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sawdustar
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« on: January 21, 2014, 03:46:30 PM » |
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Well, I've been away for a while for the day job and for family stuff. Back now. I've noticed that my valk is getting fuel stains around where the intakes connect to the cylinder head. I guess this means that I need to replace the o-rings. I need to find out what all is involved in this process and estimated costs. I will be doing the work myself. Is there anything else that I need to "fix" before the primary ride season arrives? I mean, I feel like I've been through the whole bike....well....at least my bank account looks like I've gone through the whole bike.  Thoughts, prayers, and advice welcomed.... |
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Thank You,
Dennis
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2014, 04:05:07 PM » |
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It's a pretty easy job. Just gotta remove the intake tube , remove old o-ring and put on new one. Probably an hour tops for all 6. Only thing is make sure the o-ring doesn't move out of position when reinstalling.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15237
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2014, 04:25:44 PM » |
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Loosen the hose clamp at the top, I always slip it up over its groove so it's out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding the intake down, grab the intake near the bottom and pull out and up. It will pop out of the rubber intake at the top. If you're going to remove all at one time, be sure to cover the intake holes...they're a magnet for small bits and pieces. A dab of grease in a couple spots will hold the new o-rings in place, spray the top of the tube with some alcohol and reverse your removal action. Start the tube at the top, press in and up and it should slip into place.
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2014, 04:32:11 PM » |
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I changed my air filter at the same time, and replaced all the vacuum plugs and the vacuum line to #6. There's no need to just change out plugs and lines willy-nilly, mine were hard and old. I also changed my spark plugs. I didn't expect my bike to run so much better when I got done, bonus!  Given that I had my tank off (nobody takes their tank off just for this) I loosened the bolt that holds the airbox to the frame, and removed all the intake runner bolts, then the whole assembly was just freefloating in there. It is a breeze to remove the runners (I do it one at a time) when they're not held down so tight by the airbox... -Mike |
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sawdustar
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« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2014, 04:50:10 PM » |
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Well, let's all remember this: This bike has NEVER had anything done to it except for tires, brakes, oil, filters, fuel, and a checkup for it at the local motorcycle shop about 30,000 miles ago. The bike now has about 78,0000 miles on it and it does a lot better since I replaced o-rings and lubed the splines and such as well as replacing the rubber pads in the rear wheel. I do have the front fork seals that I need to do. One of the is seeping a bit of oil and I do NOT want to ruin my new front rotors and brake pads. That was $500 I wasn't expecting. yea, I may need to replace the fuel line and vacuum lines....most of the rubber hoses that I've checked so far are hard with small dry rot cracks in a couple of them. 1997 Valkyrie Tourer is what I have. I'm also looking at putting the stock pipes back on the bike and get these loud pipes off of it. Nobody can ride it without ear plugs...it's even louder when you put on a FF helmet.!!!!! The previous owner gave me the stock pipes w/piggies still on the pipes. I guess I'll need to replace the exhaust gaskets, the broken exhaust stud on the right side of the motor, AND replace the nuts on both sides to hold the pipes on the bike. Shoot....I'm getting tired just thinking about all this. I already know that I'll need a new front tire by spring and prolly a new back tire as well. I think I'll go CT on the Valk....   |
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Thank You,
Dennis
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2014, 04:59:13 PM » |
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Obviously you'd want to change the gas line if you saw a reason it needed changed.
Mine (97 with 86K) seems OK. I looked hard at it, and the places it goes. It kind of
looked like it would be pretty tedious to replace. I changed some of the carb drain
lines at the same time, it is close work in there, and easier when the intake runners
are off...
-Mike
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2014, 05:48:07 PM » |
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Good to see you on the board again Sawduster. Rich at redeye has the Orings. For some reason I thought you had desmogged your bike and also installed a Dan Marc fuel shot off valve. I would have changed the intake Orings at that time.? Anyway, if you haven't you may want to increase repair/modification job some. Also, I think I remembered you had synched the carbs on your bike. I better quit before I'm made out to be looney.   http://redeye.ecrater.com/ |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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sawdustar
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« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2014, 06:38:01 PM » |
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Hey salty1....!!!!!!!! Good to hear from you again.!!!!! Well...I just gotta figure out where to get all the necessary parts and get them ordered in the next couple of weeks so I can do it while it's cold and rainy outside. I'm really nervous about trying to remove that broken exhaust stud on the rear brake side....but I do know it needs to be done....I've just never done anything like that before. I guess this old dawg will need to learn a new trick.  |
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Thank You,
Dennis
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Wewaman
Member
Posts: 423
Dead Lakes Cruiser
Wewa, Fla.
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« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2014, 07:20:56 AM » |
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Clymer says to make sure you put the intake runners back where they came from. But I did not do that but I'm thinking that with new O'rings it wont matter. (I hope so because I have not put the gas tank back on and started her yet. Also the broken exhaust studs are designed to leave you enough stud to be able to remove them if they break. I just grabbed the broken stud with vice grips and with a "little" effort it came out nicely. Good luck. Wewa |
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If you please God it doesn't matter who you displease but if you displease God it doesn't matter who you please  |
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BamaDrifter64
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« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2014, 11:38:21 AM » |
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The worst part about replacing broken exhaust studs is paying for them!!!
Dave
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whitestroke
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« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2014, 09:42:50 PM » |
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Exhaust studs come out real easy, if not spay with wd-40 or equivalent. Buy a few extra studs you'll be glad you did. Some may be bent and you may break some tightening them.
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Minibike
Honda S90
Yamaha YL100
Bultaco 250 Matador
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Yamaha 250 YZ
Triumph 650 Bonni
Honda ATC 200
2 Kids 25 year break.
Suzuki GS 500
2003 VTX 1300S,
1998 Valk standard
2008 Goldwing
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sawdustar
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« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2014, 07:06:21 AM » |
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OMG, I just looked up those exhaust bolts....studs.....$2.60 each...!!!!???? Really.!????? Instake Orings from the same places is listed as $4.50 each......for a stupid o-ring.!!!! I haven't even looked at what the exhaust gaskets are yet....I'm almost afraid to look.   |
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Thank You,
Dennis
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16788
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2014, 07:14:17 AM » |
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OMG, I just looked up those exhaust bolts....studs.....$2.60 each...!!!!???? Really.!????? Instake Orings from the same places is listed as $4.50 each......for a stupid o-ring.!!!! I haven't even looked at what the exhaust gaskets are yet....I'm almost afraid to look. All that stuff will seem cheap when you look up how much the nuts for the exhaust studs co$t... -Mike |
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sawdustar
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« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2014, 08:31:19 AM » |
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OMG, I just looked up those exhaust bolts....studs.....$2.60 each...!!!!???? Really.!????? Instake Orings from the same places is listed as $4.50 each......for a stupid o-ring.!!!! I haven't even looked at what the exhaust gaskets are yet....I'm almost afraid to look. All that stuff will seem cheap when you look up how much the nuts for the exhaust studs co$t... -Mike OMG...!!!! $53 for just the cap nuts.!!!! I gotta see if I can find them somewhere for cheaper. |
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Thank You,
Dennis
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2014, 08:38:05 AM » |
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You wont!
Just get a bunch of extra nuts and stack them on the revealed portion of the stud threads.
That's what the acorn nuts are for. To protect the threads from degradation.
Stacked nuts do the same!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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PhredValk
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« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2014, 08:06:43 PM » |
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Carolina Bike and Trike has the set of 6 O-rings for $9.99; and while you're there order the 5 sets of rear wheel O-rings for $12.99 and be all set for your next 5 rear end cleanings. http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htmFred. |
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
VRCCDS0237
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