Rear splines and gear set replacement

[flcjr]

I've taken apart the valk to replace the rear splines they are almost worn out. Thinking of doing the goldwing press out if I can find a good one for a good price. If not will buy new valk gear set. My question is not having the tools to set up and figure out what shim I need was thinking the old shim should be right and gears are machined to tight tolerences and variable is in the housing. Or am I wrong in thinking this??

[hubcapsc]

I've taken apart the valk to replace the rear splines they are almost worn out. Thinking of doing the goldwing press out if I can find a good one for a good price. If not will buy new valk gear set. My question is not having the tools to set up and figure out what shim I need was thinking the old shim should be right and gears are machined to tight tolerences and variable is in the housing. Or am I wrong in thinking this??

While I've done the press-out thing to a couple of final drives, I am far far from an expert... if I understand
your question, I think doing the press-out mostly saves you from having to deal with shimming -
same ring gear, same shim, while putting a whole new ring gear in requires a
skillful install involving proper shimming and extra, more difficult stuff (the gear that gets
spun by the ring gear) to replace...

[Ricky-D]

Yes, replacing the ring and pinion gears involve all that, and more.

The best thing is to download the manual, or at least read the parts that

deal with that process. it's very comprehensive.

Additionally, it's going to take a lot of mechanical ability to complete the

job successfully.

***

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

I rebuilt mine. Used all Honda parts and replaced everything that event hinted of a problem. With all the changes I had to re-shim. Problem is not having all the shims handy. Manual says use Prussian blue, which isn't easy to find these days (grainger has it though) and isn't quite a easy to use as the newer compounds but I wanted to stick by the book. Got about 15k on the rebuild now without any hint of a problem but its a very expensive way to go. Takes a lot of time an you have to buy or make special tools.

[old2soon]

The Grumman C 2 A has a segmented disks brakes on the main mounts. The assistant maintenance officer was a butter bar-Navy Ensign-and greener than grass. I was directing a noobee pilot to a parking spot on the ramp in the P I. By the time we got him parked he had those brakes SMOKIN!!  The Ensign wanted me to hit those brakes with a Co2 extinguisher.  My response was-with all due respect to yer rate and pay grade SIR  smack it in yer ass SIR. The C O was the command pilot and when he found out what was going on-he talked to me first AWAY from the rest of the air crew-talked to the Ensign next AWAY from the rest of us and the Skipper called me back over and said Pat-I gave him an ass chewing he will NEVER forget and the skipper was a pro-chew around the hole and let the hole drop out.  Seems like the more brass they got the better officer they became. And my frame of reference is on the Airedale side of uncle sugars canoe club.  RIDE SAFE.

[HayHauler]

The Grumman C 2 A has a segmented disks brakes on the main mounts. The assistant maintenance officer was a butter bar-Navy Ensign-and greener than grass. I was directing a noobee pilot to a parking spot on the ramp in the P I. By the time we got him parked he had those brakes SMOKIN!!  The Ensign wanted me to hit those brakes with a Co2 extinguisher.  My response was-with all due respect to yer rate and pay grade SIR  smack it in yer ass SIR. The C O was the command pilot and when he found out what was going on-he talked to me first AWAY from the rest of the air crew-talked to the Ensign next AWAY from the rest of us and the Skipper called me back over and said Pat-I gave him an ass chewing he will NEVER forget and the skipper was a pro-chew around the hole and let the hole drop out.  Seems like the more brass they got the better officer they became. And my frame of reference is on the Airedale side of uncle sugars canoe club.  RIDE SAFE.

WTF?!  I guess I am lost.......

Hay 
Jimmyt

[Joe Hummer]

The Grumman C 2 A has a segmented disks brakes on the main mounts. The assistant maintenance officer was a butter bar-Navy Ensign-and greener than grass. I was directing a noobee pilot to a parking spot on the ramp in the P I. By the time we got him parked he had those brakes SMOKIN!!  The Ensign wanted me to hit those brakes with a Co2 extinguisher.  My response was-with all due respect to yer rate and pay grade SIR  smack it in yer ass SIR. The C O was the command pilot and when he found out what was going on-he talked to me first AWAY from the rest of the air crew-talked to the Ensign next AWAY from the rest of us and the Skipper called me back over and said Pat-I gave him an ass chewing he will NEVER forget and the skipper was a pro-chew around the hole and let the hole drop out.  Seems like the more brass they got the better officer they became. And my frame of reference is on the Airedale side of uncle sugars canoe club.  RIDE SAFE.

WTF?!  I guess I am lost.......

Hay 
Jimmyt

Nice story...but quite random and off topic...i think...unless it was to indicate that you really should follow the right procedures instead of taking short cuts.   

I have not had to bust into my rear end yet....damn...that does NOT sound right...Instead of rear end...change that to final drive...yeah...that is better.  But...when I do have to, I will make sure that I re-shim.  The shimming is a product of quality tolerances on the parts being produced.  Each part that come out has a slightly different tolerance to them.  You may get real lucky and be able to re-use the shims you have now, but changes are...they won't be right.  It is better to check and re-shim to make sure it is right.  JMHO...whatever that is worth these days...

Joe

[Ricky-D]

If you go to HDL or another Honda OEM dealer you'll see there are shims available for both gears.

There is also a possibility that you will need shims for the rub button.

There are probably shims already present in the final drive for the existing gear set.

All the shims are reusable, regardless. And you may not need any, if you get lucky!

You can use a grease in place of Prussian blue. It works fine.

I drilled a hole to punch the rub button out. Easy enough to use a self tapping bolt to plug it later on.

I used my drill press to press off the bearings on the pinion. I replaced no bearings.

I made a simple jig to press off the bearings.

I think I have a few shims left over, not sure tho.

I used 'yellow dog" on the hub cover.

***

[Valkpilot]

I've taken apart the valk to replace the rear splines they are almost worn out. Thinking of doing the goldwing press out if I can find a good one for a good price. If not will buy new valk gear set. My question is not having the tools to set up and figure out what shim I need was thinking the old shim should be right and gears are machined to tight tolerences and variable is in the housing. Or am I wrong in thinking this??

If you are just pressing the spline cup out of the ring gear of a GW final drive, and pressing that spline cup into the ring gear of your final drive, you probably will not have to worry about shimming at all.  You should not be affecting the existing alignments and clearances.

But, if you are installing a new ring and pinion set, then you need a complete set of shims, marking grease, and the patience to get it right.

[pancho]

I have done the "wing spline pressout" and found that by using your existing gears, it made using the existing ring gear shim the right one to get proper gear lash. As stated above, if you change one or both gears, that is a whole different ballgame, and different size shims will probably be required.....  Also, personally  I would not change the ring gear alone, if I was changing the gears, I would do both as a set, which would require a complete setup.... an involved job.  Best bet.. "wing spline pressout", quick and easy.   Make sure you have a good flange to match up with your good splines.


So,,, your thinking is correct.. I had the favor of God on me and got a wing final from ebay with perfect splines for $50 or so with shipping, and Mike,  hubcapSC, shipped me a good flange for $35 or so with shipping... well under a hundred dollars total, (reused the seal) working perfectly with several thousand miles on it.

[pancho]

One final note on working on the final drive,, when resealing the case, pay careful attention to the manuals instructions on sealant placement,,, there are a couple of vent holes that the sealant needs to be kept out of. Otherwise, there will be problems when the drive and lubrication heats up.

[RONNIEB]

Can we just use a GW final drive? Lord knows our bikes have enough power and torque tohack the taller gears.Would loose some low end but might gain some mpg.

[indybobm]

Can we just use a GW final drive? Lord knows our bikes have enough power and torque tohack the taller gears.Would loose some low end but might gain some mpg.

The GW housing is physically different where it bolts to the swingarm. The gear ratio is the same. Same number of teeth on the ring and pinion gear. The gears look identical except for the smaller snout on the GW pinion gear.

[flcjr]

Thanx for the input. ON the hunt for a wing drive with good splines if anyone has one let me know.

[hubcapsc]

Thanx for the input. ON the hunt for a wing drive with good splines if anyone has one let me know.

Look for trike shops.

Ebay has them, cheap too, but even with good pictures it is hit or miss on
ending up with a good one that way. I got one I didn't  want to use
from ebay, and another one that I did use.

Splines from all 1500 wings are appropriate, but 88 and 89 flanges are not (the rest are)...

-Mike

[Valkpilot]

Thanx for the input. ON the hunt for a wing drive with good splines if anyone has one let me know.

Look for trike shops.

Ebay has them, cheap too, but even with good pictures it is hit or miss on
ending up with a good one that way. I got one I didn't  want to use
from ebay, and another one that I did use.

Splines from all 1500 wings are appropriate, but 88 and 89 flanges are not (the rest are)...

-Mike

I always try and buy the star hub (flange) that goes with the GW final drive, because they are already wear-mated.  Plus, you can usually get a more clear picture of the spline condition by looking at the the star hub.  If the splines on it are in good shape, generally the ones in the drive are good too.

[quexpress]

There is also a possibility that you will need shims for the rub button.
I drilled a hole to punch the rub button out. Easy enough to use a self tapping bolt to plug it later on.

What is the rub button?
Thanks!

[Ricky-D]

"Rub Button"  my own description.

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=4223948&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=188146

Part number 15 and the shims are Part #16

This is fully explained in the shop manual repair section

***

[quexpress]

"Rub Button"  my own description.

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=4223948&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=188146

Part number 15 and the shims are Part #16

This is fully explained in the shop manual repair section

***

Thank you!