Halogen Head Lights

[The Dawg]

I have the standard headlight on my '97 Valk.  Are the new halogen ligths interchangeable by just changing the bulbs, or do you have to change the whole light?  Would like a bit more light out in front of me with all the deer in NE Ga.

Thanks

[Patrick]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/headlightmod.htm

[BobB]

I take it that you are looking to put in a higher wattage halogen bulb in the head lamp.  You should already have a halogen bulb there.  Yes you can bump up the wattage, but on our Valkyries there is a "starter switch" issue that will come into play when you do so.  The circuit feeding the head light goes through the starter switch on the right handle bar to cut off the lamp when starting the bike and it also goes through the high/low beam switch on the left.  These switches can easily arc out and fail due to the high current going through them and this happens even with the standard head lamps.
Try searching for "starter switch" on this message board. 

I would recommend some type of auxiliary lighting on your Valk.



   

[snakemeister]

  I put a PIAA bulb in my '97  Tourer a few months back and got a lot more light. It's suppose the put out much more light with the same wattage as the standard bulb with less heat generated.The one I put in cost $36 off Ebay and I'm happy with it so far.

[snakemeister]

BTY- The part number for the PIAA I put in my '97 stock Tourer is 15214. It fits the stock light socket.

[snakemeister]

 I  live in central Alabama and have all but quit riding at night,except the interstate, because of deer. It's just so dangerous it not much fun because you're always on edge.

[snakemeister]

  Last year a guy was killed when he hit a deer on his motorcycle at night about four miles from where I live. That deer's antler stabbed him in the throat is what killed him.

[98pacecar]

I  live in central Alabama and have all but quit riding at night,except the interstate, because of deer. It's just so dangerous it not much fun because you're always on edge.

 

Really   

Recently, bought my 98 from the Birmingham area,,,

n' while cleaning it, found what looked like a chrome deer whistle on the lower triple tree.

Now,,, I guess,,,, I understand, WHY    ???

By the way, do those kinds things even,,,, work???

[mike4sho]

Deers scare me around here. I hear the whistle doesnt work.  I remember that someone on another forum said...why get the whistle to scare the deer away.  You want them to freeze not freak out and run....into the bike since they are stupid.

[Jess from VA]

The debate on deer whistles goes on.  Plus there are air flow (only) activated and electronic whistles.

My favorite story is the auto body guys who, upon writing the estimate for the car with a deer whistle which hit a deer, noted that the guy was covered for a new front end, and a new deer whistle. People think they do more good up front... where they hit the deer.

I think the only things that cut down on deer strikes are 1) how many deer are in the areas you ride, 2) your attentive vision and quick reaction times, and 3) pure luck.

Night riding (plus early AM and late afternoon) during the rut is Venison (as opposed to Russian) roulette. 

I avoid night riding because there are way more drunks than deer in suburbia.  And my night time vision is not what it used to be.

[MarkT]

I take it that you are looking to put in a higher wattage halogen bulb in the head lamp.  You should already have a halogen bulb there.  Yes you can bump up the wattage, but on our Valkyries there is a "starter switch" issue that will come into play when you do so.  The circuit feeding the head light goes through the starter switch on the right handle bar to cut off the lamp when starting the bike and it also goes through the high/low beam switch on the left.  These switches can easily arc out and fail due to the high current going through them and this happens even with the standard head lamps.
Try searching for "starter switch" on this message board. 

I would recommend some type of auxiliary lighting on your Valk.

If you do the headlight mod Patrick linked (and I wrote) you will eliminate the load on those switches - it will then be only the trigger load for the relays.  Then you can add the highest level of wattage you can find.  OK, you can at least double it to 130/90 - I've been running that wattage for 15 years.  Also change to a hi-cap plug - I think NAPA sells them pretty cheap.

But I would still recommend add'l auxiliary lighting.  I have 2 pairs of spots in addition to the 130/90 headlight with modulator.  2 of them are aircraft landing lights.  I can easily see brown deer on the road or ditch a half mile away - assuming these lights are on.  If not - I'm generally letting a cage run point for me.

Deer whistles don't work, according to the Insuranc Institute for Vehicle Safety (or some name like that).  I have a huge horn that when blown inspires a hesitating deer to move.  I'd rather blow it and make him run in front of me when I'm expecting it, than him wait until I get to him then he does it.

[Jess from VA]

The other thing you need to know is the OE Honda halogens (45/45) and H4 commercial halogens (most use 55/60s, which require no wiring /socket upgrades) are identical inside, but when replacing Honda bulbs with auto parts H4s, you have to cut two of three ears off the H4 bulb base.  It is when you go to higher power bulbs that you need to upgrade wiring/sockets........ except not on the interstate, because the airflow thru the fairing is large, unlike the bucket on std/tourers.

I've run 80/100 and 90/100 H4s in my interstate for years on all stock wiring and socket with nary a hiccup.

[BF]

There were 2 of the non-electronic deer whistles on my bike when I first bought it from the previous owner. 

I ride alot at night commuting back and forth to work. 

I see alot of deer standing on the side of the road on my 8 mile ride to work. 

I can tell you first hand that those kind of deer whistles are pure snake oil.....the don't do squat. 

I'm more scared of hitting a bear around here anymore than a deer.  The bear population seems to be exploding lately. 

[The Dawg]

Thanks everyone for the information.  I have a better place to start looking.

[MarkT]

The other thing you need to know is the OE Honda halogens (45/45) and H4 commercial halogens (most use 55/60s, which require no wiring /socket upgrades) are identical inside, but when replacing Honda bulbs with auto parts H4s, you have to cut two of three ears off the H4 bulb base.  It is when you go to higher power bulbs that you need to upgrade wiring/sockets........ except not on the interstate, because the airflow thru the fairing is large, unlike the bucket on std/tourers.

I've run 80/100 and 90/100 H4s in my interstate for years on all stock wiring and socket with nary a hiccup.

Sorry Jess.  There's plenty of wind coming through the std bucket.  There's a large gap all around the bezel and a big hole in the back the wires come out.  I regularly find big bugs in there.  And have run my 130/90 bulb for over 100,000 miles, always at least 90 watts.  No negative effects to the std hardware, except had to replace the bulb plug with a HD one maybe 30k miles into it. I had already done the relay mod. No degrading of the reflector, same for the lens.  You still need to upgrade the wiring and plug if you go to big watts - but the relay mod should be done anyway even for a stock bulb as Honda got cheap on the headlight wiring, not using relays and running that load through the starter & Hi-Lo switches.

[Jess from VA]

I stand corrected Mark, never owned a std/tourer.

I am betting the IS fairing (including the light sockets) is much better vented than the bucket thou.   I've seen several pics on here of std bucket socket/wiring burns from hi output (high watt) bulbs..... never seen such a pic or post for an interstate.

You still confirm that hi output bulbs in a Valk bucket require some mods though, right?  That was the point I was trying to make.

[MarkT]

Yeah the relay upgrade should be done no matter what.  Even with stock bulbs or likely eventually the switches will need repair or replacement.  My point being, it doesn't get hot in the bucket from a lack of ventilation, and with those 2 mods the headlight will handle the power w/o more damage - like ruining the reflector or lens.  Actually it's the cheapest and easiest way to put a lot of light down the road.  But installing spots is still better for safety, to make a big light profile look from the front.  Maybe not better for more light downrange however - depending on the spots.  My aircraft lights definitely are great for that, but other spots, depends.

[Jess from VA]

Completely agree on adding lights.... day or night (but especially day), more forward lights is probably the single best safety add-on you can do... to BE seen, not for you to see.  My 35Watt caliper mount Motos add very little to my ability to see better at night (and completely disappear with the fairing brights on), but they are visible a long way out in front of me..... and are always on.

I crack up every time you mention aircraft landing lights.  You must get mistaken for low flying UFOs. 

Have a nice Christmas. 

[shootist007]

  I ran over a deer four years ago last august, I now run an electronic deer whistle and a forward looking infared radar (FLIR) with a 7in monitor. Really nice to see out in the fields way out in front.

[Ricky-D]

My opinion regarding needing to be seen (in front) is also paramount, daytime especially.

To me, the best solution for this is necessarily the addition of headlight modulators.

Talk about being noticed!  Most car drivers must think "cop" with the way some pull over
when I have them "on".

As an added note. There have been times I have been blinded by some daytime lighting.
 
I hate the thought of a blind driver, coming at me with his car. Or bike as the case may be!

***

[Probie (Scooter57)]

What can you tell me about installing an H I D kit in the bike? My son did that with his KZ 636 and the light it puts out is great. I want to do that with my 98 tourer.

[Pappy!]

There were 2 of the non-electronic deer whistles on my bike when I first bought it from the previous owner. 

I ride alot at night commuting back and forth to work. 

I see alot of deer standing on the side of the road on my 8 mile ride to work. 

I can tell you first hand that those kind of deer whistles are pure snake oil.....the don't do squat. 

I'm more scared of hitting a bear around here anymore than a deer.  The bear population seems to be exploding lately. 

BF - You got that right! They are in Central Florida as well.
Walked out on my back porch a few months ago and one was standing inside my porch about 5 feet away from me! She walked out but turned at the last moment.
Couple nights ago the same bear, now with two cubs, was standing under my bedroom window along with her cubs. Training them on the art of raiding garbage cans. Would hate to hit a bear for sure!

[Ken Tarver]

Scooter, this is what I have, on a '97 tourer,
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HIDBIKESINGLEHILODDM-35W-55W-Single-HiLo-Motorcycle-HID-Kit

the wire harness with kit has it's own relay and is wired direct from the battery, the stock bike wiring only fires the relay which then carries the load of the light instead of the switch and stock wiring.

"HiLo" what that isn't, means NOT brighter on hi beam, but a change in the angle of the bulb by an electro-magnet which makes the light shine further down the road.

What I ordered:
wattage, 35w bulb (55w too much)
bulb type, H4 HiLo
bulb color, 5000k (white light)

going down from 5000k color the light starts going yellow
going up from 5000k color the light gets blue

inside the headlight bucket, I removed the "mushroom thingy" in front of the bulb.


Ken

[bentwrench]

FLIR? where do i get one.