|
VMODON
|
 |
« on: July 29, 2009, 10:57:49 AM » |
|
Had eng. issue during Inzane trip. Numerous times eng. seemed to run out of gas. This happened after running many hours, i warm weather, cool rain, lowalt. and at 10,000 ft. At first it seemed to correct after opening fuel cap, but on the way home, even that didn't work. Twice had to pull over and let it sit for a few minutes, then started up ok. Petcock rebuilt 6,000 miles ago. Is there a tilt safety switch that controls fuel flow?? and where is it Thanks In advance Don...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2009, 11:26:42 AM » |
|
Is there a tilt safety switch that controls fuel flow?? and where is it Thanks In advance Don...
No. it is a gravity feed system to the carbs. the petcock could be bad again even after 6k. search my posts about installing a snubber in the vacuum line. this will greatlly extend the life of the vacuum diaphragm. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
|
SCain
|
|
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2009, 11:31:01 AM » |
|
Had eng. issue during Inzane trip. Numerous times eng. seemed to run out of gas. This happened after running many hours, i warm weather, cool rain, lowalt. and at 10,000 ft. At first it seemed to correct after opening fuel cap, but on the way home, even that didn't work. Twice had to pull over and let it sit for a few minutes, then started up ok. Petcock rebuilt 6,000 miles ago. Is there a tilt safety switch that controls fuel flow?? and where is it Thanks In advance Don...
No tilt switch or anything like that unless you have added something. The fuel is stricktly gravity fed to the carbs, so I would check that vent line again to make sure there are no restrictions above and below the "T" in the line. Petcock screen could be partially blocked. Next time it happens, switch the petcock from on to reserve and see if anything changes. Also check the vac line from the petcock to #6. Check the easy stuff first. Good luck. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Steve  |
|
|
|
stude31
|
|
« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2009, 12:23:11 PM » |
|
VMODON,
I had a similar problem on the way to InZane going north on I-25 to Colorado Springs.
We were scoot'n along about 80 and I had two bars left on the gauge of my Interstate and it acted as if I ran out of gas. Was losing power and starving for fuel as it seemed. Sure enough I pulled to the shoulder and switched it over to reserve and Vroom! We took the next exit and filled up. I think I only put in 4 gallons of fuel??
I am going to assume that it was the gravity pull of the fuel that hampered getting fuel to the carbs. I blasted across Kansas on the way home and no problem. I had to switch to reserve once and the fuel bar was blinking so that was expected...
My .02
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2009, 12:46:28 PM » |
|
VMODON,
I am going to assume that it was the gravity pull of the fuel that hampered getting fuel to the carbs. I blasted across Kansas on the way home and no problem. I had to switch to reserve once and the fuel bar was blinking so that was expected...
your vacuum diaphragm is going bad. The added fuel created additional head pressure to fully open the bad v/d. my bike was doing the same thing acting like its out of gas fill it up doesn't take full amount rides fine. Gravity drainage is what pulls the fuel from the tank to the carbs. The V/D is constantly vibrating with extreme movement with every shift. Installing a snubber in the vacuum line will stop this from happening. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2009, 12:58:49 PM » |
|
This must be an epidemic, I'm having the same problems. I agree with CA, switching to reserve increases the head presssure and allows the gas to flow again. I'm working on a way to operate the Honda petcock without a vacuum and use a solenoid valve to shut off the fuel when the engine is off. If I perfect the petcock mod, I'll post it later. I rebuilt my petcock about six months ago and don't want to mess with it anymore. I want to make the petcock manual in order to keep the stock look and reserve capacity, but do away with the diaphram.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2009, 01:48:13 PM » |
|
I posted this a few months ago. http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/howto/tankvalve/tankvalve.htmlA snubber and end fittings in the vacuum line cost $12. search for my posts for source and part #s. no battery, no fuel, no go, use the KISS system. U never know when a battery will drop a cell. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2009, 03:12:19 PM » |
|
CA: Thanks for that link. That's exactly what I had in mind including using JB Weld to plug the holes. JB weld is documented as being gasoline proof. I'm currently soaking some cured JB Weld in gas now, just to be sure.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
|
|
Kingbee
Member
Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
|
|
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2009, 08:34:03 PM » |
|
I put in the Dan-Mark electric fuel valve, but disabled the vacuum part of the petcock an easier way. After removing the cover assembly, I took the spring that holds the diaphram & seat closed in the absence of vacuum, and put it on the other side of the diaphram to hold it open. That eliminates having to seal anything up with JB weld or whatever. For grins, I ran a vacuum line between the vacuum nipple and the bottom vent port.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
|
|
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2009, 05:47:56 AM » |
|
Kingbee: Another fine idea! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
|
|
Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
|
|
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2009, 07:04:32 AM » |
|
Well, there is a bank angle sensor but I would doubt that is your problem.. Your problem is more than likely a fuel delivery issue.. Just make sure the vent line is unobstructed including the 'T' , that the vacuum line to the petcock is in good condition and that the petcock is working correctly.. My guess would be a defective petcock.. There is an easy way to convert your petcock to manual operation[just switching diaphram and spring around] and that should be in the archives from about 10 or 11years ago.. Usually just installing a Pingle eliminates these problems..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Chrisj CMA
|
|
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2009, 07:48:17 AM » |
|
my .02. If you have already rebuilt the vacuum side of the petcock, the trouble can be (probably is) the fuel switch side....thats what happened to me. I tried rebuilding the vacuum side again and it was to no avail.
The real answer (IMHO) is to get rid of the OEM petcock altogether and replace with aftermarket quality part like has been mentioned or Pingel.
Yes it is going to be an epidemic because of the age of our bikes.........I recommend to everyone just to change it out now and dont worry about it. To buy a new OEM is close to or over $100 depending on source so just spend the $50-$80 on a quality part
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
Kingbee
Member
Posts: 486
VRCC# 576
Northern Illinois
|
|
« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2009, 08:54:23 AM » |
|
I agree the snubber is a good idea to extend diaphram life, but as our rubber parts age, a 10 year or so replacement cycle of the rubber parts is a good idea, including the O rings on the fuel side. What the heck, it's a $10 per year expense to just replace the petcock at that rate.........
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
98valk
|
|
« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2009, 09:09:31 AM » |
|
I agree the snubber is a good idea to extend diaphram life, but as our rubber parts age, a 10 year or so replacement cycle of the rubber parts is a good idea, including the O rings on the fuel side. What the heck, it's a $10 per year expense to just replace the petcock at that rate.........
the age of the rubber means nothing if the material was spec'd correctly in the first place. Case in point I have a 1987 prelude with 120k. This engine has many vacuum hoses, till this day all are original and are showing no signs of cracking and still look relatively new. I think most of us here remember the paper hoses the big 3 put on our cars back in the '70s and '80s. Was it cost cutting back then, yes, but it was also the availablity of materials in the '70s. Todays materials are much better. And there is no underhood heat to deal with on the bikes. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
|
|
|
|
