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Author Topic: Carb Problem  (Read 739 times)
trout dude
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Posts: 1000


Hammond Louisiana


« on: February 15, 2014, 05:33:40 PM »

 I cant make the bike get to 900 rpm's to set the carbs. I rebuilt the carbs maybe I did something wrong I do know.
  Dennis
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2014, 05:43:08 PM »

A little more info would be helpful.

I assume that you are trying to adjust the idle and it does not adjust, check the linkage for correct assembly.

Also check for major vacuum leaks.
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trout dude
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Posts: 1000


Hammond Louisiana


« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2014, 07:19:10 PM »

 Hi Pete
  I did not take that apart also I found that the (PISTON, VACUUM SLIDES) where a little hard and not soft like my bike that is running. Any one know where to find them at a good price please let me know.
  Thanks Dennis
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2014, 05:12:11 AM »

I cant make the bike get to 900 rpm's to set the carbs. I rebuilt the carbs maybe I did something wrong I do know.
  Dennis


I have no idea what that means. Not enough info !
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trout dude
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Posts: 1000


Hammond Louisiana


« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2014, 06:13:39 AM »

Hi Patrick
 In order to sync the carbs do i have to start out with the idle at 900 rpm's. I just got the bike back together and running and it dose not idle low. It wants to idle high and kind of run away. When i rebuilt the carbs cleaned everything and put new o-rings but don't know to much about the slides. when i got the idle down and started syncing i notice one carb not staying same on the gauge. I pulled that slide out and it's not very soft. So i went to my other bike and pulled one out and it was real soft. I might be barking up the wrong tree but i don't know this is my first time going this deep on the valk. When i bought the bike it was locked up and a lot of it was in bags and boxes. So don't know where to go from here any help is great.
  Thanks Dennis
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Attic Rat
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Posts: 446


VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2014, 06:37:46 AM »

Those vacuum piston run just a little over 100.00 each but cheap cycle parts has them for 71.64 each
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2014, 06:39:33 AM »

The carburetor 'sync' starts while they are apart.  Then you don't have to do much 'adjusting' later. Before anything is installed everything should be checked to make sure its working freely and correctly. There is not too much to adjust the idle speed so it seems as though there is something 'warped/binding' on you.
But, to answer your question, yes, the idle speed should be at, and kept at, 900 to adjust the carburetors. As mentioned, they shouldn't take much adjustment at all. If they do, there is something wrong.
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2014, 08:06:42 AM »

Just start synching the carbs then go back adjust your idle as best you can. Go back through the synchronization process and adjust idle etc. I had a Valk with rebuilt carbs and after doing what's described above all worked out well.
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2014, 10:20:35 AM »

Hi Patrick
 In order to sync the carbs do i have to start out with the idle at 900 rpm's. I just got the bike back together and running and it dose not idle low. It wants to idle high and kind of run away. When i rebuilt the carbs cleaned everything and put new o-rings but don't know to much about the slides. when i got the idle down and started syncing i notice one carb not staying same on the gauge. I pulled that slide out and it's not very soft. So i went to my other bike and pulled one out and it was real soft. I might be barking up the wrong tree but i don't know this is my first time going this deep on the valk. When i bought the bike it was locked up and a lot of it was in bags and boxes. So don't know where to go from here any help is great.
  Thanks Dennis

If someone had adjusted the carbs while it was having problems, the setting could be way off and require resetting.

I would check that everything is set to standard.

I have not seen a diaphram get hard, most failures are holes or splits. If it is not a supple as the others in the same bike, I would replace it and check the others. Sounds like it was exposed to a drying agent.

A high, runaway idle can be a sign of a vacuum leak and a lean condition so check that . A heat gun can check the temperature of the header pipes to help identify which ones.
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