Without him, we would be looking for someone with a trailer right about now.

-Scott

[NCGhostrider]

Glad you got it going !!!!   Nothing like being down on the road.  Ride safe onward !!!

Craig

NCGhostrider
99 I/S