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deckerjr
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« on: December 20, 2013, 07:41:20 AM » |
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Riding down the interstate, noise sounded like something was in the wheels. No issues when checked. Noise matches speed. Has to be internal. Rode home at 30 to 35 with consistent noise( maybe a huge mistake), did not make it before it gave out. The power seemed consistent in gear until the failure. When clutch lever is pulled in, engine runs smooth, engage and it clunks and lurches as it tries to limp along. I have successfully kept my baby out of the stealers shop by doing many things myself, thanks to you guys. Any chance I should go at it. If it is clutch or tranny related I just don't know if I'm up to it. Drivetrain related and I think I could tackle it.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2013, 07:51:26 AM » |
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With the little information you give, probably the first thought would be that the pinion cup and drive shaft connection has given it up.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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HayHauler
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« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2013, 07:55:58 AM » |
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With the little information you give, probably the first thought would be that the pinion cup and drive shaft connection has given it up.
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Ricky is spot on. Sounds like the drive shaft splines have taken a dump on ya. New Drive shaft, pinion cup, and drive shaft seal are in order. About $100 in parts. Hay  Jimmyt |
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deckerjr
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« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2013, 08:02:20 AM » |
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It seems that there may be some hope here. I just don't want to start a job then have to sheepishly walk into the stealer with a box of parts if it really is something out of my capabilities. The noise was consistent while driving it and it match RPMs until the real failure. When loading it up last night, I could get it to move when I would engage the clutch, but the clunks were kind of horrifying.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2013, 08:30:36 AM » |
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It seems that there may be some hope here. I just don't want to start a job then have to sheepishly walk into the stealer with a box of parts if it really is something out of my capabilities. The noise was consistent while driving it and it match RPMs until the real failure. When loading it up last night, I could get it to move when I would engage the clutch, but the clunks were kind of horrifying.
If you have a jack, jack-adapter and are comfortable taking the wheel off, you can do this... -Mike |
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olddog1946
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« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2013, 08:46:29 AM » |
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It seems that there may be some hope here. I just don't want to start a job then have to sheepishly walk into the stealer with a box of parts if it really is something out of my capabilities. The noise was consistent while driving it and it match RPMs until the real failure. When loading it up last night, I could get it to move when I would engage the clutch, but the clunks were kind of horrifying.
If you have a jack, jack-adapter and are comfortable taking the wheel off, you can do this... -Mike Agreed, if you have taken your tires off for a tire change you've done 85 % of the work before. There is nothing difficult about changing out any of those parts but I would recommend you also check your u-joint, which will require removal of the rear master cylinder and u-joint boot. Again not difficult, just take your time and all will be well with the world. |
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VRCC # 32473
US AIR FORCE E7, Retired 1965-1988
01 Valk Std.
02 BMW k1200LTE
65 Chevelle coupe, 1986 Mazda RX-7 with 350/5spd, 1983 Mazda RX-7 with FOMOCO 302/AOD project, 95 Mustang GT Convertible 5.0, 5 spd
Moses Lake, Wa. 509-760-6382 if you need help
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old2soon
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« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2013, 11:52:35 AM » |
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What these guys said bout changing tires or doing the rear end service-simple R & R. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Chiefy
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« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2013, 08:22:44 PM » |
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Start slow before you start buying parts you may not need. Check the rear end fluid and see if you have any chunks come out or stuck on the magnetic drain plug. Pull the rear wheel off and look at those splines. If all is well, start looking up line until you find the problem.
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 1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles |
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PhredValk
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« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2013, 09:39:48 PM » |
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Slightly reminiscent of when my rear left wheel bearing went south. Take the wheel off, pull the pumpkin and drive shaft. Check everything.
How does the clutch lever feel? Friction point changed?
Fred.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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