robin
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Posts: 2335
Get on it and RIDE!!
Hardwick NJ
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« on: February 25, 2014, 01:57:02 PM » |
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Do you put the foam pre filter in?
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Bota58
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« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2014, 02:31:28 PM » |
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Hi,most people that I've talked to have left them out especially if they have rejetted the carbs,I've got mine out also.
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Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting holy cow what a ride!
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2014, 02:34:18 PM » |
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Yes, it is called for in the Valk application.
It could cause a lean condition without it, but hundreds here run it with no prefilter so maybe not.
I always err on the side of protecting my bikes.
Recall the recent discussion about fine particles flowing thu the K & Ns, and how many (like me) go a year or two between tank pulls (and reoiling)? My prefilter gets pretty dirty, between tank pulls (and I spray it with brake cleaner and stomp on it to clean).
A dusty riding environment is also relevant.
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« Last Edit: February 25, 2014, 02:41:22 PM by Jess from VA »
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salty1
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Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2014, 03:37:54 PM » |
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Yes, it is called for in the Valk application.
It could cause a lean condition without it, but hundreds here run it with no prefilter so maybe not.
I always err on the side of protecting my bikes.
Recall the recent discussion about fine particles flowing thu the K & Ns, and how many (like me) go a year or two between tank pulls (and reoiling)? My prefilter gets pretty dirty, between tank pulls (and I spray it with brake cleaner and stomp on it to clean).
A dusty riding environment is also relevant.
+1  I prefer the prefilter because my Valk will run lean and backfire on decel.
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A  
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2014, 03:27:25 AM » |
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K&N lets in a lot of dirt, google the reports/testing even k&ns own testing proves this if one understands the SAE test they use. search for the spicer test. the oem filter is good for 20-30k miles, (changing at 12k is an industry std since the manufactures do not know what conditions a vehicle will be driven in like the 3k miles oil change only true about 10% of the time) and flows more than enough air to make 100 dyno hp on my bike. I have over 20k on my oem filter, no change in performance, mpg or plug reading.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Mildew
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Posts: 464
Live, Not Just Exist
Auburn, Ga
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2014, 03:34:48 PM » |
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The K&N didn't do anything for my diesel pickup either. Just let more dirt in.
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Live, Not Just Exist
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98valk
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2014, 03:43:48 PM » |
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The K&N didn't do anything for my diesel pickup either. Just let more dirt in.
http://home.roadrunner.com/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htmactual test showing how bad a K&N is. the K&N is a race track item that shouldn't be used on the street. www.bobistheoilguy.com plenty of oil analyisis results of high dirt levels when a K&N or one of the other cotton type filters are used.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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fudgie
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Posts: 10613
Better to be judged by 12, then carried by 6.
Huntington Indiana
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2014, 03:44:55 PM » |
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I have mine in.
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 Now you're in the world of the wolves... And we welcome all you sheep... VRCC-#7196 VRCCDS-#0175 DTR PGR
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Tropic traveler
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Posts: 3117
Livin' the Valk, er, F6B life in Central Florida.
Silver Springs, Florida
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2014, 06:19:28 PM » |
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I talked to a K&N rep several years ago about the pre-filter. He said that a K&N with the pre-filter flows roughly equal to a stock paper filter. I have had a K&N with pre-filter in my '97 & it does keep the air clean judging by lack of residue on the inside of the housing. Still do not trust any oiled gauze filter in turbocharged applications.
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'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer '13 F6B red for Kim '97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now! '98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B '05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B '99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B '05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!
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uturn
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« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2014, 04:30:09 AM » |
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hmmmm y'all got me thinkin that next wrench party i might throw a paper one back in there and see how it runs. i have the bare k&n, i put 38's in for slow jets and all my cool decel backfire went away. maybe the paper will lean it up just enough to reinstal my deceleration alarm?
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bentwrench
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« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2014, 05:56:13 AM » |
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I had a K+N in mine w/o pre filter for 25k miles.At that milage it had picked up less dirt than the stocker did at 10k.So I put an o.e. filter back in.About 12k miles later I sent an oil sample to blackstone along with some fleet samples from work.The lab gave a glowing report for the valk. stating wear metals were much lower than most engines let alone mtr/clutch/trans combo.One thing they made a note about was a silica level slightly higher than expected(dirt?)though not in the harmful range. I'm sticking with mother honda's filters,this one is a keeper. BW
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Hoser
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Posts: 5844
child of the sixties VRCC 17899
Auburn, Kansas
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« Reply #11 on: February 28, 2014, 07:49:43 AM » |
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I bought a half dozen oem filters cheep at a swap meet, all new and in the box, about 9 years ago. I have 2 of them left after 90,000 miles. I like em. Hoser 
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I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle  [img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/
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