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Ferris Leets
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« on: July 21, 2009, 10:43:32 AM » |
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Got all of the parts, ready to go, don't understand instructions.
Here is the ? Since I am using a optional pot do I need to do the first set of instructions? From what I read it looks like the resistor is now on the pot not in the line and the diode is not needed because I am not "T"ing into the wire. The pot is going in line on the green/black wire.
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SlowRoad
Member
Posts: 368
Heart of a Legend with a whole lot of Soul
Hartselle AL
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« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2009, 11:06:08 AM » |
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This is what mine looks like  |
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« Last Edit: July 21, 2009, 11:07:39 AM by SlowRoad »
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2009, 12:29:49 PM » |
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Blurry, I can not tell which wires you are hooked to. The instructions I read have only two wires connected to the pot. Where do your 2 wires go? One has a diode, why?
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fudgie
Member
Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2009, 02:39:13 PM » |
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I didn't understand them either so I didn't use the pot. Had it on for 2 or 3 years now with no problem.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR |
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2009, 04:58:55 PM » |
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I think I get it now.
SlowRoad,
What is the 3rd wire running from your POT? The resistor seems to only make the Pot have less range. Is that the reason for it? After enlarging the pictures I see what I was missing before. Also some of the wire colors listed seem different. I used my VOM to chech out the pot and resistor setup. It took me a couple of cups of Coffee to understand why it is hooked up so that the "off" position is actuall the fully on position. Now that I understand I can go mess with it.
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BlueValk
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2009, 05:20:27 PM » |
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Hi Ferris,
Sorry for the unclear instructions. It seems clear once you know what it says, but that doesn't really help at first.
It sounds like you have it down now, but to clarify:
Yes, the resistor is just to limit the range of the pot to a more useful range. You do want to keep the diode(s) in with or without the pot. The second diode is to disable the circuit with the clutch pulled in.
It was originally planned that full ccw was "off" (least resistance), and full cw was full "on" (max resistance).
Hope you get it going without any more hassles.
BlueValk
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humshark
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2009, 07:09:10 PM » |
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Yes, the resistor is just to limit the range of the pot to a more useful range. I have played with this quite a bit. I set up originally with the resistor and was not happy with the result. The adjustment was very touchy and off to one side of the pot's turn range. After measuring the pot ( A 10k audio taper ) - I found that if I had soldered to the opposite terminals it would have operated more like the description. ( Would a linear pot eliminate this? ) I opted to to use the pot without the resistor and short one side. That means that maximum resistance is obtained in the middle of the range and then decreases in each direction of travel from there. I can now quickly dial maximum advance n the center, and dial it down either direction in traffic jams. BLUEVALK has done a great job of documenting and writing instructions. This was born out of my own curiosity and original mistake. Lastly - I used a quik disconnect plug and routed the two wires up to my interstate faring. I can take the panels off and unplug the adjustment pot when i unplug my speakers. |
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99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked
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Momz
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« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2009, 07:48:48 PM » |
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I question the use of the potentometer. Using a Pot you might dial in a bit to much advance (especially using an I/S ICM).
When I did my ECT Mod, I chose the highest tolerance resistor that I could get as well as a high amp rating on both the resistor and diode.
I've dealt with electronics for years and I firmly believe that the simpler your circuits, the fewer problems you will have over time. Proper soldering and insulation will keep your modification working virtually forever.
I always use mid grade gas and have never had a problem with pinging or knock. If you run a louder than stock exhaust, you may never hear the pinging or knock.
My advise is KISS (keep it simple stupid).
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 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
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humshark
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« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2009, 08:20:57 PM » |
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My advise is KISS (keep it simple stupid).  I work electronics in some form or another as long as I can remember. ( I actually took apart my brothers "speak and spell" long before ET ever did! ) I'm not saying that to boast, but rather to say that I have thought, and mathematically figured out the circuit. The interstate will only give X amount of advance, period, and it is phased out above 3k RPM. The resistance at which maximum advance is given is less than the 3.9k ohms designated in the mod. The circuit utilizing the POT actually presents LESS resistance (when dialed for the highest resistance - maximum resistance is 2.8k) to the circuit than the modification without the POT. This is because the resistor and the POT "windings" are in parallel. Simplicity is why i decided to eliminate the resistor altogether and use the pot. In my circuit I generate a maximum of 2.5k and can easily "dial" the advance. I can then turn it off altogether when sitting in traffic ( run cooler and no need to pop into neutral ) I still have not, but am planning on trying to hook up an old zenon timing light to the bike to see and measure the full advance. I too run Mid-grade and have not worried about "ping". |
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99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2009, 09:04:45 PM » |
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I put it together per instructions. I also question the need for the resistor but it is in now. I can always remove it later, if I find a reason. I put the pot on the right side above the speaker. It would have gone a lot faster but I triple checked every thing I did. Good thing because on the third check of the instructions and Diode I realized I had it in backwards. It was covered with heat shrink already so I could not see the mistake. Checked with the VOM to be sure and found it was wrong.
Raining now but tomorrow I will see if it works as advertised!
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humshark
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« Reply #10 on: July 22, 2009, 05:15:33 AM » |
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It was covered with heat shrink already so I could not see the mistake. Checked with the VOM to be sure and found it was wrong. Good Catch Ferris! I mounted mine above the right speaker as well. Makes it easy to adjust when sitting at a light, in gear, with the clutch puled in. You can hear and see the RPM change when adjusting. ( Make sure the engine is at operating temperature ) Since we don't know the range, I have decided to use it more like an on / off. While in traffic, I will turn the advance off. At Johnson City this past weekend, ( BMW MOA rally ) there was quite a bit of off road field riding in order to get to camp. While the advance gave me all the grunt i needed, i turned it down again since the grass was wet and slipping the clutch around for so long made for a hot bike! |
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99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked
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Ferris Leets
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« Reply #11 on: July 22, 2009, 08:32:37 AM » |
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I have a pretty good history on my gas mileage so far. I will be doing an extensive test with the pot to see what it does.
At this point at about 1/2 it starts to raise the RPMs, at about 3/4 it is as far up as it is going to go which is MAYBE 200 rpm. So the effective adjustment is only about 70° to 80°
After I fool with this for a while I will probably remove the resistor and do another series of tests.
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