new battery every 2 years

[Shelly]

hey fellow valk riders, my name is chuck and both me and my wife shelly have our own valks. bec ause im lazy I chose to use the web account she has set up. anywho my problem is that my 2001 interstate needs a new battery every 2 years and I don't understand why. when we put the bikes away in an un-heated storage trailer for 3 months or so, I always connect a trickle charger to each bike. I do not leave them plugged in for the entire 3 months. what I do is charge the batteries for about a week then pull the plug for 2 weeks or so, then repeat until winter is over. this year my valk started right up for several rides and then today took a dump on me. again the battery is only 2 years old. should I take the battery out in the future and charge it at home? also who knows the best and cheapest on-line company that I can order a new battery. I understand that I have to fully charge it before I install it in the bike. as always, thanks for your help.

[Gavin_Sons]

Leave them plugged in all winter. Sounds like too much draining and charging and making your batter die prematurely.  My interstate needs to be on a charger if it sits any longer than 2 weeks, I try to get in the habbit of plugging it in every time Im done riding but doesn't always work out that way.

[Challenger]

The battery in my 99 I/S lasted 8 years until some idiot left the key on accessory after setting the clock. The battery in my 2000 STD was ten years old when I took it out and put it in my generator (still starts the gen) I unhook my ground when stored. I found the I/S would run the battery down in a two to three weeks if not disconnected. Just my experience, others use a tender and get along fine. I buy Yuasa when I can.

[Chrisj CMA]

This may or may not apply, but....If you buy a new battery and fill it up with acid it will have an initial charge.  Some people put it in the bike directly (without properly charging it) and they think the alternator will finish it.  I HAD to do this once and the battery lasted somewhere between one and two years................

[Gavin_Sons]

This may or may not apply, but....If you buy a new battery and fill it up with acid it will have an initial charge.  Some people put it in the bike directly (without properly charging it) and they think the alternator will finish it.  I HAD to do this once and the battery lasted somewhere between one and two years................

 

[sandy]

You wrote "Trickle Charger" .. That's not the same as a smart charger. A TC will cook your battery or shorten it's life. I get 5-7 years out of a battery, but I ride year round. If you want a smart charger: get a CTEK 3300.  www.CTEK.com ... Amazon has the best price I can find.

[Gryphon Rider]

When storing, take it out of your bike. Either put a SMART (not trickle) charger on it, or put an overnight trickle charge on it once every 4 weeks, disconnecting between charges.

[old2soon]

There IS a constant draw on an I/S. The clock. BUT I DON'T know if it's enough of a draw to run the battery down in 2 or 3 weeks of the bike not running. My I/S has sat 2-2 and a 1/2 weeks and I have NOT had any issue with it starting. And have not used a battery tender. RIDE SAFE.

[salty1]

You wrote "Trickle Charger" .. That's not the same as a smart charger. A TC will cook your battery or shorten it's life. I get 5-7 years out of a battery, but I ride year round. If you want a smart charger: get a CTEK 3300.  www.CTEK.com ... Amazon has the best price I can find.

My experience has also been that trickle chargers cook the battery and shorten it's life. I believe HDL has a sale on batteries right now. I've had very good luck YUASA's smart charger.

http://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUA1200901-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000GZL29M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396400871&sr=8-1&keywords=yuasa+battery+charger

[vanagon40]

Kind of like a car tire or oil discussion.  You will find people who swear by battery tenders and folks who swear at them.

My advice is to buy a high quality battery and forget the tender.  If you are going to store the bike for any period of time, remove the battery and store it in a location that does not drop below freezing.  My Valkyrie battery started the bike just fine after three or four months idle (no tender or charger, left hooked to my 2001 Standard, stored with minimal heat to keep my garage generally above freezing).  But my SilverWing battery was dead as a hammer under identical conditions.  I blame the minor current draw for the radio and a cheaper battery.

[Len]

As it has been said, connect a smart charger and relax, ride without worrying about the battery so much.

I use a smart charger on my bikes with alarms year round because they have a constant draw (alarms) if they are not ridden daily. The Valk does well since it sees regular use.  Removing batteries is more trouble than connecting a smart charger...works for my wife's truck too.

[BF]

Leave them plugged in all winter. Sounds like too much draining and charging and making your batter die prematurely.  My interstate needs to be on a charger if it sits any longer than 2 weeks, I try to get in the habbit of plugging it in every time Im done riding but doesn't always work out that way.

^^^^THIS^^^^

You need two Battery Tenders instead of two trickle chargers. 

Put them on, leave them on and forget them untill the spring thaw. 

They detect voltage drop and keep your battery charged and conditioned all winter.  They won't over charge your battery and they won't let the voltage drop to harmfull levels.

[gordonv]

My first thought also was the battery charger you are using.

But I was also thinking instead of buying another cheap battery, buy one of the Lithium Iron ones. Amazon had it for less than $300. Only a 1% drain per month, when not being used. Oh, and that was for the larger CCA than stock. Also only about 2 lbs.

[Hoser]

I got aa good deal with this one.  Free shipping.  Hoser 
http://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx14-bs-agm-maintenance-free-battery.html

[Patrick]

You say the bike started and ran fine the first couple times this year and then failed to start ?
What do you mean when you say it wouldn't start ? It would turn aver but not fire, or, not even turn over?
This kinda sounds to me like you may have an alternator issue, or, maybe a dirty start switch.

I don't see a need to remove the batteries unless it makes you feel better and I don't see the need to keep charging the battery. An overnight trickle charge every couple months is all that needed. I was kinda upset when I only got 11 years out of the original battery.

[TDL]

I had the same problem and now leave battery tender pluged in all the time, same battery 8 years

[Shelly]

Wow Hoser, great lead for a new battery. I just ordered one on-line. 50 bucks, no tax and free shipping. one question, when the battery arrives since it is sealed, does it still need a charge before being installed in the bike.

[old2soon]

Wow Hoser, great lead for a new battery. I just ordered one on-line. 50 bucks, no tax and free shipping. one question, when the battery arrives since it is sealed, does it still need a charge before being installed in the bike.

     I'm GUESSING yes BUT read the directions that come with the battery.  And NEVER EVER fergit-when all else fails read the directions!!  RIDE SAFE.

[Patrick]

Sometimes you just wonder why. I'm pretty tired of asking questions that go unanswered.

[Shelly]

sorry pat, did not mean to ignore you.  had to go visit the dr. what happened is it started right up for my ride, then I only got 5 minutes into the ride when I stopped to talk to a friend who was working on his truck. I turned the key off and shot the breeze for 10 minutes. turned the key on hit the starter switch and nothing. I mean nothing no clicking, no starter, no radio, and no display on my panel. checked everythinh like kill switch, netural, kickstand up. pulled out the jumper cables, hooked them up and varoom, started right up. went for a 30 minute ride to my destination, shut it off and tried to re-start and nothing. called a friend for another hot shot which worked again and put it away. took the battery out and took it to a pep boys where they tested it in the back and told me it was toast. would they tell you it was ok, I doubt it. so that's where I am now, waiting for my new battery to come in mail. if this dosent sound like a dead battery please give me your thoughts. thanks again.

[Farther]

if this dosent sound like a dead battery please give me your thoughts. thanks again.

Maybe rehab. the starter switch too.

[R J]

Shelly, 3 things.

1.   Fully charge that battery before ya put it in the bike.  READ the instructions that comes with it to assure you do it correctly.   The initial charge is critical.

2.   Give that Trickle charger a kick out into the trash can.   Not good to maintain a battery.    They are just like some Battery Tenders.   They FRY the battery.

3.   Go buy online a Ctek 3000.  Looks like it has been replaced with a CTEK 3300.   I have 2 that get used the year around and no more fired batteries.    1 goes on my Valkyrie Trike, the other one get aleternated between the Lawn mower tractor and my Chevy Trike.

Have not fried a battery since 7/11/2009.   I gave $65.00 for them.   Bought them a year apart.    Wanted to make sure it would not fry the Valkyrie battery.  It didn't so I bought another one for the Chevy Trike.

Here is their European outlet. 

http://www.ctek.com/

[Patrick]

sorry pat, did not mean to ignore you.  had to go visit the dr. what happened is it started right up for my ride, then I only got 5 minutes into the ride when I stopped to talk to a friend who was working on his truck. I turned the key off and shot the breeze for 10 minutes. turned the key on hit the starter switch and nothing. I mean nothing no clicking, no starter, no radio, and no display on my panel. checked everythinh like kill switch, netural, kickstand up. pulled out the jumper cables, hooked them up and varoom, started right up. went for a 30 minute ride to my destination, shut it off and tried to re-start and nothing. called a friend for another hot shot which worked again and put it away. took the battery out and took it to a pep boys where they tested it in the back and told me it was toast. would they tell you it was ok, I doubt it. so that's where I am now, waiting for my new battery to come in mail. if this dosent sound like a dead battery please give me your thoughts. thanks again.

Its not just you Shelly, many questions go unanswered/ignored.

But, back to your problem. As asked, have you checked the alternator output ?  Have you checked the starter switch ?

[sandy]

Amazon's site: http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-12-Volt-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396483330&sr=8-2&keywords=ctek+battery+charger

Shelly, 3 things.

1.   Fully charge that battery before ya put it in the bike.  READ the instructions that comes with it to assure you do it correctly.   The initial charge is critical.

2.   Give that Trickle charger a kick out into the trash can.   Not good to maintain a battery.    They are just like some Battery Tenders.   They FRY the battery.

3.   Go buy online a Ctek 3000.  Looks like it has been replaced with a CTEK 3300.   I have 2 that get used the year around and no more fired batteries.    1 goes on my Valkyrie Trike, the other one get aleternated between the Lawn mower tractor and my Chevy Trike.

Have not fried a battery since 7/11/2009.   I gave $65.00 for them.   Bought them a year apart.    Wanted to make sure it would not fry the Valkyrie battery.  It didn't so I bought another one for the Chevy Trike.

Here is their European outlet. 

http://www.ctek.com/

[Shelly]

no pat, I haven't checked those things, unfortunately im not very good with wrenches. im smart enough to guess what the problem could be, but when I take things apart they never work correctly again. luckily I have a friend who is a car mechanic and also owns a valk. so im in good hands.

[olddog1946]

Next time you've got your girl running, put a meter on the battery and see what kind of voltages your getting at maybe 2000rpm.. If it isn't above 13 volts, you've got alternator problems or some bad connections.

[cookiedough]

cheapest battery I found and one of the best is Yuasa got on amazon.com last spring.

I prefer to take all batteries out of my ATV's and cycles/scooter every late fall when done riding.  It only takes 1-2 minutes each and store in basement on a piece of carpet or floormat but charge right away on 1 amp trickle charger for 4-6 hours then let sit for the cold WI winters.  I learned my lesson leaving atv batteries in them in cold WI winters for 2-3 months and shortens life from say 5-6 years to only 2 possibly 3 years if lucky.  Then right before putting back in re-charge on 1 amp trickle charger another 4-6 hours or so to make sure fully charged.   Once volt tester reads after charging and letting sit for a few hours over say 12.6, good to go.   A new battery should be 12.7 to 12.9 volts.  I can get the toys to start on a battery with 12.35 or so volts but under say 12.3, best to start looking for a new battery soon. 

[PAVALKER]

 I just filled up an old (5 yo) "new" unused battery, that was waiting on the shelf, with acid and put it on the tender last night for install in the Valk.  The one in the Valk is over 5 years old, but runs down quickly.  I also installed a Voltage meter on the fairing dash, connected to my LED lights so I can periodically check voltage and alternator output (switched on with LED light switch)  For those that have a power port on the font bars there are voltmeters on eBay for 5bucks or less that you can plug in your power port and keep an eye on the battery/voltage status.

I got aa good deal with this one.  Free shipping.  Hoser  
http://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx14-bs-agm-maintenance-free-battery.html

I  believe I have ones similar to that in my 2 antique bikes.. And those stay on tenders.  Have not had or used long enough to get good info on it.  Please keep us posted on how that battery works out over time.


Note... I did just swap batteries and although I didn't check for a date stamp on the newer Yuasa installed, the old one I removed had a stamped date of 10 98 on the bottom of the  Yuasa.   The lettering on the front was pinkish, not white and it was sealed quite differently than the one I just added acid to...like a factory seal.  Makes me  wonder if this was or is an OEM installed battery on my 99 IS.... Making it 14 or 15 years old. The short sides of this battery are a little sucked in.   I have used a tender on it for the last 5 or 6 years during winter months.  Gotta say Yuasa has been good for me in the bikes I have used them in.

[Shelly]

ok, so here is the follow up. new battery arrived yesterday, checked voltage and it was 12.9 not bad. hooked my charger to it and after an hour or so it said it was done. at that point the  voltage was 13.8. threw it in the bike and started right up. didn't have the volt meter with me so I could not check the output while running but I will. drove the bike for about 30 minutes, stopped and got my first tank of fresh fuel and took her home. keep my fingers crossed.

[R J]

ok, so here is the follow up. new battery arrived yesterday, checked voltage and it was 12.9 not bad. hooked my charger to it and after an hour or so it said it was done. at that point the  voltage was 13.8. threw it in the bike and started right up. didn't have the volt meter with me so I could not check the output while running but I will. drove the bike for about 30 minutes, stopped and got my first tank of fresh fuel and took her home. keep my fingers crossed.

Shelly, leave the Battery Tender off of it and see how long it lasts.

My Battery Tenders had a tendency to fry my batties though a winter.

Currently all 4 of them are in the Land fill here probably about 300 ft down.

Where they are putting trash now was a low spot in a large field.    Now it is above the surrounding knolls and has a tendency to look like a large mole hill.....

[salty1]

ok, so here is the follow up. new battery arrived yesterday, checked voltage and it was 12.9 not bad. hooked my charger to it and after an hour or so it said it was done. at that point the  voltage was 13.8. threw it in the bike and started right up. didn't have the volt meter with me so I could not check the output while running but I will. drove the bike for about 30 minutes, stopped and got my first tank of fresh fuel and took her home. keep my fingers crossed.

Shelly as your going down the road, a voltage reading at the battery with a "healthy" charging system should be right at 14.3 volts.

[Shelly]

well I only have a hand held digital volt meter tester, so going down the road dosent sound like a good option. however I will rev it up to 3000 rpm while I test the voltage. that's the best I can do.

[salty1]

Definitely at 3000 rpm you should measure 14.3 volts or there abouts. Sorry, I should have been more realistic in my response. I have a volt meter on my Valks and they put out that voltage going down road

[Moonshot_1]

I replaced the battery in my bike last year. As far as we could tell, this was the original factory battery.
It's a 99 tourer. I didn't replace it because it was dead. It started the bike just fine. I just thought it would be a good idea to get a new one in there as I read a weak battery can damage the alternator.

The old battery I managed to completely kill it no less than 3 times. Left key on for 8 hrs+ and such. No lights, no start.
Nearly killed it half dozen times. Light up won't start.

In these cases an hour on a trickle charger and we'd start up and be on the road.

I have never put that old on a battery tender of any kind in the off season.

Filled it with gas (the bike not the battery) add stabil, throw a cover over it in the unheated garage.

Can't recall a time where it didn't start when I got it out for the first ride of the season but if it didn't, a short trickle charge seemed to be all it would need.

The new battery did make a difference. Starts a bit faster. So I'm glad I replaced it last year.

I do agree with the consensus that you are frying the battery with the way you are charging it up and that is leading to premature failure.

Also agree with the thought that what is needed is a high quality battery. At most I would remove it and store it in a temperate area indoors. But my opinion is that you don't even have to do that.

The worse that would happen is that you would replace the battery every 2 years and you are doing that now.

Shoot, my wife's bike was stored in the garage since mid October. No battery tender, no nothing. Just a full tank of gas and stabil and in an unheated garage in NW Iowa.
Went and took the cover off last Saturday and it took three hits on the starter button and away she went. Fired right up.