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Author Topic: concerned about proper installation  (Read 1075 times)
mrmessy
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Posts: 32

Clarkdale, Arizona


« on: February 01, 2014, 11:36:33 AM »

Have a concern weather I put my rear tire back on properly. How can you be sure the spline gear is fully engauged with the final drive gear. The black band on the right side does not look like its on all the way. everything else looks fine, wheel spins freely, breaks dont bind, and axle torqued fine. Transmition stops wheel when dropped into gear. How can I be sure? Thanks, this is my first rear tire change. The video makes it look so easy.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2014, 11:57:41 AM »

If by the black band, you are talking about the dustcover around the center of the drive unit, it never looks like it is all the way on... there is a groove showing that you think should be under the dust cover, but it doesn't go under the dust cover.  Had the same worry my first time too.

The other thing (question) is, did you not tighten the four nuts on the drive unit connection until the very last step of the reinstall?  If not, jack the bike up, loosen them up, spin the wheel, and tighten them again.  This is the main point to ensure you got a good spline mate-up.

The four bolts/nuts on the right side of the pic.

« Last Edit: February 01, 2014, 12:06:59 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
mrmessy
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Posts: 32

Clarkdale, Arizona


« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2014, 12:54:49 PM »

Thanks for the quick responce. Yes I did loosen those 4 bolts on the drive unit before I torqued the Axle and tighted them afterward so all should be good cooldude thanks again
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2014, 01:14:19 PM »

If you have the spacer and the brake caliper mount with the axle thru all of it and you torque the axle nut First then save the drive shaft side(the 4 nuts)til LAST it's lined up correctly. While still on the lift wheel should turn freely no obnoxious noises or grinding type sounds yer good to go. QUESTIONS-new grease and O-rings for splines and fresh synthetic 80/90 gear lube. Little dab of grease for the end of the drive shaft into the U-joint. Check yer tire pressures and now go ride it like ya stole it.  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
salty1
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Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2014, 09:00:50 AM »

Jess did you polish the final drive housing yourself? If so, was it a big job? Sorry for taking a tangent here. Roll Eyes
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

olddog1946
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Posts: 1830


Moses Lake, Wa


« Reply #5 on: February 02, 2014, 11:15:54 AM »

Jess did you polish the final drive housing yourself? If so, was it a big job? Sorry for taking a tangent here. Roll Eyes

I'm pretty sure his is a 2000 or newer std/tourer, they have polished final drives OEM. I don't know about I/S as I've never actually paid attention to any of the 01 and up.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2014, 11:18:01 AM by olddog1946 » Logged

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Jess from VA
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« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2014, 11:28:59 AM »

A - That is not MY final drive (just one copied off the web for illustration)

B - I have not polished either of my ('99 interstate) drives; they are both pretty clean dull grey original with some cloudy spots but still clear coated.  Since buried behind the bags and nearly invisible (unless you fall over), I have not thought to do so.  Bad enough just keeping the wheels shiny.... or just clean grey in back.

The polish job the interstate needs is the upper forks.  Haven't done those either.

Last time I got into that on another bike I used a few cans of Gummout carb cleaner to burn off the remaining clear coat, then polished with buffs and compounds.  It takes awhile.

This is my bike (avatar)... not much shows.


« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 10:48:30 AM by Jess from VA » Logged
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